Pirate, here are the pics
Not included are the springs and pins.. The trigger is in the lower forgot to pull it out for photos. I know I am definitely missing at least one pin. There is no pin small enough for the striker release (little piece in the last photo)
Is this one of your sets? Cause I cant figure out the trigger coil spring...
Curious minds want to know! I'm trying to figure out which FCG to order.
Question, why do the threads have to be turned down on the barrel. Would it be impractical to thread the receiver and time the barrel accordingly?
Yes the receiver could be threaded, but it's the timing thing that most people would have trouble with or don't want to pay someone to do it, it's just easier to make it a press fit.
I would think with all the other firearms that require timing this would be the same. I can't help but wonder if someone somewhere in the reverse engineering of semi-auto RPD receivers preferred to be lazy and everyone else ran with it?
I was wondering the same thing about the threaded barrels.
I guess when it is said they have to be timed, this refers to the position of the barrel in the receiver when it is headspaced correctly. Then the cut for the extractor would have to be marked and then the barrel removed and the cut in the barrel made, then screwed back into the receiver.
Could anyone tell me if this is correct?
I'm guessing you have a new barrel?
If you do and there's nothing cut or drilled (gas port, ect) it's a lot easier to have a thread in barrel.
But yes your correct. Thread the receiver to match whats on the barrel, screw in the barrel and set head spacing, mark the barrel so you know what is top & bottom, then remeove it to cut the extractor groove and if it's easier to put on the other parts.
Now if the gas port is cut, you need to time/clock the barrel.