Duplicating the Russian Laminated Wood Finishes? - Page 3
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Thread: Duplicating the Russian Laminated Wood Finishes?

  1. #21
    Black Gas's Avatar
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    just want to mention, i picked up some iodine at the drug store and tried it, refinishing some blonde bulgie wood.

    The stuff is absolutely gorgeous. It starts out that yellowish color, after a couple of coats it turns into that rich orange finish that looks just like some the pieces on tantals site, and ones i've handled. Keep going, and you get a deep reddish vermillion like other ones on his site. Grain stays shiny and catches the light, unlike stains i've tried.

    I won't use any other stain ever again.

    After its dried, i use Tru Oil. Its an oil finish that looks like a perfect glossy polyeurothane/shellac coating. Rock solid as it soaks into the wood over many coats. Also comes with satin sheen treatment, if you want to get rid of the gloss.

    I'll post pics in a bit.

    For a real russian set, i would send it to z-recto.

  2. #22
    Broncodarts's Avatar
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    Try this on for size. Z just got these done for me. For an RPK that I am going to build in the next couple of months.


    RPK
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...sc/DSC04576.jpg
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...sc/DSC04577.jpg

  3. #23
    Gunco Veteran ohmysac's Avatar
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    I think i'd try the garnet shellac, and then once i have a few good coats of that on i'd go for a few coats of behrs tung oil right over it. That should yield a highly attractive and durable finish.

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  5. #24
    Gunco Regular Carb850's Avatar
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    Will the tung oil penetrate the shellac?
    Member #198

  6. #25
    Gunco Member Z_recto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carb850
    Will the tung oil penetrate the shellac?
    No.

    sac,
    If you are insistant on using tung oil put it on the wood first and then put the shellac over that.
    The oil will penetrate the wood and sucessive coats will build up.
    If you want the color of the shellac, and it is NOT birch lamiante wood, try a pigment or dye stain first and then finish it with the oil.
    If it is birch laminate, then get some DYE stain and mix it with the shellac and that will give a Russian type finish.
    If you use RIT dye to make your stain, you better filter it at least 2-3 times to get all of the salts out if it.

  7. #26
    Gunco Veteran ohmysac's Avatar
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    Shellac is impervious to everything but water and alcohol. Oil builds just fine on top of it. Applying shellac this way is what they call a "spit coat" i think.

  8. #27
    Gunco Member Z_recto's Avatar
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    A spit coat is a very thin coat of shellac also called a sanding sealer. It is maily to seal the pores or to seal up pine knots so they will not bleed when painting.
    If you are going to try and use the shellac for color a spit coat is way to thin for this and if you put enough shellac to get color and then add oil to the top of that there is the posibility of the fihish chipping off when bumped.
    I would not use the oil over the shellac as the prupose of the oil finish is to penetrate into the wood not sit on top of it.
    The best thing to do is one or the other, not both, IMHO.

  9. #28
    Gunco Regular pupwag's Avatar
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    What is the best shellac in IYHO for said Ruskie laminate treatment?Thanks .

  10. #29
    Gunco Member Z_recto's Avatar
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    The one I can do for you

    If you want to try it your self the chapest way to go is to get some Zinnser Bullseye shellac from Lowes/Home Depot, some denatured alcohol, and some RIT dyes.
    Dissolve the RIT in the alcohol and then strain to remove the salts.
    Add the dye to a small amount of the shellac and start finsihing.
    This is not the best way, but it is the cheapest and it would porbably run you about $20 or so.

  11. #30
    Gunco Regular pupwag's Avatar
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    I have a small selection of TransTint dye stain colors(a lifetime supply)Just wondering if one shellac or tint(clear,amber,etc)was better than another for this application.

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