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Thread: ComBloc Optic Sighting In – Seems kinda sloppy to me

  1. #1
    Gunco Member GS455's Avatar
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    Default ComBloc Optic Sighting In – Seems kinda sloppy to me

    How bout a ring clamp to help?

    Am I missing something about how to sight in a ComBloc optic? Let me review w/o pictures and hopefully my proposition or question might make sense.

    I know there are different scales, etc, etc, but let’s just say you set the elevation turret to 1 for 100m.

    1) You shoot a group.
    2) Wherever the group lands you are supposed to loosen the turret’s two opposing screws (not the center one) and
    3) twist the turret to raise/lower the chevron to the group with your right hand (I’m right handed) while
    4) using the finger tips on your left hand to hold the thin graduated elevation ring stationary all while
    5) looking through the scope.
    6) The rifle must be firmly clamped in a lead sled or similar NOT to move.

    So I’m using both hands all while looking through the scope and hoping to keep the rifle still. Same process for windage which is even harder if your are right handed. This is what you do for POSP, POS, PU, PE, ONM76B and similar scopes – correct? Am I missing something?

    This is a hassle, messy and imprecise. I can’t imagine this is how Russian snipers zero their scopes for extraordinary distance accuracy. If this is in fact the technique then wouldn’t it make sense for there to be some external clamp that you could place on the elevation/windage rings to keep them stationary while you fire and adjust the turrets? I’m almost tempted to gently try this with a small vice grip or similar. The key will be to keep the clamp from moving. Shrug . . . maybe some Gorilla Tape will do the job.

    Ideas? Clarification? Feedback?

  2. #2
    Gunco Regular akblue's Avatar
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    I use a different method. Initially I disregard the turret numbers. Though setting them at 0 windage and 1elevation is OK to start.

    If you have a laser or other bore sighter then use that and turn the turrets until the reticle is on the red dot or zeroing point. This saves range time or getting on paper. again disregard the numbers as they will be adjusted at the range etc.

    At the range start with a large paper target so you are sure to be on paper. Shoot a group. Move the turrets to adjust the POA to the POI. After that is complete.., then loosen the turret cap screws and move the ring number dial to 0 for windage and 1 if zeroing at 100 meters or half way if at 50 or so.
    That is how I do it.

    If the reticle is not in the center you will likely need to shim the scope in the mount etc.
    If you run out of adjustment while zeroing (eg., elevation dial is at 0 already but still shooting high)., you will need to loosen the turret screws and move the dial to 3 or so.., to allow more adjustment. Start the zero from that point again.
    Last edited by akblue; 01-12-2015 at 10:18 AM.
    2ndAmendican likes this.

  3. #3
    Gunco Good ole boy 2ndAmendican's Avatar
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    Excellent explanation Akblue. That's how I do it.
    Enforcement, NOT Amnesty!!!!!!

    "If they’re going to come here illegally, apply for & receive assistance through a corrupted Government agency encouraging this lawless behavior, work under the table & send billions of dollars each year back to their families in Mexico, while bleeding local economies dry, protest in our streets waving their Mexican flags DEMANDING rights, while I have to press ’1′ for English, then they need to be shipped back to where they came from!" -Chad Miller

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    Gunco Rookie Plumbob2's Avatar
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    I also thank you, now maybe I can get everything working as designed.

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    Gunco Regular hvymax's Avatar
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    Exactly I either use a laser or boresighter.

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