Well I played around with it some more yesterday, I wanted to get that RR file to try and send it to you but I misplaced my flash drive and that pc isn't on my network, I'll still get it later for you.
The only way I could get the RR thing to stay on the table was to reduce the X & Y scale that's next to the DRO, I changed it from 1.0 to .750
I did a couple cheesy videos and loaded them to YouTube
This one is just doing an air cut
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoxVK...0392 - YouTube
This one is the second cut of the RR at the .750 scale, you don't see much of the cut because of the sawdust, and you'll notice I forgot to turn on the mill at first :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ie3F82lpjTQ]P1000393 - YouTube
And this one I just reset the gcode and ran it through again just to see how close it would stay to the first cut, it looks like the X might have a little backlash
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdTy5ShUwEE]P1000396 - YouTube
Looks like the belt has play in it for the y axis. Looks like youre right about the x axis. If you have a dial indicator we can measure that and input it into machIII so it will compensate. Its been years since I have seen a clean mill. Looks kinda naked. I see you either got smart or got the led light idea from someone....
Congrates. Do you like ars? Depending on your tooling/fixture ability there are some interesting projects you can do..
I'll double check the Y belt, can't believe you can tell from that video. But then I don't have any tensioners on them either.
I'll also have to mess with the X more to see how much backlash there is or if I can get rid of it mechanically.
I might go direct drive on the table, I was worried about over working the motors before, but they don't seem like they are straining at all with this setup.
Yeah I remember you guys talking about the LED lights, that's a great addition, you can see mine were coming off (it's off now) but it held on there for almost a year with just some crazy glue. When I make the new motor mounts I also want to make a new collar for the Z and have the ball screw attached to that and put in a groove for the light strip to set in.
LOL clean mill. The only reason it's clean is because it hasn't been used since I took it apart :D
Yeah I like the AR platform, actually I like most firearms
So what's a good, easy to use and cheap CAM program?
I got a CAD program I'm trying to learn, it seems like it's more then I'll ever need.
And I have to buy Mach3 yet, still using the demo version
Ill have to get a pic of my led z collar. Turbo is used by a lot of hobbiests but quite honestly machIII is the heat...
Maybe I'm a little confused about CAM programs, but I thought they were used to convert the CAD (or what ever) item into gcode, and mach3 just reads that code to tell the motors what to do?
Cad draws it and puts it out in a variety of differnt formats. Conversion programs (if not in g code) convert it. Cam runs the code on the machine.
Originally Posted by Coils
I originally had my Z set up similar to yours but had to change it do to the amount of backlash/slop in the rack and pinion gears. Have you noticed any hop in the cutter?
OK VZ, the CAM program is for the machine, so Mach is a CAM program, I got it now.
Holescreek I've only done a few cuts into that board in the videos so far, don't know how it will act with metal yet.
I did place a dial indicator on the Z and kept running it between .050" & .090" in both directions and there didn't seem to be any backlash, but that still doesn't tell me how it will hold up cutting something hard.
I want to make a setup with a ball screw, but I want to try and make a new collar for it once I figure out the programs better, thinking of putting the LED light strip in a groove and having the mounting area for the ballscrew and one of those flexible hose things for a mist system.
I'll have to look at mine closer but I don't know if I want to try mounting the screw right to the original collar like you did, mine looks different then yours.
Also I didn't want to do too many mods right away in case the CNC thing didn't work out, then I can put it back to a manual setup if I need to. But so far it looks like I'll continue with this project.
Can you give more details about your Z setup, mainly the ball nut & bearing? I just can't picture how the bearing(s) is setup in that.
I'm giving up on this for now, can't get it running right, motors on the table don't turn sometimes and it's not consistent on the distances of the moves. Wasted enough time for now, so putting it back to a manual machine, hopefully I'll get time to put something together with these parts to mess with it more later, like a small gantry table for a router or plasma setup.