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Discussion Starter #1
Well I did it , I did not think I would , heck I even discouraged others from dooing it, but I broke down and did it. I did not want to pull out the barrel on the 65 so I removed the rivets compleatly , even picking out the ring in between the trunion and the barrel. then I pressed the new rivets back in the holes. I used the rivets from 1pats group buy, and I countersunk the holes in the trunion to fit the swell necks. I found the G.B. rivets to be a bit longer so I think they will mushroom over inside just fine. My biggest worry was the rivet getting fatter and not going in all the way but they went in flush and tight. I did the two rear rivets with a bucking bar . I figured "what do I have to loose" rite . I will keep a close eye on them and if I have any question I will drill them out and all I will have lost is 4 rivets. then I can drill and tap for the screws . I will keep you all informed how it goes. I think it will be fine. :)
 

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A while back that was the method. We just got more complicated.

There's alot made that way with good results. The reported problem, as I recall, was that the mushroom occured at the end of the shaft leaving the possibility for 1/16" back out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Winn
I see what you are saying about the mushroom beeing away from the trunion. I hope that maby the longer rivets will take up some of the space. man I think it is good to go. I am going to bump the hell out of this gun and see how it holds up.
 

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Congrats on giving it a whirl. I've been considering this method lately for my second build. HB, have you heard about the new rivets/screws/nails that WINN is using on his build?
 

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hotbarrel said:
Winn
I see what you are saying about the mushroom beeing away from the trunion. I hope that maby the longer rivets will take up some of the space. man I think it is good to go. I am going to bump the hell out of this gun and see how it holds up.
I've got an order in for the threaded rivets. Since they're a little long, operationally the function will be the same but with a twist on the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If they are a bit longer maby you can press them in tight and the end will swell up preventing it from backing out. I realy think the extra length of 1pats rivets will help expand the end more. also countersinking the trunion to accept the incoming reciever dimpel from the swell neck MUST make a stronger bond. I notice when I crush the rivets in the press the ENTIRE rivet gets fatter not just the end mushrooming. so I believe the very end may be fatter however no way do I see the rivet backing out. I tell you honestly I did quiet a bit of forceing and prying the reciever against the barrel to test the rivets and I could not move the reciever to trunion joint without dammaging the reciever , it is tight!!! All I used was an arbor press and a hammer!! to push them in.
I am satisfied with my AMD63 that I screwed the front trunion HOWEVER NOW I wish I had done this method and just pressed in the longer rivets.
 

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hotbarrel said:
If they are a bit longer maby you can press them in tight and the end will swell up preventing it from backing out. I realy think the extra length of 1pats rivets will help expand the end more. also countersinking the trunion to accept the incoming reciever dimpel from the swell neck MUST make a stronger bond. I notice when I crush the rivets in the press the ENTIRE rivet gets fatter not just the end mushrooming. so I believe the very end may be fatter however no way do I see the rivet backing out. I tell you honestly I did quiet a bit of forceing and prying the reciever against the barrel to test the rivets and I could not move the reciever to trunion joint without dammaging the reciever , it is tight!!! All I used was an arbor press and a hammer!! to push them in.
I am satisfied with my AMD63 that I screwed the front trunion HOWEVER NOW I wish I had done this method and just pressed in the longer rivets.
So you will continue using 1-pat's group buy rivets and the barrel as a buck from now on?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If this holds up as well is it seems what I plan to do is to ust the bucking bar if the barrel is allready out, and use the barrel to press against if the barrel is allready installed and head space is good. By the way the head space on the 65 is one of the best I have gotten without any fine tuneing.
AGAIn I think I would keep with the longer 1pat rivets if I buck against the barrel again. :thumbup1:
short rivets would be a :nono2:
 
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