[scubadvr]

Hey guys, I have finally had it with spray paint cans (never got into the graffiti thing) and want to purchase an air brush. I know nothing about them. I have a large compressor that makes the volume of air a non issue. Do you have any recommendations for something to shoot moly resin? Thanks Jack

 

[MAJOR PITA]

I hope I don't step all over your thread too badly, but I used to build model tanks when I was a teenager and young adult, and airbrushing is a whole 'nuther field.

Kind of like some people spend so much time reloading that they never get to shoot, airbrushing is a skill all its own.

I found out early on that airbrushing is a skill that can take as much time, effort, and practice as any other hobby. I compare it to learning a musical instrument. You just don't pick up the thing for the first time and expect it to do what you want.

Having said that (and I hope I didn't just spew a bunch of stuff you weren't asking about), a rule of thumb is that the more expensive and versatile equipment really is better.

You can buy anything from a cheap unit that won't do much, all the way up to a professional grade airbrush that will literally draw anything you want.

You don't say anything about using it for camo patterns, but on a firearm I see that as the most useful job for an airbrush.

Oh, and the worst thing about airbrushes: you have to clean 'em every time you change colors. You have to thin the paint or whatever just right. If it's too thin it won't cover the object well; if it's too thick it will clog the airbrush. The thinness of paint required can also change from one type and one brand of paint versus another (although I make it sound worse than it is).

Just my humble two cents.

 

[scubadvr]

I hope I don't step all over your thread too badly, but I used to build model tanks when I was a teenager and young adult, and airbrushing is a whole 'nuther field.

Kind of like some people spend so much time reloading that they never get to shoot, airbrushing is a skill all its own.

I found out early on that airbrushing is a skill that can take as much time, effort, and practice as any other hobby. I compare it to learning a musical instrument. You just don't pick up the thing for the first time and expect it to do what you want.

Having said that (and I hope I didn't just spew a bunch of stuff you weren't asking about), a rule of thumb is that the more expensive and versatile equipment really is better.

You can buy anything from a cheap unit that won't do much, all the way up to a professional grade airbrush that will literally draw anything you want.

You don't say anything about using it for camo patterns, but on a firearm I see that as the most useful job for an airbrush.

Oh, and the worst thing about airbrushes: you have to clean 'em every time you change colors. You have to thin the paint or whatever just right. If it's too thin it won't cover the object well; if it's too thick it will clog the airbrush. The thinness of paint required can also change from one type and one brand of paint versus another (although I make it sound worse than it is).

Just my humble two cents.

No problem, thanks for the info. I just want to get away from the rattle can thing. I wont be doing anything special just one application coating. Jack

 

[hcpookie]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47791

AIR BRUSH KIT
Includes: Fine head air brush, 5 ft. vinyl hose, 3/4 oz. and 1.5 oz. jars with lids, propel regulator, 1/4''-18 NPT, air brush body with finger valve
ITEM 47791
$9.99

This is basically what I used to apply the Duracoat paint finish to my AKs.

 

[F-Troop]

Harbor freight airbrush


I just bought that unit at a Harbor Freight store. Has anyone had luck using it for Gun-Kote?

If so, what are your recommendations for thinning the Gun-Kote?

 

[Rhino_66]

I bought the same airbrush a week ago at HF when it was on sale for $4.99.

The KGCoatings site says to use acetone or MEK to clean up with. They say to use MEK for thinning the Gun Kote (#11 on the list).

http://www.kgcoatings.com/gun-kote/trouble.html

http://www.kgcoatings.com/gun-kote/application.html

I would really like to see what the Gun Metal Blue looks like.

 

[sks_hunter]

5 bucks... how can they make em for that?

 

[Rhino_66]

Ancient CHINESE secret.

They also have digital multimeters for $2.99

 

[Bluejack]

I think my family make these
:chinese:

 

[7.62x39]

I just bought that unit at a Harbor Freight store. Has anyone had luck using it for Gun-Kote?

If so, what are your recommendations for thinning the Gun-Kote?

I would like to know this also.
I ordered one of these last week, but I have not received it yet.
I plan on trying Gun-Kote as well.

 

[Toten Kopf]

Years ago I also made and painted models (aircraft). With all the different types of camo I needed an airbrush that would do just about anything. I bought the Paasche Airbrush (model H#). I think I payed about $40.00 at the time (1978). The kit I bought included three different tips for different spray patterns along with the tips were 3 nozzle caps. H-1 for a very fine pattern, H-3 for small pattern and the H-5 for a medium to large spray pattern. The airbrush also included stipple capability.

I also added a small inline water separator to prevent condensation from mixing with the paint (learned about this the hard way). In addition to the filter I added a small pressure regulator to the airline so that I could adjust the pressure from 5-30psi. I use about 20psi for GunKote and the H-5 nozzle and tip. The results are very nice, but as "MAJOR PITA" said you will need to practice for final results.

I don't know what the HF airbrush is like or if it has different tips to use but to me, having the ability to change the spray pattern is most important. As well as having replacement parts available. Check out different airbrush models, don't just go by price.

 

[Rhino_66]

The Harbor Freight airbrush that I bought was a REALLY cheap single action piece with only a single nozzle. I was told that a high-end or even moderate airbrush was an un-needed expense just to spray moly-resin finishes. The airbrush is recommended because of the fine control and less overspray (less wasted paint). Even the cheapest airbrush is capable of much more control than a spray can.

If I were even moderately graced with artistic talent, I wouldn't even give the HF airbrush a second glance. I'd spend some money on a double-action Badger or Paasche set and work from there.

For strictly spraying the moly-resin, I think the cheapo airbrush will be fine (especially for $5). For any fine detail work, forget it.

 

[Rhino_66]

Hey Rhino I can't find this $5 airbrush Put a link up before you start work at Dionne
Warwick and Friends psychic network. Just thought I'd throw that in so the guys know what you do. [LMAO] Don't be mad just haven fun.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47791

The price is back up to $9.99. A week or so ago, this airbrush was $4.99. Harbor Freight runs sales frequently you have to check the internet and sale flyers. If you find a sale online, print a copy of the page and take it with you. A battery charger I bought was listed at $7.49 online and wasn't on sale at the local HF store. They will honor the online or flyer price, but you have to show it to them.

The psychic network joke is because I blatantly and repeatedly "stated the obvious" in an e-mail about the 1911 that Cephus just acquired. I just repeated some data that I looked up on a few sites. We both thought funny at the time...

 

[Trotsky]

Get a Paasche single action... Go to Dick Blick art supply for this, and get the little blue AB compressor while you are at it. You'll spend about $135.

I've done over 18 guns with mine... it just keeps on working - with GunKote, KPhos, Duracoat.... always perfect, always predictable