Blue Prints for Milled AK Receiver and FCG?
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Thread: Blue Prints for Milled AK Receiver and FCG?

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    GuncoHolic yosuthnmasa's Avatar
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    Default Blue Prints for Milled AK Receiver and FCG?

    Just figured I'd ask the question. Don't know if anything out there exists, though. Otherwise, what do the torch cut milled receivers look like that come with some of the kits? Exactly what is left. Depending on how much is left, I might could use one of these torch cut kits to take some measurements and get some thoughts.

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    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    No blueprints are available that I'm aware of. The pic below is what came in my Bulgarian kit. While this receiver stub isn't torch cut, it does have enough of the front of the receiver to measure from. I haven't seen any milled AK parts kits with the rear portion included. I know the milled receiver has an angle on the back, but I have no idea what degree it's cut. Maybe someone with a milled receiver would be kind enough to measure it (hint hint). You wouldn't necessarily need to make the receiver for the milled stock set. You could cut it for a standard stock set. You could leave the receiver sides a little thicker and do a little shaving on the stock to get it to fit into the smaller opening.

    To be honest, I think it would be easier taking the measurements from a stamped receiver trunnion and incorporating it into a single unit with the receiver and stock tang.

    The barrel hole and bolt lug recess would require a cutting on a lathe, or a special bit for a mill. The bolt lug recess is round and is larger than the barrel hole. To make this hole in a mill, you'd need to use a cutter with a shoulder behind the cutting surface like in the picture below (A T-slot cutter or woodruff key cutter) and a rotary table. You could also use a boring bar to make the larger recess for the bolt lugs once the barrel hole is cut. You would also need a T-slot cutter for the lower rails and notches for the bolt lugs.

    You'll have to use the T-slot cutters to remove some of the metal inside the receiver. A standard bit would be fine for most of it, but you'll need to switch bits to undercut the rails.

    I think it is extremely possible to mill a receiver by hand, it'll just take a LOT of time and careful work.
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    GuncoHolic yosuthnmasa's Avatar
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    Rhino,

    Thanks for all the input! You know come to think of it, when I've seen milled parts kits, they have only ever included the front stub and none of the rear.

    Your comments strike up some interesting ideas. A milled receiver that would accept a stamped parts kit, excluding the front and rear tang! The milled receiver would not have a threaded hole for the barrel, but rather a smooth opening like that of the front trunnion on a stamped parts kit and with a hole to push through a barrel pin. The milled receiver, would incorporate the upper and lower rails as well as the front and rear trunnion. The dimples would also be included. The only changes that would be needed would be for the front and rear trunnion. With this kind of a milled receiver, one could utilze the surplus of stamped kits and get the strength of a milled receiver! What do you think Rhino?

    I think ideally it would be best to have the drawings of both the stamped and milled receiver. This way I could look at them both and see what changes I would need to make in the milled receiver to accept the stamped parts. The stamped receiver will be no problem generating some drawings, or rather gettting the drawings. I think we have them in the library now. But, the dismensions of the milled receiver, especially the rear of the receiver, would be a problem. Any suggestions other than buying a milled receiver or combining the drawings I could take of the front stub and getting the dismensions from someone else of the rear portion? Sounds like this could be a real PITA!

    What would be the ideal type of steel for a milled receiver?

    Anyone have a milled front stub lying around that they don't need or would take a few bucks for it?

    What about dismensions of the fcg? I'm sure I could take them from the existing FA parts that come with the kit. Would be nice to incorporate some method of adjustment for the FCG, ie. trigger pull force. This has been done, right?..Redstar firearms.

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    GuncoHolic yosuthnmasa's Avatar
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    Sorry to bump my own thread here, but I'm getting excited with some of the projects I may forsee in the future! Does anyone else have any input or words of advice before I attempt any of this?

    BTW, I finally was able to find a school that will allow me to use their machining equipment. Many of you may not know, but I'm finally trying to finish my ME degree at GA Tech here in Atlanta. If any of you have ever been here, or can understand the machining resources that are available at a technical college, you might understand how excited I was to get back in school. But, after pursuing every route I could possibly take to get in the "student machine shop" I ran into brick walls. The only way I can use the tools here is if I am a grad student or assisting a teacher with research. I found a college, Dekalb Technical College, and it will cater to all of my needs. I'm hoping to be able to pursue some of the many ideas that I've had while surfing this board!

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    Gunco Member spray & pray's Avatar
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    If you still want some milled receiver stubs, drop me a pm.
    I have about 25lbs of the scraps left when the last Bulgarian SLR96s were caught in transit when the import ban hit. The rifles were dismantled, the receivers were demilled with cutting torches, and the parts were turned into parts kits.

    The stubs are in rough shape, but I think you could get the dimensions you need from them. They are not usable themselves, there are torch kerfs through the barrel mounting holes. Also note that these aren't military receivers, but Bulgarian commercial "sporting" receivers. They are for 23mm pressed pin barrels and single rear stock tang for a "butthole" stock. The same receivers as were used in the SA93, SLR95 & SLR96 series.

    If it interests you, I'll send you the best example of a front and rear stub.

    s & p

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