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Thread: Aluma-Hyde II

  1. #21
    Trotsky's Avatar
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    Maybe this will help... I use Flat 2400 GK, Flat 1600F GK, AND Satin 1600F GK...

    - the flat 2400 looks like a Black Park Job... fairly dull, great on certain AKs
    - the 1600F "Flat" is a Matte Black... close to the AMD65 original finish.
    - the 1600S "Satin" is a Glos black - dead ringer for Hungarian Gloss Black...

  2. #22
    Administrator sniper69's Avatar
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    has anyone tried to cure alumahyde II in an oven? I am curious if a warm oven (lowest oven setting) would cure the paint quicker.

  3. #23
    Gunco Veteran Toten Kopf's Avatar
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    The instructions are pretty clear on how to use it and there's no mention of heating in an oven. The instructions do say that if you put the painted part in and around 90 degree flowing air it will cure quicker, like maybe in 3 days.

    In my opinion the product just isn't worth the trouble.

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  5. #24
    Gunco Regular pupwag's Avatar
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    Well,Toten Kopf please let us know how it works out.I was about to order some of the KG 1600 series to do this new Bulgy 74 kit.If Trotsky is right I will probably need the F/Matte since the gloss is less than the AMD.Thanks guys.

  6. #25
    Dzerzhinsky's Avatar
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    There was a thread at Brand X some time ago where a fellow tried baking Alumahyde II and it screwed it up.

    Toten Kopf, I don't see where Alumahyde II is that much trouble. You've got to degrease with any sort of finish. Only bother I see with Alumahyde II is that, for me, the 90-degree deal means that I can only use it during the Summer. And that after I'm done I just need to be patient and let it set (but doing nothing has never been trouble for me).

  7. #26
    Gunco Veteran Toten Kopf's Avatar
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    The bar stock that I test painted was degreased using Gun Scrubber. The "trouble" I was refering to was the complete process of preparing, painting and waiting for the Aluma-Hyde II to cure, two weeks...and then to have Gun Scrubber easly remove the paint. To much time for to little results.

    GunKote is quicker, the finish is harder and Gun Scrubber doesn't harm it. The GunKote I'm using now (circa 1994) isn't a match for any AK finish but would rather have that than a painted finish that comes off with a cleaning solvent. See the picture below. You can notice the difference in color between the receiver (GunKote painted) and any other part of the rifle. The GunKote just isn't as shiny as the origninal. Oh, I can use GunKote anytime of the year because it's cured in an oven.

    As I have stated before, my first choice is to black phosphate the gun...looks very good and has good corrosion resistance. But I don't have access to a bead blaster so the phosphating will have to wait.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #27
    Trotsky's Avatar
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    Toten Kopf? Pick up some of KG's KPHOS as well... you don't need much, but the stuff is GREAT if you're going over non blasted metal...

  9. #28
    Gunco Veteran Toten Kopf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trotsky
    Toten Kopf? Pick up some of KG's KPHOS as well... you don't need much, but the stuff is GREAT if you're going over non blasted metal...
    I was going to get some but since the KG coating is only temporary (until I can bead blast) I decided not to spend the money. Hope it wasn't a mistake. Thanks for the info...
    Last edited by Toten Kopf; 12-27-2004 at 03:19 PM. Reason: Correct Text

  10. #29
    Dzerzhinsky's Avatar
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    Alumahyde II comes off with Gun Scrubber? Thankfully, I've never used Gun Scrubber. Anyone know what other solvents it'll come off with?

  11. #30
    Gunco Member Gunny302nd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trotsky
    Toten Kopf? Pick up some of KG's KPHOS as well... you don't need much, but the stuff is GREAT if you're going over non blasted metal...
    What is the significance of KPHOS when painting? KG's website says it's a temporary corrosion preventor. Do you rub KPHOS on and then paint over it?

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