00032 he had a patented version that didnt recopercate. aparently he hasent made it avaliable.
here is another interesting set up that has a bolt hold and LH charge.
Davis Tactical Solutions - Home
claims a side mount scope can be used some how?
one of my main gripes about a AK is the inabilty to load and unload with out the safety on. I have a few builds with very light worked triggers and I get a little nervious slamming home a round when reloading with the safety off. Im considering a positive stop set up on the hammer or the trigger for my varmit set up. a push buttion set up built into the trigger guard would be pretty easy to block the trigger. maybe Ill do a whole trigger guard in bullet with a push button safety. i wish I could get my hands on a super Veper set up.
Charge a rifle with the hammer down and the safety on [and no mag in it, of course], the hammer just stops on the sear surfaces on the trigger. You could probably get around it, but the only way I figure would be to make the main sear "arms" hinged like the disconnector, but spring loaded in the other direction.
They'd pop over the hammer's sear surface, and when the travel stop [the triangle part, like the one on the non-hooked side of the disconnector] comes into contact with the trigger it should be plenty solid to provide a good trigger pull.
00034I think focusing on the ammo is best course of action with a factory chamber.Quote:
I really want to see what can be done w/ factory bbl.
seating the bullets out as far as the mag allows. if only there was a brass source with a thicker neck. there is so much slop in a factroy chamber. one could try only partaly resizing the brass and then doing the necks, reliablilty would likely becoma factor in a dirty weapon however. IMOO ammo is the biggest thing once the trigger is good and the sights /optics are improved.
00035I had some coming but it got back ordered and I havent heard any thing. money is tight so right now I havent been doing much shooting. I was also wanting to try some 220 russian brass blown out. that would have the small flash hole that the benchrest crowd claim improves burn consistancy.Quote:
have you looked at lapua (sp) brass? it is not cheep but I think it will fit the bill for what you are looking for. muttman
90 cents or more a case for a gun that didn't cost $300 to build is a little pricy but It would be nice to try, and of course it gets reloaded.
I think any thing under a 1" group out of a stock 16" loose chamber is damm good.
Im working on a deal for a new .308 kreiger barrel blank that is damaged on one end that is a 1-14 twist. Im thinking a rifle with a 14" barrel with a permminatly installed extention/ Boss type set up with a 23mm no taper profile might be very accurate. there would be litteraly no barrel flex. If I get it Im going to get a very tight reamer recut from one of my standard ones or possably build it in 30 BR. Ill loose some velocity with the short barrel but it shoud still shoot good. I was considering putting it on a rewelded Yugo reciver.
to many projects no money :(
00036Hey glad you made it over here welcome.Quote:
Im going to bolt a solid pic rail from the rear trunnion to the front
every thing sounds really good except this ^^^^^^. IMOO you dont want any part of the optics mount touching the reciver especialy the rear tang. and up down or side to side pressure on the stock or any thing from the Bipod pod or bag is going to induce reciver flex and if the optic touches the reciver a any miniscule amount of movement is going to be huge at 500 yard. I relize you have a milled reciver and that will help likely a ton but I honestly feel that its better to let the mount walk with the barrel as it warms up. there is no way we are going to get Bolt action stiffness so its better aI think to let the scope ride on the barrel or the trunion. your build sounds really cool and pretty close to what I have done. I dont think you neeed to square the face of the trunion on a press in barrel build. on a screw in barrel you bet. Im working on plans for a switch barrel screw in barrel on a stamped Yugo now and it will get trued.
I just did a Grendal barrel for a guy/meamber that is going on a VZ and I hope it shoots like I think it will. I was going to do one but Im going the 260 Remington route on a Sagia 3 lug bolt and trunion as a well as aa light barrel 260 that will shot lighter loads.
keep in mind that a adjustale gas block needs a port bigger than nessacry or it dont help. if you are going to be shooting pretty consistant loads not light plinkers I would taken the lightest/lowest pressure load you think you might ever shoot and drill the port in increments untill it will barely cycle, on those. You can always make it bigger no need to drill a port bigger than you hottest load will cycle. Try to get the port in the grove. some were I posted pics of a tool I made to do that. Im betting with the pressure of the grendal you wll need a .075 to .085 hole depending were the port is.
The 6mmAR turbo has gotten my attention and I think it would be a really good round in a AK especiaaly with a custom Mag that is slightly longer to allow the bullets to be seated out. The 22AR would be a awsome varmit round with a fast twist barrel.
00037 Yea that is going to be a cool build. If you can get the reciver stiff enough it will be pretty good. This is pretty high dollar build. I really like it. You wont be taking the bolt and carrier out much with a mount like that but truthfully I havent pulled my bolt out in the last 1000 shots. just clean the barrel blow out the insides with air and cleaner and relube. I can still get my cover off on mine.
I have a new idea for a custom RSB that will come back half way over the reciver and use a shorter dust cover that will allow the carrier to just squease in and out.
To mount a full size rifle scope you need to get the rear ring about 4" back from the front of the reciver 5" is better and allows more adjustment of the scope. my idea is to have the RSB take up the area of were the front half of the dust cover is and then mount a scope directly to it it will be sopported by the barrel as well as tie into the front trunion. The rail on my varmit rig could be stiffer by adding more material to the sides possbly along side the scope if that was done aluminum might work
If you plan on shooting that grendel at 1000 yard you are going to want a rail that will be angled so you will be able to dial in your scope at those ranges other wise you will run out of turns on the knobs.
You mentiond doing a 308 conversion as well as you are doing a screw in barrel build.
you really need to get down to the calibure conversion area here and read all that. I have done a couple and I am working on a screw in switch barrel build that will have every thing from 17-223 to .500 cal shot out of it. Ive got 17remington, 17-223, 3 differant weight and length 223'S, 22-250, 5,45x39, 243, 260,7mm08, 7.62x39, 308, 300 Savage, 358, barrels in hand now and are working on a 444 rimless marlin wildcat, and a couple of other big bores and possable a 410 SG barrel . I have ideas for a interchable ejector and a adjustable feed ramp the will use a Sagia style bolt rotation pin. Im planning on using modifed G3 mags. with 4bolts and the above barrels. I will be able to shoot anything that flys or walks the earth. Im starting to think about gutting my 308 Saiga for the project and then I can load full power or shoot any factory ammo Originaly it was going to be on a bulged Yugo trunion. I'm building this for my Son as a Xmass presant he got a box of parts this year . He is 9 so we got time.
00038Im sure there ok for short range shooting and even midrange shooting but there not the optimum set up for super accurate work. any time reciver flex and pressure imparted on the stock ect there is bound to be small devations in point of aim. will you be able to tell at a 100 yards if your scope mount is throwing you impacts of a 1/8" Or more I dont know. I suspose it would take some testing of various mounts with the same scope on the same gun with the same ammo. and the gun would need to be accurate to start. and any wind or temperature change or degrees of how clean the bore is ect could throw off the testing. I have a side rail on several guns and I could possably press in a barrel with one of my canterleaver setups and do back to back testing at some point this summer if I had a rail that went front to back I could maybe test it as well. Im not going to add a rail to my varmit gun so thats out and every thing else is not under .750 consistantly so how do you really do testing unless you know it can shoot 1/2" or better every time, then the changes may show. I just envision differant pressures and loads imparted on the stock going from placed on a bench in bags were the stock is pushing up on the reciver VS standing were the stock may be pulling the reciver down or side ways or who knows. may be my pistol shoots so well becuse there is no stock affecting any thing. its got the scope mounted on the tight fit gas tube so reciver flex cant affect it.. IMOO the best mount is one that could be mounted directly to the trunion or on the barrel pressed tightly against the trunion were the reciver is out of the equation completly. On a milled reciver a heavy duty side mount that cant flex may be fine.Quote:
I was thinking of getting one of those scope mounts that fit into the rear sight and the rear tang. Do I get the idea that maybe these are not the best idea?
00039Hmmmm I disagree on the AK. Mine it the most accurate one I have seen or heard of so far and the mount is only on the barrel and not touching any thing else but the trunion with 100% face to face contact . I have the mount pressed tight to the trunion the two surfaces were lapped together. short of welding the trunion and the mount together it as close as you can come to being one piece. I suspect all barrel whip/ movement/ walk.warp is forward of the mount. the gun is as accurate if not more accurate than the savage varmit rifle that the barrel came off of. my barrel was new but I have three buddies that have the same model my rifle was from. they all shoot about the same as my AK with my loads. I get about .488" 5 shot groups on a good day and can get it even smaller with a 4 shot group. I havent shot match bullets or really good brass so there is room for improvemennt.Quote:
I want to stay away from any style optics mount that has anything to do with mounting on the barrel .Always a big 'no-no'.
your milled reciver is a differant deal but Id be suprised if it will much better. keep in mind that there is stress imparted on the barrel when the barrel is threaded or presses into the reciver. as the barrrel heats and does its stuff that stress can affect it.
I dont think my mount moves much as the barrel heats and when it does it moves with the barrel.
Im really eager to see a range report on your build. It also nice to see some one else putting forth the money and time to do one of these.
You can put the rail much lower and and make it shorter than this some sidewall would not hurt either. i made this in a huge hurry 5years ago and the paint wasent even wet when I loaded it in the RV for my first Praire dog hunt. it worked well enough thaat I never bothered to up date it. I use a large sun sheild that gets pretty close to things if I lowere things much more. The next varmint build (I have three on the bench) will be designed more around getting the scope lower. Im stuck with a stamped reciver for now so I just eleminate the flex from the picture. I suspect if I didnt have the mount solid against the trunion and further down the barrel the mount would hurt harmonics and all that stuff.