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Polish Blank Question

5K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  Coils 
#1 ·
Recently ordered a couple of Polish Blanks for an AK build.

Both were heavily Belt Sanded on all the flat surfaces and the ends were visibly curved as the part was obviously not applied or removed from the Belt Sander evenly.

Measured random parts and some spots were as low as .024".

I for one would not use a Belt Sander on sheet metal. In particular on Firearm components and especially on thin Sheet Steel.

Has anyone else who bought these Blank receivers had Belt Sanded ones ?

The ones I got from Curtis, at AK Builder were perfectly clean, unsanded and pristine, as is typical of his stuff, but he ran out of stock at one point, so I ordered a couple elsewhere.

Advice/opinion please . Go ahead and Heat treat or return ? , or get a refund. Safety is paramount.
 
#3 ·
There are a couple of threads regarding the different polish blanks out there. We came up with at least 3 different versions being sold right now. The one with the sanded surface was deemed least desirable. They are apparently made from a different grade of steel than the others and there have been some heat treating issues with them.
Stick with the ones from AK-builder or Copes.
 
#8 ·
Member here Dark Knight sells some blanks that are hardened.

Parts For Sale
 
#11 ·
I ordered four Polish AKM receivers from copes on the first day they offered them. I was bewildered upon opening the package. Why are they sanded ? To remove the surface rust ? The receiver ends have a radius as they were not sanded flat. I guess you get what you pay for. Definitely not finished they way I expected.

AK M
 
#12 ·
Sanded? the ones I received are not sanded but do have a rather odd lateral maks in the sides of the outer shell. I assumed roll marks from the manufacturing and that final prep would be used to buff this down. Dunno., no evidence of sanding on the two I have.
 
#15 ·
THER COPES BENT SHELLS ARE NOT SANDED LIKE THAT . I HAVE THE TANTAL ONE AN THE STANDARD THERE NOT SANDED.

I HAVE A SANDED ONE FROM ELSEWERE .

IN THE OTHER THREAD IT WAS DETERMINED THERE ARE AT LEAST THREE VERSIONS OF THE STANDARD.. THE STAMPS VARY ON THE SANDED ONES.

THE ONLY WAY YOUR GOING TO KNOW WHAT YOU GOT IS TRY TO TEMPER ONE AN SEE .
 
#18 ·
If you're to heat treat the entire Receiver, which I read is recommended for the polish ones, the cost is this , in my case at least.

First couple from AK Builder at 32.95Ea +11.48 shipping =77.38.
Shipping to Dark Knight : Heat Treat 2 rec. =61.70
Add shipping 10.00
Add Return Shipping 10.25
Total : 159.33 _____Without Rails


Buy straight from Dark Knight , Less effort, 159.95 inc shipping PLUS Polish
Rails Included.
 
#19 ·
SO ITS PER PAIR $160???

HMMMM 5 MONTHS AGO I WAS BUYING NDS BLEAMS WITH THE TRUNION HOLES SLIGHTLY OFF FOR $65 AN IF THEY CATCH UP A THERE UNDER $100 EACH AN THERE LEGAL TO RESELL AN ARE COMPLETLY BUILT AN PHOSFATED. EXPENSIVE YES BUT COMPOARED TO A TEMPOERED FLAT AT $75 AN UNDONE THERE A BARGIN .

THE COPES BLAMNK WAS $21 THE RAILS WERE $8 .

IMO A HOME MADE RECIVER IS NOT WORTH $75 ESPECIALY WHEN AKS THAT CAN BE SOLD ARE HITTING $700 AN WELL ABOVE THAT.

MY LAST RECIVER COST ME $10 TO MAKE WHILE NOT FULLY HEAT TREATED WILL LIKELY NEVER HAVE A ISSUE . MY 223 HAS OVER 5000 ROUNDS ON IT WITH ZERO ISSUES.

ITS A SHAME NO ONE (FFL) IS TAKING THESE POLISH BLANKS AN FINISHING THEM AN SELLIGN THEM AT $75- $80 . IT WOULD TAKE A GUY ABOUT 15 MINUTES EXTRA TO DRILL THE HOLES WITH A JIG AN SPOT WELD THE RAILS BEFORE THERE TEMPERED.

IM NOT SURE WHAT YOUR ACOMPLISHING WHEN YOU GO WELDING ON A TEMPERED RECIVER AN SCREWING WITH IT AROUND THE WELD AREAS. MIGHT BE A SPOT WERE IT WILL CRACK ??? LIKELY NOT BUT YOUR DEFIANATLY AFFECTING THE TEMPER WERE YOU WELD AN WORTH MENTIONING .

ILL ADMITT I WELD IN FULLY TEMPRED RAILS ONTO A A UNTEMPRED RECIVER WITH NO ISSUES .

I WISH I WAS ZONED TO RUN A SHOP ON MY PROPERTY ID BE LOOKING AT OPTIONS.

DOES ANY ONE EVEN HAVE THE POLISH BLANKS IN STOCK AT A REASONABLE PRICE ANY MORE?????? THEY WERE AT $19 EACH FOR A WHILE .

I GOT THREE BLANKS TO BUILD YET AN ILL POSTIF THERE ARE ANY DIFFERANCES NOTED ON THE SANDED VS THE UNSANDED.
 
#23 ·
Very Valid comment. Wish I'd not bothered with the blanks at the moment and left well alone.

Yep, Big screw up. First time using paper templates. As careful as can be, printed at 1:1 scale, measured each Hole on template etc etc.

Drilled Hammer and trigger to high. A little Pi**** right now, probably just scrap metal I suppose. Oh well.
 
#22 ·
To clarify my post (#11) the AKM Polish shells I received have a Brushed finish same as the picture in post # 13. The sides at the front are sanded to the extent they are .004"-.008" thinner and leaving a noticeable taper in the thickness of the shell. The shell measures .039" (1mm) in the center. Just my observation.
 
#25 ·
I did the same thing with my first one I bought Pullthru. I ordered 2 more from Curtis and figured that I would use the messed up one as a practice piece once I finally get a hold of a spot welder. I bought the drilling fixture after the first screw up and drilled the holes in the blank that I used the template on, got me some eggs on that receiver. I bought one with the intention of building a Polish underfolder on it, thought it would be cool to have an almost complete Polish rifle. The dang kits went from $200 to $450, seems I hold off on something and it moves further out of my reach.
 
#27 ·
Hi I'm new here so this is my first post. I built my first ak with one of the polish blanks. I used a template everything seemed to end up in the right spot when I put it together, my tapco retaining plate held the fcg in and the safety held it in. But then I noticed problems when cycling the action. The hammer seemed like it was too high the bolt would not close until I ground it down a little. And once that was fixed I had to grind the hammer where it was held by the disconnecter because it wouldn't release the hammer to the trigger. From what I'm reading here I guess concerns like this are normal using these blanks? I have two more I want to use and really want to make sure I don't have to fine tune everything to get my gun to work.
 
#28 ·
Hi Mopar,

I understand that they do the same things to a greater or lesser extent at Tula and every other AK Factory in the world. It is the nature of the beast. I will freely grant that there is a lot less of this these days than there was back in the 1980's....

Regards, and Welcome to Gunco.
 
#29 ·
I think most of us have had to weld up holes and re-drill a time or two. no need to scrap them. I would have done that instead of de-milling & starting over.
 
#30 ·
I used a template everything seemed to end up in the right spot when I put it together,.............The hammer seemed like it was too high the bolt would not close until I ground it down a little
Maybe the template is off a little? Not you applying it but it's design.

Welcome to the forum
 
#31 ·
I'm getting close to finishing the new receiver. Used measurement and not a Template this time. So far so good.

The one I demilled is put one side until I can find someone to Weld up those rear holes for me.

Pulled out the original receiver stubs for that kit. Sure enough, the factory had to cut the rear of the original Romanian receiver(1986)to accommodate fitting rear trunion and dust cover.
 
#33 · (Edited)
I'm just guessing, you know throw anything out to make you think it over.

If you go this route again, make sure everything is lined up and just center punch the holes, then drill. This way you don't have to worry about keeping everything lined up while drill.


Here's 2 themplates if you want to compare them to each other
Edit; use the links below
 
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