IF IT HAS THE SAME FIT AS THE OLDER GUNS AN IS RELIABLE IT SHOULD BE A GOOD GUN . I LIKE THE HUMP BACK RECIVER .
IM SURE THE PRICE IS GOING TO SCARE A LOT AWAY AN THERE ARE SOME REALLY GOOD AUTOS NOW LIKE BERATTA AN BINELLIE THAT ARE PROVEN GOOD. NOT TO MENTION THEY OL REMINGTON STANDARDS.
Bought a 10ga(!) double today that somebody sawed off. They installed a bead sight but did not finish the crown on the muzzles- does anybody have a suggestion on how to finish up nicely with common tools?
You can soft-solder a carefully fitted hourglass shaped piece of steel, but be very careful with heat. Otherwise you'll separate the barrels or rib. Then finish with cold blue.
Stuff some steel wool in that hole b4 soldering to catch some of the solder. Wait till you are done soldering b4 finishing with black magic or whatever finish you choose.
I've not used solder before. Do I want to leave a small gap around the edge of the hourglass-shaped piece I am fabricating (for the solder to fill)? Copy that on the steel wool and flat stone.
After you put the steel wool in the gap use lots of resin to tin existing metal. You may need to remove the bead on it to prevent problems. You may be able to get by with a good iron rather than torch on that metal.
I'd like to prevent a lot of solder buildup that has to be ground off because I'm planning on taking the hourglass piece to be engraved to match the rest of the gun
When doing cowboy action we used to fill in the gap with Brownells Acra glass gel dyed black mixed with atomized steel. I have a 12ga double that is done this way that has withstood thousands of rounds. Make sure you rough up the steel first. I used a needle file to get down in there about 2" deep.
Actually still wondering, but it needs something. I like the epoxy idea. I can rough up the inside, fabricate the piece longer than it is wide, have it engraved, stuff in steel wool, and then epoxy it in. I am starting to like this site! Good ideas!
LOL I WAS BASICALY ASKING NICELY TO SHOW IT WAS LEGAL WITH A PICTURE
ID JUST FILL IT WITH SOME SORT OF DARK FILLER. ID AVOID HEATING THE BARREL MUCH . I AGREE IT WPULD LOOK MUCH BETTE WITH A FILLER PIECE. WONDER IF THERE IS ANY WAY FOR THE BEAD TO HOLD IT IN.
POST A PIC WHEN DONE. A GUSS IF YOIU THINK ABOUT IT MOST SAWED OFF.S LIKEY EVERY HAD ANY THING DONE. HOW EVER A 18" FACTORY GUN WOULD
I wouldn't use steel wool at all. I bet there is a vent hole under the handguard, meaning the area between the barrels will always be exposed to air and moisture. The steel wool will rust quickly and start rust everywhere else. Plus, it will burn if the soldering flame gets to it. Soldering double barrels takes a fine touch. To be honest, I would find a cowboy gunsmith and send the barrels to him, then get the end nicely engraved. 10 guage doubles are not common and will keep the value if finished nicely. The epoxy would be my second choice. Whatever you do, add a drop or two of oil in the mentioned vent hole and let the barrels stand muzzle-down overnight. This will prevent rust, from the degreasing of the barrel in prep for the solder or epoxy.
Mr prototype is correct. From what I have read soldering doubles is tricky. Not that you couldnt do it, it just takes some practice. I used to visit an old school gunshop that did this kind of work. a guy brought in a double he had tried to solder and had the upper and lower ribs come lose for his troubles. The smith told me you have too clamp everything in place before applying heat. I would think that some heat stop paste would work in this case. Anyway, be sure to show us the finished gun.
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