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milling an ak receiver

2K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  tarawa 
#1 ·
i hear about people milling ar 15 receiver's all the tim ak has a milled receiver why doesnt any body make one with there home milling set up
 
#2 ·
I was looking at a milled Arsenal receiver just last night! There is an incredible amount of metal to be removed. I am not sure that it could be done with "standard" cutters. Special fixtures would have to be produced. Lots and lots of time involved. I think that I would rather spend the time time trying to re invent the wheel.

Yours,
Thumb Clip Pull Pin.
 
#3 ·
If I remember the block of steel for a milled receiver starts at over 6 .lbs and when finished is a little over 2.lbs and you have to mill the rails inside and be able to get the metal out from under the rails. The AR is a dream to build as it separates in to two parts and does not require special milling equipment. Also it was for that reason (milled receiver) that the Russians perfected the sheet metal receiver over the short commings of there first sheet metal receiver as it was a lot lighter and easier to fabricate.

Im with Thumb Clip Pull Pin as they are things of beauty but my time would better spent doing other things like beating my head against a wall.
 
#5 ·
romaky said:
humm it is it not true that a milled is stronger than an stamped
????????????????

I would have to say yes. There is more material there as compared to a stamped receiver. But, I don't think that you're going to hear anyone complaining. The stamped are cheaper, still really strong, and we can produce them in our living rooms.
 
#9 ·
You wouldn't have to mill the lower rails. You could easily use a set of stamped lower rails to minimize the hassle and maximize the efficiency of your setup.

Most of the interior could be cut with standard high-speed steel, TiN, or carbide cutters. By using a combination of T-slot, shell, or woodruff cutters you could easily undercut the top rails and machine the inside. If you mill out the center to the width of the top rails (leaving extra width for tweaking), you would only have to shave about 3/32" to 1/8" off the sides.

To do the front of the receiver, you would need to reuse the T-slot cutters for cutting the bolt lug slots. You would also need enough vertical travel on your mill to plunge the barrel hole. Another option for the barrel hole would be to make a jig to hold the receiver in a 4-jaw lathe chuck.

There could still be a clearance problem for smaller mills when cutting the buttstock hole. The best solution would probably be to drill the corners with a handdrill or drillpress, cut between the holes, then clean up with a grinding stone. A slitting or screw slotting saw could also be used to connect the corners because the setup would allow the piece to stay horizontal on the table.

Once my stock was squared off and milled to desired width, I think my first steps would be to machine everything that's parallel to the top rails. This would be cuts for the recoil spring, top cover, carrier stop, RSB, and down into the receiver. I'd have to look at the milled barrel stub I've got to see what would be next.

I don't think milling a receiver would be terribly difficult, I just think it would take lots and LOTS of machine time and careful measurement.
 
#11 ·
George called today and I liked his idea of milling flat plate, setting it in a jig like the one for weld packs, and tig the corners.
 
#13 ·
Winn R said:
George called today and I liked his idea of milling flat plate, setting it in a jig like the one for weld packs, and tig the corners.
Yes that's basically what I was saying - a "weld pack" milled receiver.

Question about the weld seams - I was thinking that milling a slot or dovetail in the corners would make it even stronger - not a cabinet dovetail, but more like a notch is all. Or is that a non-issue considering the strength of a weld?
 
#14 ·
Jerry--That seems like a reasonable way to do it.

The weld packs I've done (3) and welded lasers didn't lack for strength -- generally I didn't bother putting in the center pin.

With thinner materials, the trick's the little strips at the mag well -- ain't it always!
My guess would be to leave extra there and mill it out afterwards.
 
#15 ·
I just went out and miced a milled receiver to see what sort of thickness the stock would need to be.

.200 inches will do everything except the ejector and, of course, the trunnion locking lugs. I like, was it Ryan's idea, to put the lower rails in separately.

The bottom plate can be done in two pieces with the side wall thickness being equal to the area outside of the mag well opening.
 
#16 ·
What about investment castings to make an AK receiver? This way you don't need to machine the rails since they'll be cast into the receiver.
Ruger uses this process to make their Mini 14 receivers and make investment castings for other customers (including non firearms and AR-15 receivers).
I'm a mechanical engineer and would like to get feedback on this method from someone familiar with the process. maybe we can get some made up in either steel or aluminum.
:biggun:
Die terrorist scum!!
 
#17 ·
Castings are set up for AR's and Fal's and are fairly cheap.

I imagine comparisons are made with the cost of stamped AK receivers and the decision is made not to pursue the issue. A milled AK receiver is more expensive than either of the others, my guess would be an 80% casting selling for less than $100 would be a hit in the market.
 
#18 ·
here here...dont forget about the SKS, G3 and MP5 receivers too... Those would also sell like hotcakes, especially SKS receivers (mostly for SKS pistols..yummy) I like the idea of weld together milled plates, I have long said the same thing about an AR-15 for people w/a welder that are more comfortable w/welding than machining. Something like a 4 piece AR-15 lower in steel to MIG together. Do the same w/the AK and you'd be rich. Im too busy and a little too lazy to undertake something like that, but it would be a worthy project indeed.
 
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