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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I finally painted 2 test strips of Aluma-Hyde II in Semi-gloss and Flat. The pupose was to see which was closer to the AMD-65 build I'm doing.

The results are neither one is even close to the AMD. The semi-gloss is to shiny and the flat is well, to flat. Both are definately more black that the 1994 GunKote I was using, it had a kinda brownish-black color (could be the age). The AMD paint is like in between the two, maybe semi-flat...LOL

Since I just sprayed the paint I will have to wait a week or two till it cures. I'm hoping that if I oil the flat it might and I said might turn out to be a closer match to the AMD black.

What's next? Maybe Norrell's moly resin paint. I hate to spend $28.00 just to find out. I just wish I had access to a bead blaster so I could do my black phosphate, it always looked good.
 

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Why dont you just paint everything including the barrel with the gloss aluma-hyde 2? I am currently painting an AMD build myself and I have everything except for the barrel painted. I think it turned out nice and it all matches. Im sure when the AMD's were brand new they were more glossy than they are now. You dont like the glossy look? Were you not planning on painting the whole weapon? Just the receiver to match?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
mbadboyz said:
Why dont you just paint everything including the barrel with the gloss aluma-hyde 2? I am currently painting an AMD build myself and I have everything except for the barrel painted. I think it turned out nice and it all matches. Im sure when the AMD's were brand new they were more glossy than they are now. You dont like the glossy look? Were you not planning on painting the whole weapon? Just the receiver to match?
I was planing on painting the receiver only, from what I've read on different posts some said that the semi-gloss was a match and others said that the flat was a match. Well, neither is. And the difference between the two is dramatic. I don't know if I like either one to paint the receiver, let alone the entire rifle. To me the semi-gloss is to glossy, I can't imagine what the gloss would look like.

I don't understand why someone doesn't import the damn stuff so we can finish the rifles like they were originally.
 

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I am going to try the Norrell semi gloss this afternoon on some 65 parts.The flat was too flat.Increasing the preheat temp is supposed to dull the sheen some.I'll post the results of my experiment.
 

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I've used the flat on several rifles. Found that the distance I spray from determines the shine that the flat has. At 12-14" dull flat, at 6" a more smooth and dark color.

Had to due a repair to my Cetme, which I've read are powder coated. At 6" I can't tell a differance from the AHII and powder coat.

If you oil the AH2 while it is curing it makes the paint cure longer and doesn't change the appearance. I tried it and the rifle took 10 weeks before it was hard.
 

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Well it matches the rear sight block pretty close.Close to the rec cover but not quite.The Moly gives it just a glint of that graphite grey..It required decanting the paint to about 75% of original volume and three coat/cure cycles with the last coat really hosed at it from back a foot to get some dry texture.Way too much work.The flat black was a simple one coat deal and looked like a perfect park,I'd do a whole gun with it in a minute it just don't match the AMD
 

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Toten Kopf said:
I was planing on painting the receiver only, from what I've read on different posts some said that the semi-gloss was a match and others said that the flat was a match. Well, neither is. And the difference between the two is dramatic. I don't know if I like either one to paint the receiver, let alone the entire rifle. To me the semi-gloss is to glossy, I can't imagine what the gloss would look like.

I don't understand why someone doesn't import the damn stuff so we can finish the rifles like they were originally.
I use the semi alumahyde 2 and I just paint the entire weapon. I read somewhere that the semi was a pretty close match so thats why I bought it and it really isnt. Im glad you tried the flat and tested it. I might buy some of the flat and use it on the entire weapon. I dont think we will be able to match it for just painting the receiver only.
 

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One of the AMD 65's I got was a real glossy black. It was one of the first ones from Centerfire and it was like new. I have others with various degrees of shine. I am trying some new stuff I got called appliance epoxy spray paint. It is glossy but no more so than my first 65. It's only been on a day but it seems tough as hell and the price per can was around $5 Will know more in a few days
 

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AH2 users?? Are you letting it cure in warm temperature?(inside house) Or in a cool inviroment?(garage). I live in GA and the first one I did I brought it to my room and hung it. It seemed like it took about 2 weeks to cure before you could touch it. The next one I did I put it down in the garage where it is a bit cooler and it seemed to dry (to a touch) much faster in about 5 days. What do you think is better?
 

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When I've used the AH2 it's always been winter. I paint the parts in my basement that has average temp of 65-67 degrees. The fumes are so bad that I open the windows to air the place out for about 2 hrs. Outside temp has ranged from 20-35 degrees. For the first 5 or 6 hours I run a space heater under the parts that are hanging from a wire. After 24 hrs I can delicately handle the parts but a little tacky where the paint is thickest. 3 days and I can assemble. On one build I couldn't wait to go to the range and shoot and at 7 days the paint on the barrel bubble due to heat. I now wait a full two weeks and have had no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, I let it cure for 2 weeks and tested it with oils, no problem. Tested it with Gun Scrubber and the color changed. Rubbed a little more with GunScrubber and it removed the paint.

It might be good for some small parts that won't see much wear or exposure to solvents, but for me I won't use it.

Gun Kote is much better for use on firearms and in my experiance does not come off with Gun Scrubber. Might be the bake-on finsih.

Aluma-Hyde II...I definately give it a thumbs down.
 

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I haven't yet used Alumahyde II to refinish an entire weapon, but I've had good results with it. You need to scrupulously degrease, use it when everything is around 90 degrees, and let it sit to set for a least a week when you're done. But is is glossier than I had expected.
 

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AHII goes on too thick to use on an entire pistol or rifle. If you use it on parts that rub it'll be a mess. I'll second Toten Kopf, I've seen brake cleaner melt AHII. It's suitable for plastic parts that can't be baked. I use Molyresin and have had zero problems with it. Gunkote is a fine product as well.
 

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Toten Kopf said:
Well, I let it cure for 2 weeks and tested it with oils, no problem. Tested it with Gun Scrubber and the color changed. Rubbed a little more with GunScrubber and it removed the paint.

It might be good for some small parts that won't see much wear or exposure to solvents, but for me I won't use it.

Gun Kote is much better for use on firearms and in my experiance does not come off with Gun Scrubber. Might be the bake-on finsih.

Aluma-Hyde II...I definately give it a thumbs down.
It says on the can for best results let it set up for something like 3-6 weeks? I dont use gun scrubber, so I dont think Ill have a problem with it. For the amount of use that my weapons will see, AH2 is awesome. I would like to try the GunKote and bake it afterwards for the best results. I have a can on order right now.
 

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Toten Kopf - dead on. I'll use rattle can stuff like this on non serious parts... but the only time I used it on a Gun? I stripped it off with Acetone while wet - I could tell it was a loser for this purpose.... rough, spotty - clearly from a spray can.

For a Rifle? Use GunKote or MolyResin. Everything else says amature in large print - because you will be repainting within the year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ordered some GunKote From KG Metal Coating, the original black (2300)

http://www.kgcoatings.com/

After the fiasco using the Aluma-Hyde II (in Semi-gloss and Flat Black), I was hesitant to order the 1600 series satin black or the 2400 semi-gloss and flat black.

Maybe at a later date I'll try the GunKote 1600 Satin. Got to work up my nerve first.
 

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I've seen brake cleaner remove paint before. The list of ingredients included acetone, which is pretty much guaranteed to remove paint.
I'm surprised that gun scrubber did though.
Thanks TK!
 
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