Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Bullpup trigger wire/linkage fix

  1. #1
    Gunco Rookie 762x39run's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    12
    Feedback Score
    0

    Postak Bullpup trigger wire/linkage fix

    Trigger wire broke on my CAI BP. I saw the thread that 7.62x39 posted and was wondering how well it held up?Does anyone else have any fix ideas or experiences they could share with me? I,m surprised some company dosent offer a replacemrnt part or a better part. Thanks

  2. #2
    Gunco Addicted for life j427x's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    9,349
    Feedback Score
    8 (100%)

    Default

    that might be one of them things you just have to fabricate.

    CAI ain't know for service after the sale. but i would hit them up anyway-- you might get lucky and they have some spares stashed somewhere.

  3. #3
    GuncoHolic twa2471's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    4,590
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    I'd had the same problem with the one I had from CIA just after they first came out,,God that musta been 10-15 years ago, at least,maybe more,, I'm thinking.

    I just repaired it myself by using a heavy gauge stainless rod, same as what's used for Tig welding. I threaded the ends and added a model airplane clevis's on each end for adjust-ability and a good way to attach it at both ends. I also added a couple QD sling swivel studs inside the stock to thread the rod through so it wouldn't flex and bind,,it worked great. If I remember right one I had to epoxy on to a gusset, the other I was able to thread into a flat spot inside the stock. I've done a couple different ones before that way ,the other was a Bushmaster with a real crappy trigger. Worked on both. That small a die to thread the rod with was a bit hard to find though,,,,

    This was years ago and I don't have it anymore or I'd put up some pics of what I did, but it's pretty straight forward to do and worked very well,,and was much better than the original as a matter of fact. Much smoother with less over travel too. A hint though,, bend the rod AFTER it's through the internal QD sling swivel studs or it won't be so easy after sense the rod required a couple bends on that one if I remember right and would have been a bear to get through otherwise, if at all. I screwed up the first one myself before realizing that finer point. Only a piece of Tig rod ,,so no big deal, but defiantly a "Oh ,,Dowwwww,,what were you thinking " moment !! DUHHHH !!

    That was my fix,,hope that helps. Wish I had some pics for ya, but she's long gone. But it's pretty easy to see what you got to do once it's apart and see where it has be routed.

  4. #4
    Gunco Rookie 762x39run's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    12
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Thanks for the info I,ll get started on it. I have gotten alot of good ideas. Thanks

  5. #5
    Citizen, Patriot, Ranger bellson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Peoples Republik of Kalifornia
    Posts
    2,610
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by twa2471 View Post
    I'd had the same problem with the one I had from CIA just after they first came out,,God that musta been 10-15 years ago, at least,maybe more,, I'm thinking.

    I just repaired it myself by using a heavy gauge stainless rod, same as what's used for Tig welding. I threaded the ends and added a model airplane clevis's on each end for adjust-ability and a good way to attach it at both ends. I also added a couple QD sling swivel studs inside the stock to thread the rod through so it wouldn't flex and bind,,it worked great. If I remember right one I had to epoxy on to a gusset, the other I was able to thread into a flat spot inside the stock. I've done a couple different ones before that way ,the other was a Bushmaster with a real crappy trigger. Worked on both. That small a die to thread the rod with was a bit hard to find though,,,,

    This was years ago and I don't have it anymore or I'd put up some pics of what I did, but it's pretty straight forward to do and worked very well,,and was much better than the original as a matter of fact. Much smoother with less over travel too. A hint though,, bend the rod AFTER it's through the internal QD sling swivel studs or it won't be so easy after sense the rod required a couple bends on that one if I remember right and would have been a bear to get through otherwise, if at all. I screwed up the first one myself before realizing that finer point. Only a piece of Tig rod ,,so no big deal, but defiantly a "Oh ,,Dowwwww,,what were you thinking " moment !! DUHHHH !!

    That was my fix,,hope that helps. Wish I had some pics for ya, but she's long gone. But it's pretty easy to see what you got to do once it's apart and see where it has be routed.
    Well, that is essentially what i did too, but I didn't think to use rig rod.
    I used 3/16 mild steel rod, and hardened it. I also did not use the model airplane bits
    Bu that is a brilliant idea. As is the swivel idea.

    My answer was to use the original wire as a pattern guide, and then mod the trigger and sear assemblies. It worked, and with some tweaking I was able to improve the trigger to the point where even JRS WAS impressed.

    It,s doable. Just make two or three at the same time, cause spares are a
    Great thing.

    Regards
    Imagine whirled peas

    Peace, Love, And Superior Firepower






    Bellson

  6. #6
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    6,527
    Feedback Score
    10 (100%)

    Default

    Did you see both of these?

    AKU-94 project

    Bullpup linkage fix
    .

  7. #7
    GuncoHolic twa2471's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    4,590
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    The guy I sold that gun to is still using it as I fixed it and it never had issues and this guy has shot that thing so much I can't even believe it stills runs, I don't think he ever breaks it out without putting at least 500 rounds through it at a time. Don't know if a spare would ever be required.

    Thanks for the complement Bellson, I've never been know to "under build" anything and like to design mechanical stuff !! I've been into more mechanical stuff after being a mechanic forever and have good ideas what it will take to make something work well and be rugged.

    One thing on the R/C model clevis though,, use the aluminum ones. The nylon ones small enough to attach to the trigger group have some flex I found, for the bullpup trigger end the nylon ones are bigger and fit on both sides of the trigger, so there more stable,,ya want rugged , no fail,, use aluminum ones for both, just my opinion. And I'm sure with the hundreds of thousands of rounds that this rifle must have through it by now,,proves that fix worked pretty well.

Search tags for this page

century yugo m77
,
ma206 m77
,
ma206 magazines
,

yugo m77 308 you tube

,
yugo m77 not being made anymore
,

yugo m77 stocks

,

yugo m77 trigger

,

yugo m77 wood stocks

,
yugo opap cleaning rod fitment
,
zastava m77 build up
,
zastava m77 dmr
,
zastava m77 magazine mod
Click on a term to search our site for related topics.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •