vz61 reweld semi auto
started this build tonight.
it is a czech .32 cal automatic pistol. of course mine w/ be a semi auto version.first thing i did was to go to here and read up on history and get a schematic of a semi auto version.
i also downloaded a manual for a semi auto from somewhere, can't remember where, but i have one if anyone needs it. here is a manual to a fully auto version. it really helped me figured out what was not needed from f.a. to s.a.
full auto vz61 manual.
now when you get your parts kit, don't get overwhelmed by all the little bitty parts. the manual is very helpful in figuring out what is what and where it goes.
i got a plastic box w/ separaters that went from top to bottom, so when i knock it over, everything stays put. i listed the parts by name and # from manual. this really brings it all into perspective.
on to the fun, here is cut receiver.
here is what i hope it looks like when i'm done. i printed this out to scale so i can use it to help lay out overall length.
first thing i did was to grind off rivet, from the inside, holding trigger guard to receiver. next i took the first 2 pieces that incorporate the mag well into it and put them together w/ mag installed. this gave me an idea of how far apart they needed to be once mag was removed. before removal i measured gap at 2 points on one side w/ a mic. then i clamped the larger part to a piece of brass on the inside of receiver. made my measurements w/ smaller piece in place and clamped it to brass. i use the brass as a backing plate to keep inside of mag well from getting excessive weld material in it, and also to keep from blowing holes in receiver while welding. i also used a piece to span cut at receivers thicker end (bottom). i also used a longer piece as a straight edge to align the top of receiver pieces before welding. when done, i tried mag,(it fit), and flipped it over, repeating process on other side.
before i go any further, i must satisfy batf regs. below is the controller, (manual name), others call it f.a. sear. this fits into a slot in receiver.
i have to cut up and discard it. as well as remove the lug on side of hammer that ties into it's operation. and lastly, fill in the slot in receiver that controller rides in. below are the parts, unmodified. 2nd pic is of controller cut up and stub on hammer removed. 3rd pic is slot in receiver filled w/ cut controller piece and welded shut.
***** NOW, I AM NOT A LAWYER, NOR DO I PLAY ONE ON T.V., ALTHOUGH I DREAMNT I WAS BOB SHAPIRO ONCE...THESE ARE MY INTERPRETATIONS OF A MANUFACTURED SEMI AUTO BASED ON INFO I HAVE READ. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR FINDING OUT IF THIS IS A LEGAL, BATF APPROVED BUILD AND LEGAL IN YOUR LOCALITY.*****
other than that, i will weld a plate into slot on rear of receiver to deny folding stock.
that being said, if anyone sees an issue or notes that i left any steps out, please feel free to let me know. rick.
Very nice work !! Are you using a TIG torch ?? Small and delicate parts are a challenge to weld as they want to warp with the greatest of ease.
Thanks for the write up & pics
no viper, i'm using a lincoln 125hd mig, set just at 2 on speed and 2nd amp setting (b), using .035 flux core wire.
I did the spacing on the rear sections after fitting the mag. Inserting the pieces into the upper and using modeling clay to help retain the spacing helped.
The machining on the inside where the trigger assembly pin rides is tricky.
thanks for the tip, winn. so far, i've been lucky to have parts line up for setting dimensions.
got the third piece added to receiver. below are pics showing parts cleaned up and ready to clamp for welding. the fourth pic shows using the fixing plate, (holds in the trigger pin), to align the 2 sections.
i welded w/ backing and clamping as in the previous post. when welding thin metal, i use a pulse action on the trigger of the mig gun, letting molten metal cool and harden just a split second before adding more wire. metal goes from bright orange to dull, but never to black. this allows wire to start weld immediately instead of trying to get started through the outer flux coating that is left when weld cools to much. i really need to hook up my argon tank but it is a pain when i have welder on a job, up in trusses. then i cleaned it up. i tried to give it the same definition as original while still leaving some excess metal over weld areas.
the inside still needs to be cleaned up but i'll do that as necessary when fitting internals.
put together to set up last welds.
thanks to my wife for fixing the date on camera. :notworthy:
Looking real good! Nice work there. Just one tip, when you use brass as backing don't get to much heat. Then the brass can melt into the welds and make a color like a brass-soldering. And they will be less strong.
thanks sid. by using that pulse routine for the root pass, it lets me fill void w/o too much heat, then i go back over w/ a weave for 2nd pass at higher amperage, if needed.