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  1. #31
    BANNED mike928's Avatar
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    i meant machine wise!

    lol

  2. #32
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    The 1301 Clausing came with two bad phase converters that looked like all they needed were a new start capacitor and a new resistor. So, $22 later I had a new USA made start capacitor and a two pack of resistors on the way. Hope to get one of the phase converters rebuilt this week and test out the motor.
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  3. #33
    Where's my lathe? ashhoe's Avatar
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    YOU need to give me a holler before you hit the internet. I have caps and resistors at my disposal for a fellow flatlander.
    I'm a controls electrician, I work on giant machines and robots. I have all that.
    Matter of fact, I'm in the process of gathering materials to run my Bridgeport with a laptop using Twincat as the NC. Flying saw and all that!
    I'll get in touch with your family if I have to, set up an intervention.
    Whatever site I read it on as a members tag line, it's the truest statement ever made.
    "Our forefathers would have been shooting by now"
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  5. #34
    Where's my lathe? ashhoe's Avatar
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    Matter of fact, how about a single phase in, three phase out freak drive?
    Whatever site I read it on as a members tag line, it's the truest statement ever made.
    "Our forefathers would have been shooting by now"
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  6. #35
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashhoe View Post
    Matter of fact, how about a single phase in, three phase out freak drive?
    I'm one step above Homer Simpson (I hope) as far a electricity goes and this is going to be my first foray into anything 3-phase. The guy I got the lathe from was running his whole shop off of the unit in the pic and burned up 2-3 of them before going to a RPC. It looks like it's only an extra start cap and a couple resistors along with a switch and an indicator light. What the freak drive you're talking about? I plan on getting a Bridgeport soon which will most likely be 3-phase also.

  7. #36
    Where's my lathe? ashhoe's Avatar
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    It's usually a more basic motor controller. It changes the frequency to control motor speed like voltage change in a DC motor. Open end control versus closed end in a servo system.
    Think a rotary potentiometer with O to 20 volts to an input card. O volts tells the freak to run the motor at nothing and 20 volts makes it run at full speed. The frequency change can be hard on old insulation though. I have motors though.......
    Whatever site I read it on as a members tag line, it's the truest statement ever made.
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  8. #37
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I should be fine with the phase converter shouldn't I since the lathe has variable speed already? I actually have two phase converters like the one in the pic, so if the start cap and resistor fix the issue I just need another start cap to fix the other converter (for when the Bridgeport comes).

  9. #38
    Gunco Good ole boy kernelkrink's Avatar
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    I ain't no electrickery expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once! What Ashhoe is talking about sounds like a VFD, Variable Frequency Drive. An electronic box, ya supply 240 volt single phase in and it provides 240 volt three phase out the other side. In between you got a lot of programmable options, main one being variable speed and reversing. Also remote control/sensing options you can add. Very handy for those machines that require pulley/gear changes to change speed versus cranking a handle or moving a lever. Essentially, the HZ rating is what determines speed, you dial down normal 60 HZ line voltage to 30 HZ and your motor runs at half speed but full HP rating. Kinda complicated though, especially programming stuff beyond speed and reverse.

    That box ya got pictured looks like a static phase converter, basically it just starts the three phase motor in the proper direction and then runs it on single phase at a reduced HP. From what I understand if you add a slightly larger 3 phase "pony motor" than what you are powering the static phase converter then becomes a rotary phase converter providing true 3 phase power just like if the electric company had run it into your shop. Just wire the pony motor in like it is the machine you would be powering, then tap the three phase power off the three motor leads on the pony motor. Used three phase motors are dirt cheap to free around here. I have a TECO VFD to play with right now but eventually I think I will build a RPC using this method.

  10. #39
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    With the RPC aren't you drawing a lot more amps since you're running the RPC and whatever equipment you're going to use?

    The motor on the 1301 Clausing is a 5HP for a 13"x36" lathe. I've run my 13"x36" Sheldon off of a 1hp motor since I got it. About the only time I notice that it would benefit from more HP is at the top belt speed in the winter or with too heavy of a cut, again only on the top speed which I rarely use. At 2/3rd rated HP on the Clausing that's still 3-1/3HP. It uses a Reeves drive (like a snowmobile) for the variable speed so that's covered. I am also wanting to swap my mill/drill for a Bridgeport j-head so I am open to ideas that could be a fixall for both. I do have another static converter with a bad cap for it too. I removed the old cap and resistor on the one in the pic and soldered in new ones. Will have to wait until I can get a cord before testing it out though.
    Last edited by moleman; 06-03-2015 at 04:45 PM. Reason: add

  11. #40
    Gunco Good ole boy kernelkrink's Avatar
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    The static converters don't provide 2/3 rated HP, more like 40%. The motors tend to overheat quick when loaded beyond half or used more than intermittently. Yes, an RPC uses more power than a static, but you get more of the rated HP out of your motors. They also can power all the motors in the shop, where the static does one at a time. If not rated high enough, a stopgap solution is to turn on a smaller machine to act as another pony motor and increase the output. IIRC, the RPCs use about 30% more power than the load motor alone.


    The VFD is the most efficient, but requires a direct connection to a single motor. All the motor control is done with the VFD, such as on off and reverse forward. Makes use inconvenient if you are used to just flipping the drum switch to turn it on and off. You can't have any switch between the VFD and motor as the surges from switching can fry them. The remote control features of the VFD do come in handy here as you can wire the low voltage controls to more convenient locations instead of using the keypad. They can also cause interference issues by creating noise on the input lines.

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