Converting the Bushmaster
My buddy and I are wanting to convert the Bushmaster AR from its' current military style into a long range, tack driving varmint destroyer.
I need to preface this with a short synopsis. My buddy is a good ole boy and doesnt really get into the Assault rifle aspect of the sport as I do.
I convinved him to buy the Full size Bushmaster(with some peer pressure from friends) almost 2 years ago. and he has only fired about 700 rounds through it. Long story short-he doesnt like the rifle!!!!????( a feed problem has plagued it since buying new-we will try brass loads instead of steel if not, I will personally contact Bushmaster)
Anyhow, we were plinking with his .243 rifle up to 500 yards at turkey size targets and he was hooked. He immediately realized the potential of his AR rifle and has asked me to look into converting this with him ASAP!
Money isnt really an option with this guy-he always buys top notch stuff.
Here are a few parts that he would like the conversion to have:
-remove plastic foregaurd and replace with a varmint housing.
-remove peep sight/carry handle and replace with high power otpics/rail
-improved butt stock
any other suggestions? What am I missing? I've never turned a military rifle into a range queen before?
I built one using this upper Welcome to Model 1 Sales' Online Order Center
Unfortunately I only have access to a 100 yard range, but it shoots MOA all day long with decent ammo.
I don't have a pic on this computer, but I will post one when I get home.
I'd first try some quality ammo in his gun and figure out whats causing the feeding problem. That'll give you a good idea how that barrel shoots and if its accuracy is acceptable or if it needs replaced.
Yeah, this has been a BIG point of contention for us with this rifle.
I called bushmaster and went through all of the basics with them
-can this chamber both .223 and 5.56-YES
-Will this reliably feed both steel and brass casings/WOLF ammo-YES
-Their answer was the one that they stood by time after time, "it needs about 1000 rds to break in properly"
MANUALLY cycling 1000 rounds takes a long time. Obviously something is wrong. AND..it only takes a few rounds, starting as a clean and polished weapon, to develop feed problems.
The xpended rounds extract just fine, but another is NOT loaded behind it?
A customizer at the gun show(who specialized in AR's and AR conversions) told us NOT to use Wolf ammo?/???
The MFR said it was ok?
So, we will buy a few boxes of REM .223 ammo and see how it likes that...
No steel casings! They eat up your extractor.
I've seen more than one person complaining about low powered wolf 223 ammo. I don't know if it was a lot# or they just load them light. It sounds like your gun is short stroking if its jut not picking up a new round. It could be a mag problem, but most people have more than one mag so it should of become evident by now if thats the case. If they're telling you to shoot 1000 rounds to break it in somethings wrong. They're just hoping the problem goes away. I can see 100 rounds to seal off a leaking carrier key,gas tube,front sight block. Try the differnt ammo and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't check/replace your gas rings and look for gas leaks.
I think you hit the nail on the head.
Originally Posted by moleman
-have tried multiple mags(all new)
-have NOT yet tried diff ammo/bras ammo(I feel that this is the prob)
-Do not trust Bushmaster support.
-If the new ammo does not rectify this, I will DEMAND that Bushmaster look at the rifle and TRY to squeeze out a mag full of WOLF ammo without manually cycling every round.
ANYHOW, I appreciate the tips.
NOW, back to the inital reason for my post-re-tooling the AR.
Instead of the new upper, I may just opt for a new aluminum barrel cover, bi pod and high power scope for starters?
we have some reclaimed land in PA that we visit several times annually, sit atop a "crows nest" on camp and shoot at targets up to 500 yards away.
With the wind up there, it is a real challenge!!!
The only Wolf ammo which people recommend is 7.62x39, because an AK can eat pretty much any trash you feed it. I'd avoid Silver Bear, too, same low quality junk.
Have you considered a bull barrel? That should increase accuracy a bit.
A bull barrel is the way to go, but I suppose my question focuses more on the other aspects of the rifle. Scope-scope mounts, Bi pod with swivel stud mount, comp pistol grip, butt stock.
Originally Posted by vbrtrmn
Just a general gathering of materials so that I can line them up and make a plan for the rifle...catch my drift?
I have also thought of what the rifle might perform like with the stock barrel on it-obviously not as well, but would like to try it out anyhow.
Will the front sight be a nuisance/obstruction to the optics if left on?
Sometimes you get a surprise with a stock barrel. While I was removing the welded on comp on my coyote hunting buddies DPMS 16" carbine he had me put on a free float tube, flat top and rail gas block. He says it now shoots 3/4" groups at 100 yards. He was going to sell the barrel because it would normally not shoot much better than 1-1/2". If weight isn't an issue then go with the bull barrel. You won't notice the front sight on the standard barrel if you're looking through the scope at a target unless you're on low power and looking for it. Its so much easier though to put a Armalite/RRA rail type gas block on the barrel while you have it off. If you're doing all that sometimes it can be cheaper to buy a complete kit and sell off what you don't use along with your take off parts as a new/used parts kit. Or you can use it to build up another gun.