I would not ditch it . I think a forward bolt set up is a good idea. you just ned some thing substantial between the bolt an the carrier .
the cut to install the bolt from the front end you can do with a grinder a sleave or block for the bolt steam could be done with a drill press the correct bit an grinder.
Any shop with a welder could do it for very little.
if you want the slot welded in send it to me ill do it. I think a well fitted block with a hole in it an groove cut with a cut off wheel could be done with minimal tools .
the ramp that extend forward to allow the carrier to ride over the rounds makes it a little challenging . id just grind it off an also square off the face were a block would fit an grind a bock to fit tht cant spin with the bolt installed an then drill it for the bolt while its in place . run a cut off wheel down it to make a grove for the extracter the bolt will keep the block in place . id make the block hold the bolt completely forward an then grind the back of the carrier to allow the hammer to strike. the block should be some type of steel that harder or can be hardend an you would have to do some fitting an chamfering were the bolt head would fit.
the bulgy carrier is cut away different on the lh side for some reason vs a akm x39 carrier possably to save weight its a good place to get a block installed .
Id weld the block in . I know what its like to work with minimal tools.
id be willing to weld up the slot for free . it will cost you to ship it.
were are you located ?? maybe there is a member close who can help
do you have a dremel or better yet a compressor an die grinder???
im trying to think what I have that I could make you a sleave out of that would be strong enough that id feel comfortable sending to you that you could just install with minimal fitting a cut to allow you to install the bolt from the front .
I have some old barrel stubs that cold be bored /drilled out. if the od is big enough that they could be fitted so they wont spin they might be just the ticket the stem is
.3455 so a 30 cal stub would work . I wish I knew the exact angle on the bolt head if I did it would be a easy lathe project an would not take my any time to do .
I hate to see any guy who was willing to turn barrel journals on a wood v blocks an afile an drill have to give up.
I have been looking at my bolt an carrier s all day an thinking hmmmmm.
the ramp for to ride the carrier over the shells is in the way imo an on a standard 7.62 carrer does not even stick out like on the bulgy 5.45 . imo it can be eliminated . id rather have a sleave there. so the rounds are not jumping up an down so much in the mag as the carrer rides over them .
you basically need a sleave about one inch long that has a .346 or so hole in a slot for the ejecter to run a way to keep from spinning . possably part of the protruding ramp could be left for a tap to index in a slot to stop spinning or a tang on the sleve to hit the carrer could be added . might need some milling or grinding to allow it to get through the feed lips on you mag.
if it were mine id weld the slot closed add a block between the bolt an carrier as well or build up the area were the bolt hits an then cut a slot to install the bolt from the front it would be a 10 minute job with a welder. if you want me to, id do it. free. I figure its the least I could do after spending 4 hours staring at this LOL
back when stuff was cheap guys just welded the bolt in . LOL I was never for that .
I came up with an idea that just might work take a piece of strong steel and cut out the shape in the first picture and screw it in place in the carrier after the bolt is installed in the carrier that will give more area for the bolt to rest against and prevent it from turning.
IMO A SCREW WILL NOT HOLD EVEN IF THE BLOCK IS TAKING UP THE RECOIL ITS GOING TO BREAK LOOSE .
IMO ASIDE FROM WELDING UP THE SLOT AN ALSO INCREASING THE AREA OF CONTACT ON THE BOLT HEAD THE OPTIONS ARE A STRONG SLEAVE ON THE STEM OR A MUCH BIGGER BLOCK TIGHTLY FITTED HELD IN PLACE BY THE BOLT STEM .
WITH NO WELDER ID MAKE A BLOCK TO FILL THIS AREA IN HTE WHITE AN ID MAKE THE SEM PASS THROUGH IT . I WOULD SQUARE OFF THE CARRIER TO MAKE FITTING IT EASIER . YOUR TALKING ABOUT THOUSSANDS OF PONDS OF POSSABLE BOLT THRUST ON INITAL IMPACT.
ID BASICALY TRIM OFF THE RAMP THATIS NOT NEEDED SQUARE CARRER AN WELD IN A BLOCK THAT THE BOLT HEAD WOULD HIT ID DRILL THROUGH THE BOLT HOLE IN THE CARRER AN THEN CHAMFER IT TO FIT THE BOLT HEAD. BASICALY ID EXTEND THE CARRER FORWARD TO MEET THE BOLT.
YOU MIGHT GET AWAY WITH OUT WELDING IT IN BUT ID FIND SOME ONE WHO CAN WELD AN PAY A FEW BUCKS. A BLOCK JUSTON THE UNDER SIDE MIGHT WORK BUT GET THE BOLT HEAD INVOLVED .
I DONT LIKE JUST ONE SIDE OF THE BOLTS CONTACT AREA TAKING AL THE THRUST , ITS GOING TO TRY TO COCK AN IF IT RIDES UP IT MIGHT BIND AN BREAK THE BOLT STEM . AGAIN I HAVE SEEN ONE FAIL .
BTW IT WAS A LARGE STEM X39 BOLT AN CARREIR THAT FILED IN CUT IN NOTCH FURTHER BACK IT WOULD STILL HAVE MORE STRENGTH THAN JUST WLEDING UP THE SLOT .
WHAT ABOUT PUTTING THE BOLT IN THE REAR WARD POSITION AN MOVING THE CHARGE HANDEL BACK AN REMOVING THE AREA BEHIND THE HANDEL UNTILL IT MAKES A STOP WERE YOU NEED IT ON THE TRUNION??????
I THINK ITS TIME TO GET WELDER YOU OBVIOUSLY COULD USE ONE AN FOR ABOUT $100 YOU CAN GET ONE TO DO THE BASIC STUFF. SOME OF THOSE TIGS THAT DO STEEL ONLY WOULD WORK. THERE IS NOT A AUTO REPIAR SHOP OR MACHINE SHOP OR FARMER NEAR BY????? ARE THERE ANY GUYS WHO RACE CARS AROUND ????
WERE DO YOU LIVE????
I am going with my idea I don't have the money for a welder and would not know how to use one if i did. I know how to use a lathe and a mill but my dad has heart problems and had to sell all his equipment and with the limited tools i have this is my only option so we will see how it goes. I have made the block I am now fitting it to the carrier I will post pics when i get it done. I live in a small town in Tennessee and all the garages that would do welding have shut down.
Here is a picture of the block installed in the carrier
GOOD LUCK WITH THE SCREW HOLDING YOUR BOLT STOP IN PLACE.
There will not be any pressure on the screw it is just there to keep the block from falling out the block will not move forward or backwards it is contact with the carrier in the front and back.
ID MAKE THE HOLE FOR THE SCREW BIGGER SO THERE IS NO THRUST ON IT.
I UNDERSTAND WHAT YOUR TRYING TO DO. I THINK THE PLATE WILL DEVELOP PLAY EVENTULAY AN COME LOOSE. ITS GOING TO COMPRESS SOME EVEN IF ITS TEMPERD.
WITH ALL THE SLOP THAT THE BOLT TO CARRRIER HAVE IT IMPOSSABLE TO HAVE ONLY REAR WARD THRUST ON THE PLATE YOUR MAKING . I THINK IT WILL TRY TO LIFT OUT OF THERE AN BREAK WHAT EVER SCREW YOU USE.
ITS YOU IDEA GO FOR IT ID RECOMEND YOU STRING FIRE IT A BUNCH AN KEEP A REALLY CLOSE EYE ON IT . I REALLY WISH I HAD A PIC OF OF THE ONE I SAW THAT FAILED IF YOU SAW HOW IT HAMMERD THE SLOT YOU WOULD SEE WERE IM COMING FROM.
THE OFFER TO WELD IT FREE WILL STILL STAND IF IT FAILS OR DOESENT WORK OUT . OTHERS HERE KNOW ME AN CAN VOUCHE THAT IM NOT A CROOK.
AFTER ALL THIS THINKING IM CONSIDERING DOING A BLOW BACK PISTOL WITH A SHORT BARREL ON A ONE OF MY BOLTS AN CARRERS . ILL HAVE THE BAREL PUSHED BACK . IF I DO THIS ILL JUST MOVE THE CHARGIN HANDEL AN THE ARE BEHIND IT AN RUN THE BOLT AGAINST THE CARRIER . ILL ADD A BUSHING ONHTE REAR OF THE CARRIER TO SUPPORT THE STEM . I HAVE A MILL AN LATHE SO ITS A LOT EASIER OF COURSE. WITH THE COST/VALUE OF THE PARTS THESE DAYS I MAY JUST MAKE A BOLT /CARRIER ASSEMBLY FROM SCRATCH .
ILL USE THICKER LOWER RAILS AS WELL ON A CUSTOM RECIVER . JUST TO MAKE IT EASIER TO MACHINE THE CARRIER SLOTS .
yes the hole in the block is bigger than the screw so it does not touch the screw i appreciate the offer but i don't have the money to ship it to you i will let you know how it does when i get it finished thanks for all the advice.
good project here...but you guy's are making my small brain bend...I wish I had as much knowledge and skill as you two!
can't wait to see the finished project...good luck...hope it work's well for you.