I don't know how many punches I have destoryed doing this and the prices addes up. Also when the punch slips it dings the components. I just want to know what everyone else does to make this easy? I just gave up and drilled out some really stuborn yugo pins the other day but there has to be a better way.
Have some one else do it and then it's on them when they screw it up...:redchug: just kidding..
A Nail set works very well, it is tapered and will not break easy, another tip is use a pair of vice grips to hold the nail set make sure you barrel is on a hard not moving surface supported (solid concrete steel plate .anvil etc. so the energy is not transfered into the back stop..ie bouncing reducing your energy applied to the pin.. And USE A BFH to wail away on it.... soak it in a penetrating oil and heating up with a torch (not too hot) can also help.. B2B
The main things I've noticed are 1- have the area you need to remove the pin from on a solid surface and 2- on the first blow, give it a good smack, this usually breaks them loose and keeps them from turning into rivets.
I use a modified pin-punch set in a 1/2" round hardened steel disk. i then use my shopvise, line the punch up with the pin, tighten the vise and then smack the jaws with a hammer. usually pops them free and then a slight tapping with a hammer pushes them right out.
Getting them moving is the hard part. once they pop free, usually they press right out.
EDIT: I do use a hardwood backing plate to hold the barrel in place and to allow a place for the pin to move to.
I've cut a short section (about 1/2" in length) of round oil-hardened steel stock (that's smaller in diameter than the barrel pin) to use as a starter pin to push out the barrel retainer pin. I too have tried regular punches and nail sets and have had poor to mediocre success with them and have also launched some of them across the shop (and one time stuck into the wall). The key to repeatable success is to use one that is only as long as needed for the job and no longer otherwise it will tend to buckle. The short stubby section works 100% and can really load it up in a shop press w/o threat of launching it. I also have some sections just long enough to push out the pin enough to clear the trunnion out the other side.
BTW - Remember the guy a few years back who nutted himself with a punch launched from his shop press. Gory details painted in red, black and blue. :scared: