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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bent a flat yesterday with a friend. it was the first one I had ever done. he made a very simpel fixture to bend it with. He thinks kind of like me, so the fixture is NOT over designed and complicated. it is the MOST simpal method I have seen yet. we did NOT push the flat into a slot with block, the problems I saw with that was honestly it seemed to me that it realy should have more than one slot to bend the flat in more than one pass. like qa set of dies.and then if it was tight enough to give a nice sharp corned on the bottom then it would be too tight going in. it seemed to me that the flat would streach or even sheer a little possably too. pushing it into a slot the finished diameter on the first pass , well it just seemed like it would be less stressfull to push up the entire side instead of sheering it only at the fold point.

instead of this method we wraped the flat around a block from the outside. useing a method similar to the way a brake works, supporting the side of the reciever as it goes up. we did both sides and had a prety nice corner. then we left the block in the reciever and went to the press. we set the reciever on its side and placed a 1/2" plate on top of it and pressed it tight, this gave us exact perfict corners. NO radious at all, instead , an exact 90 degree , I mean tight, final step was to use the same type bending method to fold the top rails down. we did not press them tight because of the angle to the bottom of the reciever so we will need to make a wedge block and we can press them tight too. but honestly they were tight enough for my likeing. I then tapped a little bit with a hammer through a hard plastic pad and they tightened up the the block perfict. then slide out the block. done.
no it was not my design or even my block but it is similar to my methods. "uncomplicated" Too simpal to go wrong, that is how we like it. :thumbup1: and results were number one. the only thing that required any real precision care was to place the flat on the block before locking it tight, and a few alignment pins would even make it so you could just about make a perfict reciever in your sleep. wow.. it is funny how sometimes another guy or often a new guy can look at something and see a totaly new method that is so much easyer way than the old standard.
great work , great idea, thanks for the use of your custom tool. :thankyou: :thankyou: :thankyou: :thankyou:


I do not think it is appropriate for me to post his name myself but he may post about the block himself later.

P.S. another reciever means what???? :eek:

ANOTHER KIT!!!!!!! :thumbup1:
 

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HB,

I hope you encourage your friend to post a pic.
We love to see different approaches to building these things.

Glad your's went well. What have you got in mind for a kit?
 

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Good deal Hotbarrel!! I also like simple (I like anything that works). This sounds like another post where a person rolled the receiver around something (the trunnions in that case). I second Max's appeal for pics!!
 

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7.62x39 said:
HB,

I hope you encourage your friend to post a pic.
We love to see different approaches to building these things.

Glad your's went well. What have you got in mind for a kit?
I have to agree with Max, please have your friend post pics or see if he will let you post pics. different approaches to building are what makes everything better for everyone (and it helps expand the learning curve quicker so we aren't all reinventing the wheel).

Also what kind of kit are you going to build, enquiring minds want to know.... :D
 

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OK, guys... it was me... I must confess.... I had thought about duplicating a jig like the ones I saw here, and that was my initial intent, and as I was making some of the plates for it, I thought... what if I just do this, and then I can do this, and voila... it's basically a piece of 1.245" X 5/8" stainless steel flatbar with a couple of recesses to fold the dimples into, and a recess on the under side to accept the magwell lip on a TAPCO flat. I also have a peice of 1-1/4" stainless square tube for the bottom half of the "sandwich".
I drilled 6 clearance holes, slightly larger than 3/8" along the length of the flatbar, aligning the holes to clear the holes in the flat... one on each end of the flat, one in the hole for the grip bushing, two in the magwell, and one in the hole for the trigger. I then laid the flatbar atop the square tube, and transferred the holes, drilling and tapping for 3/8" fine thread bolts. both the flatbar and the squre tube are about 13" long.
the notches for the dimples made in the flatbar were crudely made with a milling machine, (eyeball engineering) but can also be done with a grinder, dremel, or what have you, as well as the recess for the magwell lip. I left the entire width of the flatbar alone where it contacts the flat, and made the dimple notches about 1/8" up from there.
I took the flat, laid it on the square tube, and then laid the flat bar on top, then finger-tightened the bolts.
using a set of digital calipers from homier tools (15 bucks) I centered the receiverflat measuring off the sides of the flat bar, then tightened the piss out of the bolts, really locking the flat down tightly, then double-checked my measurements.
then put the sandwich in the vice, with one side of the receiver flat sticking straight up, and using a piece of 2x4 scrap and a 32 ounce ball-pien, began my assault. gently tapping, going back and forth, checking for straightness on each pass, I got the edge of the receiver bent to the side of the flatbar. I then used a little more force, with the edge of the wood block against the folded edge of the receiver, and hammered it square and tight.
Flipped it over, and repeated for the other side. I then had a channel, or a receiver with no top rails bent. flawless.
Next, I dismantled my sandwich, and, locking my calipers to the dimensions of the inside of the receiver, I scribed the inside where I wanted my bends. I took the flat bar, and stuck it back into the receiver, and clamped it down in the vice, using two heavy peices of 3" angle iron over the jaws of the vice. Using the wood block and same hammer, I then folded the top rails down to the flatbar, and hammered them in tight. done.
perfect dimensions, perfect, tight corners, no stretch, no scratches, and I didn't have to thrash it to get the flatbar out of the finished receiver.
I will bend one later today, and take pics of each step, and the "tool" so you guys can see it in action. maybe a little more labor intensive than the jig, but it also saved my ass from the chewing my wife would have put on it for spending another wadd of cash for a jig. I was almost embarrassed to post it due to the "backwoods" simplicity of it, but I guess if I can help someone out with an idea, I'm all for it, especially if you're like me... champagne taste with a kool-aid wallet!
again... pics to follow soon...
peace out...
Bryan
 

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P.S.
thank you for the kind words, hotbarrel...
I like to think I come up with a good one once in a while, because, in the words of Forrest Gump himself....
"I'm not a smart man, Ginny"
BUT....
I am smart enough to know that I saw one hell of a TIG machine, and I know where it is, Mr. RAIL WELDER!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I cant wate to try it out. I think I have some rails to do too now. this is going to go with the romanian kit I just got.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
guys
we talked about makeing a full size bar and may still do that. basicaly it would fill the inside of the reciever exactly. the advantage will be , the top rails could be done without moveing the block so no need to measure hight. faster and easy. the only other thing that would have to be done is the notch for the dimpels would have to go all the way down the side to allow the bar to slide out the back of the reciever. the notch would start about 3/16" off the bottom so you can still get the nice sharp corner.
the best thing I think about this bending method is the ability to put a plate on the side of the reciever and press it in a sandwitch , this is what realy gave a sharp corner. man it was so simpal anyone could do it. even if you do not have a mill you could pay a shop to just mill the block to the inside dimentions of a reciever. then you can drill and tap the holes and grind out the notches. wam bam you got it. the press is not required but it is like the final touch. .
I was realy amaized how easy it bent and how smooth it went just gently tapping along the side with a block of wood. the end of the block supported the entire side. [hight not leingth] each pass down the side you we would lift the angel of the block a bit more, tapping it further and further down. I have a friend that ownes a maching shop so I mam going to ask him how much to mill out a full blank block then I can easy finish it. I am thinking it would be about $40 topps.
 

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7.62x39 said:
All together now guys.

WE WANT PICS, WE WANT PICS, WE WANT PICS.
:wave:

:useless:
Yeah what he said!!!!

Hey SKS since I'm quoting folks here is something I found that says what I think about your idea. Keep up the good work buddy!!!

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius?and a lot of courage?to move in the opposite direction". E. F. Schumacker
Also I can relate to the wife situation!!!!!!!!
 

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If you start selling them I'll take one!
Cheap with a bit of labor and sweat involved is me :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well guys I bought a lathe today ,,, so the mill is out at least a few weeks. if I get a mill I am willing to make them for the guys on gunco. SkS hunter may be able to get some out theit for you guys too. I may be able to call in a favor to get a few blanks made by a friend , then I can do all the rest of the work here, maby this could get a few done sooner. anyone else have intrest in a tool set up?? maby we can make this happen.
 

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When you get the lathe up PM me. I would like a cap built for the plunger on my harbor freight shop press. I have a xebec jig and the little attachment he supplies to push out the barrel pins is not that easy to use. I was thinking a cap over the end of the pusher would be easier to use and more stable than that little thing that xebec sends. The cap would need a hole in the center to insert the pusher rod to remove the barrel pins.

Is that something you would be interested in doing to try out the new lathe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
will do !!!!
OH BOY now I have a real rpoject to try my new toy out on.

FAl if you pm me measurments and any other info I would be happy to help you out. keep in mind I do want to go over the lathe some before I use it . but I am not talking about a month here maby a week or so depending on parts and condition.
 

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Super, I will send you some measurements tonight. Do you have xebec'k jig. If you do it will be much easier to explain the issue to you. I'm not in a rush
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
sorry but um pow, I caint ford no fancy tools. I guts tu make my own..

Eyuppu it be a joke again so it be ok to laugh .. hahahah

I will do my best for you if you send me any kind of specs. maby make a drawing in paint or something and attach it to an email.
 

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Pin pressing aid

fal_shooter said:
When you get the lathe up PM me. I would like a cap built for the plunger on my harbor freight shop press. I have a xebec jig and the little attachment he supplies to push out the barrel pins is not that easy to use. I was thinking a cap over the end of the pusher would be easier to use and more stable than that little thing that xebec sends. The cap would need a hole in the center to insert the pusher rod to remove the barrel pins.

Is that something you would be interested in doing to try out the new lathe?
Hey fal shooter,

I already did that! It works great! here is a link:

http://www.gunco.net/forums/showthread.php?t=265

(I hope this link thing works! This is the first time that I have ever pasted a link!)

Yours,
Thumb Clip Pull Pin
 
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