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Thread: bolt carrier beautification questions

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    Patriot birdman8387's Avatar
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    Default bolt carrier beautification questions

    Whats up guys. got a few basic questions. I appreciate all input in advance.

    Picked up a Wasr-10/63 and am trying to pretty it up a little. One of the main things that i would like input on is what to do is make the bolt carrier, (at least what shows) have a nicer look. Right now it is blue and you can see rather obvious machining marks and grooves where they re worked it to function properly. What can i do to smooth it out? I think that it is too signifigant for wet sanding.....but i'm not sure. do i use a dremmel or polishing wheel on bench grinder? Do i sand and put some jb weld over and then sand down to smooth surface? Im not going for the chrome look, i will be re finishing with aluma hyde II.

    I will try and get some pics up tomorrow, but any advice now i could at least start to think about what i gotta do.
    “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms… disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes… Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man.
    Thomas Jefferson

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    Gunco Regular akblue's Avatar
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    It is a milspec firearm., not a sporting arm. It will have machining marks, lathe marks, grinding marks etc. This is what makes it look , feel and be a miltary type weapon. If you want to improve the looks., I would suggest disassembly, degrease and give it a nice coat of semi-gloss Appliance Epoxy from a rattle can right over the original phosphate finish., and dry 4 hours then bake for an hour in the oven at 275. Your rifle., do as you see fit.

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    Patriot birdman8387's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akblue View Post
    It is a milspec firearm., not a sporting arm. It will have machining marks, lathe marks, grinding marks etc. This is what makes it look , feel and be a miltary type weapon. If you want to improve the looks., I would suggest disassembly, degrease and give it a nice coat of semi-gloss Appliance Epoxy from a rattle can right over the original phosphate finish., and dry 4 hours then bake for an hour in the oven at 275. Your rifle., do as you see fit.
    Thats a great idea! now more Q & A....lol....thanks by the way....

    Are you suggesting the app epoxy for entire finish? or just the bc? will the app epoxy fill in small variations and machine marks? And, after several light coats, can i lightly sand with 1000-1200 grit to remove semi gloss apperance? also is the app epoxy solvent resistant? I like the rugged apperance of akm's and dont want to make it to pretty...lol....just the bc is a little much.

    Is the app epoxy better than alumahyde II?

    Thanks again akblue!!
    “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms… disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes… Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man.
    Thomas Jefferson

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    Gunco Regular akblue's Avatar
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    I would not use any paint as a "filler" a light thin coat is best. In reality I prefer KG GunKote which goes on very thin. But generaly is a spray gun or airbrush and small compressor application.
    I was just making a suggestion. I am not as familiar with Alumahyde II but even the satin is very glossy and goes on thick in my experience. I have two cans I purchased back a few years ago that I will probaby use on something other than firerams.
    Just saying that milling marks are part of the rifle and the history etc. No big deal to me. But you can try thick paint and sanding etc. I would not.

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    GuncoHolic twa2471's Avatar
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    Paint won't hold up long enough IMO to even bother with. Seen it done and a few hundred rounds down the pipe ,,,it needs to be redone. One of my favorite things to do is,, bead blast, send out to a commercial platter for a matte finish nickle plating. Adds a few .0001's or so and tightens things up pretty nice, but not so much it binds. Yes I did see a slight increase in accuracy too. Its also impervious to rust, hard as Hell and rides real smooth in the actions(especially if you lightly polish the areas where the bolt rides in the action). It also looks real nice on SKS's, VZ58's and the like where much of the bolt is exposed. Also a snap to clean the crud,, 99% wipes right off with a dry paper towel, it's amassing,,,,best part,, the last SKS bolt I had done cost me 23 bucks to have it done. I'd put a pic of it up , but I sold it a about a year ago or so.


    Now tell me,,,,does it get much better than that???? That would be my suggestion.

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    Gunco Regular jimraynor21's Avatar
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    So guys something I have thought about a few times as far as a self-finished receiver is concerned:

    Would any of the BATF legalities apply to letting another person put a finish on a home-built receiver gun? Is parking/the nickel plating you speak of considered manufacturing? Or can X company do this type of work without worrying about violating federal law?

    I still plan on doing a nice durable finish on my rifle this winter and a quick google search revealed quite a few nickel-plating companies in my area.

    Hope my question makes sense. Just weighing all of my options and curious in general.
    “The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil, and while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles.”

    ― Jeff Cooper

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    Patriot birdman8387's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twa2471 View Post
    Paint won't hold up long enough IMO to even bother with. Seen it done and a few hundred rounds down the pipe ,,,it needs to be redone. One of my favorite things to do is,, bead blast, send out to a commercial platter for a matte finish nickle plating. Adds a few .0001's or so and tightens things up pretty nice, but not so much it binds. Yes I did see a slight increase in accuracy too. Its also impervious to rust, hard as Hell and rides real smooth in the actions(especially if you lightly polish the areas where the bolt rides in the action). It also looks real nice on SKS's, VZ58's and the like where much of the bolt is exposed. Also a snap to clean the crud,, 99% wipes right off with a dry paper towel, it's amassing,,,,best part,, the last SKS bolt I had done cost me 23 bucks to have it done. I'd put a pic of it up , but I sold it a about a year ago or so.


    Now tell me,,,,does it get much better than that???? That would be my suggestion.
    That sounds like a great idea. i am researching plating companies in my area right now! I just hope that the companies i seek out are comfy with doing such a job. A lot of places shy away from doing anything to do with guns(laws maybe, or just the rep that follows)....especially when its an AK...the most prolific gun of all time!
    “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms… disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes… Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man.
    Thomas Jefferson

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    Patriot birdman8387's Avatar
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    off topic, kinda.....the gas piston on this rifle is screwed down tight as hell, no play whatso ever.....also no pin. (for how tight it is on i dont think a pin matters, just stating all facts) I have been under the impression that you want the piston to not be screwed down all the way so there is some play.....??? should i leave it the way it is, or should I TRY to back it out a touch and add a pin? And....do i need to remove anyway when i send to the nickel plater? or can they work around it?

    FYI- have not fired this rifle yet. Maybe i should dump a couple mags thru it to see if the tight gas piston is negatively effected by heat and is in need of loosening? just thoughts...
    “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms… disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes… Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man.
    Thomas Jefferson

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    Gunco Regular akblue's Avatar
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    Are uou sure there us no pin? Unless it is welded on one side like Century does/did there would be open holes in the carrier. The pin is peened and then gound smooth to the carrier. The piston will loosen up over time. Unless it is binding or restricting the cycling it is fine.

    Generally, a receivered rifle being worked on by an individual for compensation, other than the owner requires a FFLlicense. This includes finishing. Individual parts are not so restricted. If the owner is present and assiusting I believe it is not considered engaging in the business.

    http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/gunsmiths.html

    I have never heard that chrome or nickel plating increases accuracy. Dunno why it would.?

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    GuncoHolic twa2471's Avatar
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    The plating process is OK under the law and no special thing is required by them to do it. Same as having a gun re blued, it's not a manufacturing process,, it's just a refinishing process applied to an existing firearm. No problem. Many companies shy away from doing guns cause chrome, which most people do on bolts, is much thicker and it requires allot of prep work to do which can throw specs off and render a firearm unsafe in some cases if not done right. Or just to tight,,,or loose,, to work right. Mostly due to to much meat being taken off during buffing and prepping the parts, or to much thickness from the chrome being applied . At least that's what a couple platters the won't do guns have told me. For me I prepped the part for plating myself so critical areas weren't effected and they just had to clean and plate the part.

    I can't swear that just the nickle plating was the main reason for that SKS shooting better sense I did several other things to the gun at the same time,,, but it definatley shot much better after it was done up. And the bolt was WAY smother operating after that.

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