05-20-2010, 08:02 PM
Had a bunch of other stuff going on, didn't jump right on the Starline brass, and it's out of stock again. However, a little box showed up today from Alexander Arms with a bag full of Beowulf brass in it. Maybe the other from Impact will show up sometime soon.
13 months, 5 days since I ordered. Well, at least they showed up...
I've started on a .410, a 2XTM, and the Hadar since then, but now I guess I need to get back onto the Beowulf, particularly now that I can replace the Tapco flat with one of the new AK-Builder flats.
05-20-2010, 09:25 PM
No Hope For Me
screw that. no way would I be building a semi auto that you cant get brass for unless I can make it cheap from something else. If I was going to do a 50 it would not be a beowulf.
Id be looking at cut down 300 WSM as the base for a wildcat.
05-20-2010, 09:44 PM
When I started the build every sizeable vendor had Beowulf brass, mostly in the 55 cent range. It was even cheaper than .45-70 or good 54R brass. That's one of the reasons I went for the Beowulf.
Being unable to predict the future, I wasn't able to know that just a month later Beowulf brass would be *GONE*.
Another reason I went with the Beowulf was that the .499 wossname and the .458 SOCOM were "out of stock - no backorder" everywhere, while everyone claimed they had Beowulf in stock.
06-16-2010, 10:10 AM
O-kaay! Brass finally showed up from AA, and then a week later Impact said they were shipping, too. After hugging the plastic bag full of brass to my body and making crooning sounds for a while, I went out to the shop to chamber the barrel.
Arg. The Green Mountain barrel is just enough smaller than spec across the lands that the Pacific reamer pilot won't clear the rifling. I sent Pacific the specs from Green Mountain's web site, so it's not their fault.
Fortunately the reamer uses a removable pilot. I'll have to make one on the lathe.
Anyway, the Beowulf project is up and rolling again!
10-11-2010, 01:44 AM
midway has beowulf ar15 barrels now, you could lathe off the locking lugs and it would work for this project.
AR-Stoner AR-15 Barrel and Bolt 50 Beowulf 1 in 20" Twist 18" Stainless Steel - MidwayUSA
The bug bit me again, so I've been daydreaming.
458 socom bull barrels are available here.
.458 Socom Barrel (Heavy) - $395.00 : MGI Military, MGI Military
I was thinking, I have a junk trunnion, I can cut it up and use it as a sleeve to weld the rear sight block to.
A custom gas block is really not that big of a deal, a machine shop could do the hard part pretty quick, you just need a square block with two holes bored into it, you can drill the third hole (gas port) your self.
A virgin trunnion would be usefull so you could choose the exact location of your barrel pin. threading it is a good idea too, just harder to head space.
Any respectable machine shop should be able to make a "gas block" (aka manifold) in a few minutes. Probably for less money that it would cost you to buy the drill bits to make it yourself. drilling out an fal is a good idea, I don't know if there is enough metal there though. and the drill bit will cost you $$$
The gas block doesn't need to be fancy. just two big holes and a smaller one intersecting on a square block of steel.
They have those 12 gauge saiga quad rails now, that would go real nice together on this project.
I Oklahoma just legalized night time pig hunting, woot. need those tacktikoolaid rails and all that.
BArrelless romy kits are 129 on gunbroker right now too. looking at sub $1000 to put this whole thing together, and have the coolest ak on the block.
10-11-2010, 02:00 AM
hmm... that sucks.
makes the 458 or 450 seem like a better and better idea.
Originally Posted by TRX
10-11-2010, 07:51 PM
No Hope For Me
HMMMM you should be able to build the gun way less than $1000. there is not much differant than any other build. use standrd parts other then the barrel and some PSL parts. the gun should be doable for around $45o or so depending on what barrel blank you start with. I sure would not start with a AR barrel id just get the right blank or doner take off and then chamber it. keep in mind you are not going to be able to just pin in the barrel as it will it the chamber.
10-11-2010, 07:58 PM
No Hope For Me
HMMMM you should be able to build the gun way less than $1000. there is not much differant than any other build. use standrd parts other then the barrel and some PSL parts. the gun should be doable for around $45o or so depending on what barrel blank you start with. I sure would not start with a AR barrel id just get the right blank or doner take off and then chamber it. keep in mind you are not going to be able to just pin in the barrel as it will hit the chamber.
12-04-2010, 08:31 AM
O-kaay! I have a box full of (well, with four) AK-Builder Yugo fixed-stock flats, I finished the Yugo bending shoe for the fixture, and I'm almost finished with the oil catch pan for the lathe. I need to order a pump for the oiler - I'm going to oil through the barrel while reaming. I know most people don't, but "there's no kill like an overkill", and after what I spent having a custom reamer made, I'm taking no chances.
My lathe's tailstock doesn't have enough travel to ream the chamber. I found a stripped tailstock casting on eBay to make a lever-operated tailstock from. Fortunately I don't need graduations or a Morse taper on the ram; it just has to hold the reamer head.
Both barrels are too small for the reamer pilot to fit into, or vice versa. I still need to call Kiff and get a couple more pilot bushings.
12-04-2010, 05:23 PM
No Hope For Me
run your lath slow and feed the the reamer by hand with just a tap ahndel or simular tool and a pretty decent chamber can be cut with out using a tail stock. there is really no need to run coolant through the barrel or any thing like that just pull it out every 15 seconds and blow it off and reoil it. Chips getting caught would be my biggest fear.
back in the old days before floating reamer holders and all that, lots of chambers were cut by hand held reamers and turning the barrel in a lathe. Id go hand held over a fixed set up any day unless your lathe is very very accurate and you can get that bore perfectly true and lined up tot he spindel. If you think about it a floating reamer holder really dont do any thing you cant do by just holding it by hand. the main thing is go slow and have a pilot that fits right. Ive done several recuts were I deepend the chamber slighty with just the wrench that fits my tool post. JUST GO SLOW.