Joined
·
5,980 Posts
Well, for those who would be at all interested in how to screw around with what's already a pretty little good pistol and double the money that you've got in it; here is a little foolishness along those lines.
Buy a 9 mm barrel and Hogue hand grips.
The trigger is awful -- partially because the spring-loaded firing block has to be compressed during the trigger pull. I had measured that force as six lbs. all by itself and that's without including losses to friction and linkage.
The first order of business is the disclaimer which goes like this: this modification removes a safety. What happens when the firing pin block is removed is that any hammer drop will now fire the gun. As well it's possible to get the gun to fire if it's dropped on its muzzle. It may be possible to get the gun to double by the unrestrained inertia of the firing pin.
However none of this is any different from the earlier 1911's. A firing pin Spring will make this a bit safer. Disabling the hammer drop is recommended.:wallbash:
A tit on the upper portion of the sear compresses the firing pin block. The tit is ground out so that when the trigger is fully to the rear, the upper portion of the sear is flush with the frame. The top of the original firing pin has a notch with a small ledge and 45 degree slope to the rear. File away the sloped portion.
Keep in mind as you're working with the slide that it is upside down.
This cuts the trigger pull from about 11 1/2 pounds to about 6 lbs..
We will explore the possibility later of trying to get this pistol to shoot the cheap four cent a round plastic bullet by removing the roller lock mechanism and creating a straight blow back with a reduced recoil spring. Which just goes to show the insanity of spending $100 and 1/2 day's work to be able to shoot up $40 worth of Ammo.
Buy a 9 mm barrel and Hogue hand grips.
The trigger is awful -- partially because the spring-loaded firing block has to be compressed during the trigger pull. I had measured that force as six lbs. all by itself and that's without including losses to friction and linkage.
The first order of business is the disclaimer which goes like this: this modification removes a safety. What happens when the firing pin block is removed is that any hammer drop will now fire the gun. As well it's possible to get the gun to fire if it's dropped on its muzzle. It may be possible to get the gun to double by the unrestrained inertia of the firing pin.
However none of this is any different from the earlier 1911's. A firing pin Spring will make this a bit safer. Disabling the hammer drop is recommended.:wallbash:
A tit on the upper portion of the sear compresses the firing pin block. The tit is ground out so that when the trigger is fully to the rear, the upper portion of the sear is flush with the frame. The top of the original firing pin has a notch with a small ledge and 45 degree slope to the rear. File away the sloped portion.
Keep in mind as you're working with the slide that it is upside down.
This cuts the trigger pull from about 11 1/2 pounds to about 6 lbs..
We will explore the possibility later of trying to get this pistol to shoot the cheap four cent a round plastic bullet by removing the roller lock mechanism and creating a straight blow back with a reduced recoil spring. Which just goes to show the insanity of spending $100 and 1/2 day's work to be able to shoot up $40 worth of Ammo.
