Anyone tried home blueing - Page 8
Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 45678910 LastLast
Results 71 to 80 of 97

Thread: Anyone tried home blueing

  1. #71
    Gunco Regular Dirty Harry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    667
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    Rust blue just isn't working for me. I'm sourcing out the supplies for hot blue. I'm having trouble finding a pan large enough to do a barrel. Anyone in Indiana know of a source for pans? I haven't been able to find the Ammonia so I'm using Sodium Nitrate.
    Want to buy: Tantal Left and Right side selector parts.


    RRORC!
    I'm no sheep!

  2. #72
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Next door to my neighbors house in Michigan
    Posts
    3,411
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Brownells has them and I wouldn't be suprised if midway does too but I don't see them in their master catalog.

  3. #73
    Gunco Regular my-rifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    592
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)

    Default

    Perhaps you missed my post two posts above yours. Brownells has iron tanks for about $40 each.
    * This is My Rifle *

  4. Remove Advertisements
    Gunco.net
    Advertisements
     

  5. #74
    Gunco Regular Dirty Harry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    667
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    Iron tanks on the way, chems on hand, plenty of distilled water and as much vinegar; splash coat, face shield, thermometer (IR thermometer as well), spray bottle, iron wire. I still need to get TSP and a hot and cold water pan. Did I miss anything? Can anyone think or suggest any other supplies? What can or should I use to remove the coating from a Nodak Spud receiver and the blue from a factory job without sandblasting?
    Want to buy: Tantal Left and Right side selector parts.


    RRORC!
    I'm no sheep!

  6. #75
    Gunco Regular my-rifle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    592
    Feedback Score
    2 (100%)

    Default

    I bought one of those two-burner camp stoves to boil the water for de-greasing and post-bluing dilution. Everything else you'll find as you go along. Nothing critical. You can blue over existing bluing. I've done it, and it worked without a problem. You'll do fine.
    * This is My Rifle *

  7. #76
    Gunco Member weaponizer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    26
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Harbor freight has the 2 burner stoves on sale this week, for $24 and change, plus there is also a 15% coupon this week, good till July 21st...

  8. #77
    Gunco Regular Dirty Harry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    667
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default

    My blue came out nice on the NDS 5.56 receiver. I did a fair job of replicating the brushed or scratched look of a factory receiver. I did however get some dark spots if you hold the receiver in the right light. I don't know if it was a water spot or oil in the metal. Decided to strip it with muriatic acid, giving it a long soak in acetone and then re-blueing. I'm not messing with TSP this time. All I got was cloudy water and when I rinsed it in clean hot water it turned cloudy. If ya look closely you can see one of the dark spots between the selector hole and hammer pin hole.



    As a side note, the other receiver was as dark as I could get using rust blue.
    Want to buy: Tantal Left and Right side selector parts.


    RRORC!
    I'm no sheep!

  9. #78
    Gunco Regular bsouthnow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Spartanburg SC
    Posts
    445
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Hey Guys;
    For those of you bluing with lye and nytrate, here is a tip which took me a while to figure out. Heat the mixture to 280 - 290 degrees F. It will heat to this temperature only after it boils off some of the water. Keep the burner set the same during the process. When it starts getting too hot, too much water has boiled off so slowly and I mean slowly and carefully, add more water from a stainless dipper poured slowly and again I mean slowly down the side of the tank then stir. The temp will drop back into range. Don't let it get too hot or it will destroy the salts. Be careful, this shit will hurt if it gets on you.
    Bottom line is you control the temp by controlling the salt mix. If the solution will not get hot enough, add more lye. Never had to add more nitrate. When finished and it has cooled down, add enough water to bring the level back up to the starting line and store in a plastic gasoline can marked for bluing salts. Be careful.
    Bill
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Bill from Spartanburg

    Be like an old dog!!!! If you can't eat it or screw it, just piss on it and walk away!!!!

  10. #79
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    7,794
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nkluksda View Post

    That link is dead but Archive.org has a copy of it but I can't seem to find the pics yet:

    Instructions:

    Homemade Hot Blue Formula
    Courtesy of Blair Emory
    [my comments in brackets - KM]

    All "bluing" is really blacking. The blue shine is due to additional chemicals such as manganese that are added to the mix. They are usually less abrasion resistant than blacking and perforce are thinner to give the blue refraction. They are a lot fussier to do and the results vary more than straight blacking on different metal alloys and heat treatment in my experience. I generally use a lye, fertilizer mix that gives the hardest blacking I have ever seen and it so simple anyone can do it, plus the ingredients are available at the hardware store rather than paying UPS hazardous shipment fees.
    • The mix ratio is 5 lb lye (sodium hydroxide) to 2 1/2 lb ammonium nitrate (fertilizer), to 1 gallon water.
    • Grocery store lye [I use Red Devil] and ammonium nitrate fertilizer (at least 30%). Make sure you are buying actual ammonium nitrate; many brands today are made from urea or some other source. Make sure to not use tap water. Buy distilled.
    • If ammonium nitrate is not obtainable, sodium nitrate can be substituted at the same ratio.
    • Mix out doors as lots (and I mean LOTS) of ammonia gas evolves and will rot your lungs out if you sniff it. Wear goggles as this stuff foams and bubbles like mad. Very violent exothermic reaction. Mix in a iron pail (not galvanized). [I use a 16qt enameled stock pot.] Once mixed and operating the bath, there is no off gassing, but the vapors are corrosive so don't do it in your gun room or machine shop. Use plenty of ventilation. [I added water first, then added 1lb of lye and alternated with fertilizer. Add slowly to avoid boilover. Also, use a full face shield and a respirator that will filter out ammonia.] After mixing, the solution will be over 100 degrees due to the heat of the reaction.
    • Bath operates at 285 to 295 degree F. If you don't have a thermometer, heat until a sample part will just sizzle cold water. [I use a steel deep fry thermometer. Make sure the one you buy will reach the bottom of your pot. I also use a propane deep fryer kit.] Takes 15 to 45 min. depending on the steel and how dense a film you want. [I removed my gun after 20 minutes.]
    • Suspend the parts with wire to keep them away from the bottom and sides of the pot. Ideally you want to have a vigorously boiling solution surrounding the parts on all sides. If they get into a hot spot, you will often see red smut on the parts, or it may impart a plum color to the blue. Small parts can be strung together with iron wire or placed into a steel basket.
    • After you are done, take parts out, rinse in clean hot water. [I like to have a smaller pot of water near boiling to rinse the parts. This is the best way to wash away the lye, which will begin to congeal as it cools.] Dry and oil. You are ready to go. If you don't like the depth of color after it's dry, (but before you oil it) just put it back in the bath and cook it some more.
    • Bath will do 10 to 15 jobs before you have to add about 1 lb lye to a 5 gal bath to make up for boil off. Add water as required to keep the concentrations correct, but this does not seem critical.
    • You MUST add enough water at bath cool down, to more than make up for boil off or it will solidify and you can't re-melt easy. If you add too much, I will just boil off next time. [This stuff takes several hours to cool back down. Once it gets hot, it really stays hot.]
    • Make sure the parts are clean. Any oil will ruin the bath and job. Boil parts in TSP, Oakite or such first. [I found some TSP at Home Depot. Be sure you have wiped away any water spots, or they will show up under the bluing.]
    • Store in glass or plastic jugs between use, if it crystalizes , it is shot.
    • You do not have to plug the bore as the magnitite film is harder than the steel and, if anything, should improve it. Possibly a little chemical milling too. I have made test coupons and put them in an open beaker of water for a month with no corrosion. Even light sanding will not break down the surface.
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

  11. #80
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    7,794
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pupwag View Post
    I 've seen that one.He's doing a Ruger pistol in a wok.I'll look somemore..It is over on Roderus,top sticky in the finishing forum..........iB::Topic::Hot blue my way, step by step
    The new redirect is here:

    iB::Topic::Hot blue my way, step by step
    Gunco Member #10

    http://pookieweb.net


    The "original" Boltcutter Rivet Squeezers:
    http://pookieweb.net/AK/rivet/boltcutters/boltcutter.htm


    Project Pink - the Pink and Blue AK-74:
    http://pookieweb.net/pink/pink.htm

Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 45678910 LastLast

Search tags for this page

There are currently no search engine referrals.
Click on a term to search our site for related topics.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •