anyone used southern trading?ELKMONT AL
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Rusty I wish you had asked or did a little searching around before you sent them your hard earned cash. I won't go into all of the sordid little details but suffice to say they burned me for $120.00, what they sent me was absolute garbage, and when I returned my stuff for a refund (with their blessings) I was told that "it must have gotten lost in the mail, as we never received it!". I have seen this same story played out many many times on other boards. It used to be that if you did a search on these jokers over at Tom Bower's Machine Gun Board you could get volumes of posts and none of them were good. I first found them on the AGI/Catco gunsmithing board and what I took for a positive feed back post on them was actually a carefully worded shameless plug for themselves, by themselves. Old Earl is a real piece of work, sorry it looks like you are probably going to find out the hard way and if you actually get what you paid for out of them, well then I would have to say that you are keeping some pretty rare company then. Good luck Bud 'cause you are going to need it. 
Take a look at this Tom Bower's
Take a look at this Tom Bower's
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thanks alot guys, iwish i knew about this website sooner. your a great help.
it would have saved me a lot of aggrivation.
rule .308 i couldnt find any recent complaints about earl. when did he screw you? ive contacted pay pal & demanded a refund. allsogave them the 'tom bowers' site and asked them to remove earl from their paypal acct.
after that its guns&money FK the lawyers!
ill keep you guys posted.
thanks again rusty
it would have saved me a lot of aggrivation.
rule .308 i couldnt find any recent complaints about earl. when did he screw you? ive contacted pay pal & demanded a refund. allsogave them the 'tom bowers' site and asked them to remove earl from their paypal acct.
after that its guns&money FK the lawyers!
ill keep you guys posted.
thanks again rusty
I used southern trading before. DIdnt have any problems-but that was awhile back. Its funny (well not really), how some of those sites change the way they conduct buisness- or lack there of. I placed an order with roundrockarmory over a month ago and never heard or seen anything in the mail from them...now it says the buisness is for sale. Go F'N figure. Nothing worse then getting burned online. People dont even have to look you in the eye and smile anymore when they're ripping you off.
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2,235 Posts
46. AK-47 80% receivers, with prints, bolt
rails installed, stock tank installed and
trigger guard installed $255.00 plus$10 .00
shipping
Doesn't sound like a 80% to me.
Hell for $370 I just bought 6 100% OOW receivers....
So who in the world would buy that "80%" receiver for that much?
rails installed, stock tank installed and
trigger guard installed $255.00 plus$10 .00
shipping
Doesn't sound like a 80% to me.
Hell for $370 I just bought 6 100% OOW receivers....
So who in the world would buy that "80%" receiver for that much?
well, i cant speak for anyone else but i personally just like to build stuff. im a carpenter by trade and im slowly learning to become a frustrated machinist!
15 years ago i built a sten mk II with a parts kit and blank reciever tube and have been hooked on kits ever since. on that project i used a newly purchased dremel,&hand file and primed and painted it battleship gray. it looked pretty cool if i do say so myself. it also WORKED! the only reason i ordered this 80% tube was because it was advertised as cheaper than a blank one! so i figured ,why not?
its for a mk III. ive since recieved it, and although this one gave me more trouble than the mk II. i was still able to build a beautiful firearm with a camo paint job that would make anybody proud. i have a couple of photos but im not sure how they will transfer to the net. my comp is not equipped but ill see what i can do about it another time. anyway, thats why i build, because i love firearms, i love to challenge myself and there is a pride that comes from making it yourself, changing the design,(i added 8 full rows of 5 to 4 barrel vent holes in my mk III.) that you can never ever get from opening a box. & talk about being intimately aquainted with your weapon! anyboby can buy a gun, but to build one? priceless.
15 years ago i built a sten mk II with a parts kit and blank reciever tube and have been hooked on kits ever since. on that project i used a newly purchased dremel,&hand file and primed and painted it battleship gray. it looked pretty cool if i do say so myself. it also WORKED! the only reason i ordered this 80% tube was because it was advertised as cheaper than a blank one! so i figured ,why not?
its for a mk III. ive since recieved it, and although this one gave me more trouble than the mk II. i was still able to build a beautiful firearm with a camo paint job that would make anybody proud. i have a couple of photos but im not sure how they will transfer to the net. my comp is not equipped but ill see what i can do about it another time. anyway, thats why i build, because i love firearms, i love to challenge myself and there is a pride that comes from making it yourself, changing the design,(i added 8 full rows of 5 to 4 barrel vent holes in my mk III.) that you can never ever get from opening a box. & talk about being intimately aquainted with your weapon! anyboby can buy a gun, but to build one? priceless.
damn right. I would love to see some pics. I never was able to get my sten to function(may be a blessing in disguise anyway). I think theres suppose to be some kind of coupling in the barrel to hold the rounds so the bolt can reach the rounds to make firing pin contact and extractor contact...but i dont know, all i got was the kit and the reciever blank.
nick, was it a mk II or III? it sounds like the barrel wasnt inserted all the way.
the breech must be in full contact with the rear bushing (that circle you attach with
the 7 rivets.) when viewed from the extractor port. it must look & fit like one solid piece. if there is the slightest gap between the two, the bolt will be stopped by the bushing before it can come into contact with the barrel, creating the exact problem you state. thats the problem with some templates. if they are off by even a little bit in crucial areas your screwd. but your problem is easy to fix. first, file down the 4 front rivits at the opposite end, near the barrel. then punch in the remainder so you can remove the front bushing. remove the barrel and clean both the outside bottom of the barrel and the part where it meets the rear bushing to make sure there are no bits of metal from the machining that would keep them from mating perfictly. then re insert bushing & barrel & while viewing the breech from the ejector slot. when it looks like one solid rounded piece and it can go no farther its done. your old holes, (if you can see them) should be slightly off now. thats good. find a way to hold the barrel assembly in place & tight while you drill 4 NEW HOLES right through the tubing & into the front bushing,then rivet.
note: carefull to make sure you dont hit the existing holes when you make your new ones or they will be too big & allow movement. then you can use some kind of filler,paste to fill in the 4 old holes in the tube & sand flush & no one willever know they were there after painting. ive used "instant muffeler solder" in the past its avail at most auto stores & seems to work well. but latley ive been trying "BONDO" with excellent results. i figure if its good enough for cars its good enough to hide cosmetic flaws on non stress parts. i even use it to "clean up" some of my welds after ive done all i could with the grinder & sanding. any way i hope this helps, because i suck at typing and it took over an hour to write this. when building stens in the future just ignore the front 4 holes and drill your own, clear through the tube and bushing, after fitting. p.s. instead of rivets i use machine set screws after drilling & tapping the holes. i find this gives a much nicer look in non stressful parts.
let me know how it goes! Rusty.
the breech must be in full contact with the rear bushing (that circle you attach with
the 7 rivets.) when viewed from the extractor port. it must look & fit like one solid piece. if there is the slightest gap between the two, the bolt will be stopped by the bushing before it can come into contact with the barrel, creating the exact problem you state. thats the problem with some templates. if they are off by even a little bit in crucial areas your screwd. but your problem is easy to fix. first, file down the 4 front rivits at the opposite end, near the barrel. then punch in the remainder so you can remove the front bushing. remove the barrel and clean both the outside bottom of the barrel and the part where it meets the rear bushing to make sure there are no bits of metal from the machining that would keep them from mating perfictly. then re insert bushing & barrel & while viewing the breech from the ejector slot. when it looks like one solid rounded piece and it can go no farther its done. your old holes, (if you can see them) should be slightly off now. thats good. find a way to hold the barrel assembly in place & tight while you drill 4 NEW HOLES right through the tubing & into the front bushing,then rivet.
note: carefull to make sure you dont hit the existing holes when you make your new ones or they will be too big & allow movement. then you can use some kind of filler,paste to fill in the 4 old holes in the tube & sand flush & no one willever know they were there after painting. ive used "instant muffeler solder" in the past its avail at most auto stores & seems to work well. but latley ive been trying "BONDO" with excellent results. i figure if its good enough for cars its good enough to hide cosmetic flaws on non stress parts. i even use it to "clean up" some of my welds after ive done all i could with the grinder & sanding. any way i hope this helps, because i suck at typing and it took over an hour to write this. when building stens in the future just ignore the front 4 holes and drill your own, clear through the tube and bushing, after fitting. p.s. instead of rivets i use machine set screws after drilling & tapping the holes. i find this gives a much nicer look in non stressful parts.
let me know how it goes! Rusty.
Man Rusty, that was a complete run down of exactly how to fix my little dilemma. MUCH OBLIGED. I got my hands full with 1911s right now but I'm definatly going to see if I can repair the sten in the future, following you instructions. Thanks a lot brother! BTW its a MKIII.
yagh, i figured it was a mk III. its been a long time, but i dont think thats an issue with the mkII's because they have a different front bushing system. id love to find a mkII kit somewhere. i havent seen them in awhile. they are well worth the extra money. if you know where to get one let me know.
ill also be working on a 1911 soon! got a great parts kit from sarco.
every single part including a brand new brazillian slide for $153.50 all of the parts are in excellent condition & look brand new. (frame not included)
im just waiting for my 80% frame. where did you get your parts from?
how are you gonna do the slide cuts? ill probably use the dremel method. wish i had access to a machine shop!
anyway, im glad to help out. do you have an e-mail adds? ill see if i can e-mail those photos. & maybe we can correspond about the 1911build without taking up all this forum space. GOOD LUCK rusty.
ill also be working on a 1911 soon! got a great parts kit from sarco.
every single part including a brand new brazillian slide for $153.50 all of the parts are in excellent condition & look brand new. (frame not included)
im just waiting for my 80% frame. where did you get your parts from?
how are you gonna do the slide cuts? ill probably use the dremel method. wish i had access to a machine shop!
anyway, im glad to help out. do you have an e-mail adds? ill see if i can e-mail those photos. & maybe we can correspond about the 1911build without taking up all this forum space. GOOD LUCK rusty.
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I hope for your sake when you built this sten you used a tube that was undersized and will not take the full auto bolt.You cannot legally build a open bolt anything. To make a sten semi auto you must use a undersize tube and a bolt with a unfixed firing pin. To do otherwise is looking for a sure ticket to the slammer for about 10 years and remember there is no time off for good behavor.Ten years means just that ten years.
:thankyou: hi Droog, thanks for the info, but at that time (over 15 years ago) actually, over 20 now that i think of it! da#n where does the time go?
i lived in a state that was very MG friendly & i was becoming a gunsmith & had all of the permision & legalities followed down to a T. in fact when i was tired of it i cut it into 5 pieces with a torch. all the Kings horses & all the kings men...
as for any advice i give on this or any other site, i always assume the person is complying with all laws in their build. if they make it clear they are not, you wont see my name in ANY of their posts! now i mostly build "dummies" anyway. more fun & challenging than crossword , jigsaw puzzles & im too old for erector sets
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Rusty.
i lived in a state that was very MG friendly & i was becoming a gunsmith & had all of the permision & legalities followed down to a T. in fact when i was tired of it i cut it into 5 pieces with a torch. all the Kings horses & all the kings men...
as for any advice i give on this or any other site, i always assume the person is complying with all laws in their build. if they make it clear they are not, you wont see my name in ANY of their posts! now i mostly build "dummies" anyway. more fun & challenging than crossword , jigsaw puzzles & im too old for erector sets
Rusty.
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2,120 Posts
Getting back to Southern trading, They had a lot of negative feedback on ebay when I had last checked. Lots of excuses for poor service. I would avoid doing buisiness with someone that cant keep their costomers happy.
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3 Posts
It took me 3-4 months before I received my 1911 80% receiver SS
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