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Discussion Starter #1
After using the spot welder (on my AMD-63 build) as I had modified it the original lower tong tip came unsoldered (I used low temp solder...bad). I was thinking about using a higher temp solder when I remembered reading that someone (??) used a MIG tip. So I bought a package (about $4.50 for the .030" hole) and updated my lower tong with the new tip. Since the MIG tip has a threaded end I used a nut to hold it in place. I did have to chuck the tip in my drill press to remove some material (I used a file while the press was running on the non-threaded end) so that the both tips closed on the lower rails correctly.

The test results were very good. The picture of the spot welds doesn't do justice for the job. The welds are quite smooth. Also it seems like the little hole in the MIG tip doesn't cause any problems. I give the MIG tip idea a thumbs-up!!
 

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I picked up my 115volt spot welder on tuesday and started to modify it tonight. I took the lower tong and cut it at the elbow. I then grinded it down flat and drilled it then tapped it to 5/16 - 18. The original tip threaded right on. I went down on the underside and grinded it down along the tube about 4-5 inches in length. It still needs fitted inside the receiver to make sure it will fit. I did try it on some scrap metal and worked like a charm. Tomorrow I will fit it on the inside of the receiver and post some picks. I thought I read an earlier post of heat treating the rails and x,y axis 1st then welding the rails in.
 

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Heres what I did with the lower tong. Instead of buying a new piece of copper to modify, I modified the original one. Cut it at the elbow and started grinding. The upper tong was not cut at all. I used a 5/16 - 18 tap to re-thread the hole. I tried it last night on some scrap metal. I'm not sure of thickness but was thicker than a AK flat. I held it 3 seconds and made 2 welds on it. It held, but I could knock it apart afterwards. The lower metal I was welding got bright red when I stopped the trigger. I know 3-4 seconds would work great on the AK Flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is a fantastic site. I just love how everyone has a way in dealing with problems and helps everyone by posting their solutions. Great job to 7.62X39 (another post about the same thing) and mbadboyz.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mbadboyz said:
How long should you hold the trigger down for on a 115volt spot welder?
I use 3 seconds, more like just counting 1, 2, 3. and then letting go of the switch. I always practice on scrap metal before I start on the good stuff just to make sure I have the rythum down.

Hope this helps.
 

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I used scraps from kits and xtra stock from upper rail from a Bent Metal receiver blank and played with different times, I also discovered that holding the pressure on the tongs after the welding is finished for a few seconds made a difference in the welds.
 

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Although the correct tap size is 8mmx1.25 it appears from MBad's post 5/16x18 will work in a pinch.

I agree that a three count seems to be about right.
 

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Well......spot welded one receiver today. Very intimidating procedure! It turned out pretty good. I didnt know you had to hold down on the tongs pretty snug as your burning.
Should get better on the next ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some added information concerning the use of mig tips.

As I use the tips for spot welding, I discovered the following; the mig tips have a rounded end (where the wire comes out). This rounded tip is not the greatest for making contact when spot welding. So I chuck the tip in a drill press and use a file to flatten the tip.

Also, the mig tips work best when you use it for only one set of lower rails. I use a total of 9 spot welds on the lower rails, 4 spot welds on the LH rail and 5 spot welds on the RH rail. If used for more than 9 welds the mig tip might melt (I said might) and you could get a poor weld. Anyway, I look at changing the tip as cheap insurance to ensure that I get a good spot weld for the lower rails.
 

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What about moding a small copper bolt for the tip? Anyone try that yet?

This is one of my next purchases as well. I was going to screw my rails in, but I keep hearing of all the trouble. Between this and Pookies rivet smoosher making and AK is simple now. I got a drill press and all the other tools needed for doing a prebent blank.

I remember when there was no one that would tell you how they did this stuff...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SangRun Hunter said:
What about moding a small copper bolt for the tip? Anyone try that yet?

This is one of my next purchases as well. I was going to screw my rails in, but I keep hearing of all the trouble. Between this and Pookies rivet smoosher making and AK is simple now. I got a drill press and all the other tools needed for doing a prebent blank.

I remember when there was no one that would tell you how they did this stuff...
I remember reading about someone who used a copper bolt. As I recall, the bolt melted very badly after a couple of hits with the spot welder. Might have been using a 230VAC spot welder. The 115VAC spot welder is probably the best for this application. So far, the mig tip is the best solution I've found. Easy to buy, easy use, easy to replace. I guess you'd say it's easy...LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Shortrnd said:
Can you post some pics of the receiver that you spot welded? I'm curious to see how good these spot welders work.
Here you go...
 

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Your welds look way better than the ones I do. I guess I just need more practice. I always have a little to grind of when finished. Not on all of them just a couple on each side. They work though and once painted, you cant even tell.

Very nice job TK!!!
 

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I just got finished playing around with mine. It seems as if I cant hold the switch very long or it will burn through. I'm just using 1001 count and thats it. The welds dont look that bad for a rookie. Let me see if I can post a pic or two. Kevin.
 

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ak-kev said:
I just got finished playing around with mine. It seems as if I cant hold the switch very long or it will burn through. I'm just using 1001 count and thats it. The welds dont look that bad for a rookie. Let me see if I can post a pic or two. Kevin.
I bought the 220v version when it was on sale. It will burn through if I hold the switch any more than a quick second!!!
 

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I have a 220 volt HF spot welder and if I clamp the metal loosly then it burns through in about a second but if I clamp it thight in the thongs then I can burn for about 2.5 sec. with a good weld and no burn through
 

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I have the 115v and it wants to burn through on 1001 as well. I dont think you need anything stronger than that. You have to have a different outlet for a 220v.
 

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I also changed the shape of my tips to give them a larger surface area and make the spot welds look more correct, I have seen both the 110 and 220v welders in action and with-a-doubt the 110 works just fine. But I'm still glad I got the 220 in case I want to weld something thicker or stainless. Always nice to have plenty of power.
 

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mbadboyz said:
George!!! Where you been man? You changed your avitar too. Good to see ya.
I have been lurking. I am on the road and can't spend too much time on the boards. I have been tinkering with Sten guns latey. Took a break from AKs until I get back home. I will then concentrate on the Bulgarian side folders.
 

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Steelcore1964 said:
I also changed the shape of my tips to give them a larger surface area and make the spot welds look more correct, I have seen both the 110 and 220v welders in action and with-a-doubt the 110 works just fine. But I'm still glad I got the 220 in case I want to weld something thicker or stainless. Always nice to have plenty of power.
I am going to try the MIG welder tips and see how they work.
 
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