If you have access to a milling machine you could MAKE a bolt with relative ease. Look closely at the Bizon bolt pics - you'll see that the tube on top is actually press-fit into the bolt body! The obviously took the easy route and machined the bolt out of a solid block then installed the tube after the mill work was done. Pretty simple when you think about it! Looks like the charging handle was installed afterwards as well, hard to tell.
Hardening would be the only concern, you'd need to harden the area around the bolt face.
Hey, I like that! The extractor is also simpler than the EOD bolt, and you wouldn't have to build a welding fixture.
Thanks for posting those.
Looks a lot like a G3 extractor doesn't it :) That whole setup reminds me of my Uzi bolt. Were Uzi parts still dirt-cheap I'd entertain the thought of machining one down to fit AK rails and weld a tube to the top!
The ejector groove would be my only concern. It looks like they cut it right up to the firing pin hole. I'm not sure if it would affect the action if it actually cut into the firing pin hole. Probably would if you had a spring-loaded firing pin. That pin looks HUGE for 9mm. Due to the risk of slam fires (however remote) I'd make that a spring-loaded pin.
Do you think that hardening only the face of the bolt area would be enough? You are talking blowback after all. I wonder if it would be adequate to heat that area orange-hot then quench... if you have a milder steel that may be all it needs?
The bolt on my MAC-11 isn't hardened, it's just plain cast iron. I think I'll try plain old 1018 and see what happens. If it starts looking beaten-up, I'll recut it, adjust the headspace, and case-harden it.
Like someone told me when I started, "remember it's not precision machine work, it's an AK-47."
Thanks for the pics.
I think the extractor would be the hardest part, for me at least. Might have to get a scrap piece of steel and tinker with it.
I've got all the Bizon pics up here:
Any extractor will work, so long as you reshape it. Thinking about it, all you really need is a cross-pin to act as the hinge and a spring on the back end. A disconnector spring would be a convenient spring to use. You'll have to drill the bolt for the cross pin, but I would say to put it in place and THEN drill both of them at once. That way you don't have to worry about holes lining up. That would be the hard part to me :)
If you have an old AMD-65 cleaning kit laying around, you could use that little wrench and cut it to shape with a dremel. That's some hard steel! It may be just a little on the thin side however.
Other options are to modify a G3/CETME extractor to work. Heck for that matter, you may be able to use one of the FA AK parts as a donor and just be creative and dremel it to shape! That would make for a wider extractor to grab the rims. I think any chunk of good hard metal you have laying around would work. I wouldn't use mild steel to make it but I'll bet we all have a large enough chunk of scrap in the shop to make up a few of them. That's one item I'd keep a spare.
Try automotive leaf springs for a handy heat treated steel for extractors. One leaf will provide a life-time supply of extractors. Carve them out with an angle grinder equipped with a thin cut-off type blade. You can even mill and drill the stuff with carbide. Keep the temp down with water routinely to protect the heat treat. Easy, fun, and cheap !!
Any updates from anyone doing a 2XTM 9mm build. I got ahold of a magwell (THanks Pat) and now I'm trying to find more build info. TIA,
Here's an old link to azhonkey 2xtm build.
Should help fill in the blanks.
The AK Files Forums - 9mm Drum-fed AK Pistol