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aka: SDK1968
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
we've been talking about this behind the scenes here at GUNCO while ive been working on it as time permitted..

still dont have the final finish coat on it, but it is done & functional so its tie to bring it out for those here who are thinking about doing it in either set up or both.


DISCLAIMER:

This is NOT a CZ26 build that complies with my good friend Greg Clarks BATF approval. Greg builds & sells his C26's & it would be wrong for me to copy & give away his set up. This set up meets all requirements for denials & so on... but is mine.

now that we have that out of the way, lets dig into this:

Parts used:

CZ26 kit (Apex)
TEC Tactical tube
TEC Tactical FP kit
TEC Tactical barrels
GunBuilds Striker (Greg Clark)

YEP thats really all there is to it.
 

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aka: SDK1968
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
gonna approach this a little different & skip most of the generic stuff that everyone knows to do...

everyone looking at this can see how to demill the kit, so i'll skip that & if anyone has a specific problem? ask & we'll focus on that.

look at your tube & set up... have a picture in your head of how you want to do this before you start.

if your using a TEC Tac tube.. follow the template & stay inside the lines! you can always go back & trim a little more out.. but it sucks to try & put it back in. double check your distances.. spot weld when you attack your mag well, front & rear stubs & so on.

for me: once i make those main body cut outs & know for sure my location i base my overall length & front trunny spot on that.

ad my front FA denial so no factory bolt can go in there, weld into place.

trim tube to that... insert & spot weld trunny. double check & get your distances right... set rear!

now about setting the rear of this. we use the overall length & then i took 1/16" off of that so that the rear cap had pressure against it when in place.


THEN double check with actual barrel. at this point if you did your sear removal like you should have on the bolt... you can start using your bolt to get everything right.

i used the whole assembly to check all my distances, line ups & so on.. when ihad that just right.

went back and did my usual spot weld on 4 locations of the tube then fill/cap weld over. its my usual welding job that needs buffed down but didnt leave bubbles inside the tube.

you want a good weld here, but you also want to remember that this is just a sleeve! its not holding gas or liquids & over penetrating just causes a mess you have to clean up.

bolt strkr fit tube.JPG denial & handgrd fit.jpg
 

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aka: SDK1968
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7,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
after that you get to the critical part of setting that magwell/grip. ( i do this EXACTLY like the sten builds ive posted)

2 different theory's here. 1 is that you use a different angle for 9mm than you do TOK ... the other is that you dont have to.

im in the "you dont have to" group & didnt. its just a personal thing ive done in many builds. if it runs on TOK & you have good magazines with strong springs to hold the rounds where they belong? (so they dont slide around in there) then you dont need anything else.

the good thing about this particular swappable build is the bolt/striker spring set up needs NOTHING to do both calibers. literally all you do is spin the barrel retaining nut off & swap them out.

its actually came up that this is too easy of a swap & that someone might put the wrong ammo in the gun when they forget which barrel is there.

that could happen, but you'll see in the video & pix later that the 9mm barrel is LONGER than the TOK barrel thats really how i tell them apart in a hurry. maybe i'll electro pencil them later.


now we move on to the most frustrating part of this build. that bolt striker conversion. remember, this build is different from Greg's!!

This is NOT how he does it. for "my" version Tony & i both have ruined many bits on this bolt even after annealing.. sometimes you get one thats hard all the way thru.

also didnt like the results of drilling when it was done, very hard to keep a 1/16" bit on center thru about 2" of hardened drilling... but i had one of his FP kits laying there & said what the heck. so took a nice carbide end mill & we milled a 1/4" slot thru the center of the bolt for the sleeve.

THIS IS CRITICAL!!! you have to have this on the money or your bolt is toast. when you get it right? it perfectly gives you the dead center FP you need. insert sleeve. weld in place from back.. check FP fit. clean out and adjust as needed.

yes it takes a little work here & then you do your striker conversion from the piece Greg provides. when you look at the pix you can see.

i center drilled the striker, set teh depth of the FP to the protrusion i wanted on the boltface, marked it.. welded it to the striker. then cut off the extra & now you have to do all the adjusting to get it to slide in & out.

this is where lots of filing and fitting works to get the striker a nice fit in the bolt & get the spring/ejector/spring/guide rod all sliding & not binding together. it takes some patience & to keep playing with it in light touches.

then you move to hand cycling. lots of hand cycling. literally hundreds of times till you are satisfied that you think it will work. FP installed.JPG complt set up.JPG
 

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aka: SDK1968
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7,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
now once you got it hand cycling then your ready to start using dummy rounds in your mags.

since i figured the 9mm would be harder to get right i did all my dummy work with 9mm in the mags. once its feeding & functioning by hand then your ready to do a snap cap or a live primer test.

check your primers... on this build the TEC Tac sleeve actually sets your protrusion for you, but its still good to check it. my only real concern was that if it shot 9mm just fine it might not light the TOK surplus. much to my surprise it did just fine on both & the primers look real good.

back to the fit & cycle. i did have some adjustments to do on clearance. getting the bolt polished enough to slide easy... clear the denials...

& then the thing that aggravates most people with CZ26's is the interaction of the bolt to the barrel.

the barrels mount at the front & free float everywhere else... meaning they are easy to be off center & drag or bind.
bolt, strkr, front set.jpg IMAG0286_1.jpg
most people use the tighten it down and crank it approach. this doesnt really need to be that way. soon as i backed off of the over torquing of the barrel nut and just spun it down and let the barrel lock do the work? it was fine.
 

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aka: SDK1968
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7,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
now all your basic work is done & its nothing left but test fire, fit & finish.

so here is where i back up & throw in some of my crappy pix & vids.


ready for finish coating & pretty up
ready to fire.JPG


9mm & TOK's
[video=youtube;A9-eYN1ZOY0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9-eYN1ZOY0[/video]
 

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aka: SDK1968
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7,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
1 video per post so here is the extra post....

[video=youtube;b6ic2ch7pTo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6ic2ch7pTo[/video]


had to put an extra post in to get this other video to show up.. but this is also a god place if anyone needs another crappy looking photo for me to throw it in.
 

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7,143 Posts
Looking good. Having a caliber conversion like that makes it nice. I'm assuming that both calibers use the same mags? Also what kind of finish are you thinking of using?
 

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aka: SDK1968
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7,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sniper,

still been rolling it around a little.. it will either be cerakoat or aluma hyde II

ive got the ALuma Hyde II in the correct color, but a nice hard cerakoat would sure be a great finish on it.

either way ive decided to leave the barrels in the white.


YEP same magazine (the TOK's) these looked brand new & didnt even have any scuffs on them. very strong springs in them which is why the 9mm sits still in the back of the magazine where it should.

side note: the vids dont show up right away when i come to this... do i need to host them differently?
 

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Thanks for posting!! I'm getting ready to start a few 26s pretty soon. I have a few kits and three strikers coming from Greg. Does Tony have the tubes and barrels? I still need them.
 

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aka: SDK1968
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7,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for looking!

Yes Tony has the tubes & barrels.... & i recommend that FP sleeve. that made things soooo much easier to line up and get drilled out. i wasted a lot of bits & time on trying to do that hole & we buzzed right thru it with the 1/4" carbide bit in less than 3 mins!!

Tony was up for Knob Creek & we were throwing ideas back & forth about what would make things easier. it just happened to fall into place with that sleeve.

there are so many uses for that sleeve & the time/work/effort it saves is unreal.

are you gonna do pistol builds? SBR? or full on rifle?

s
 

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Sniper,

still been rolling it around a little.. it will either be cerakoat or aluma hyde II

ive got the ALuma Hyde II in the correct color, but a nice hard cerakoat would sure be a great finish on it.

either way ive decided to leave the barrels in the white.


YEP same magazine (the TOK's) these looked brand new & didnt even have any scuffs on them. very strong springs in them which is why the 9mm sits still in the back of the magazine where it should.

side note: the vids dont show up right away when i come to this... do i need to host them differently?
The videos show up fine when I open this thread.

Either finish would be nice, now to wait and see which one you choose. :)
 

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Neat! I knew the brains here would figure out a good way to set these up. I'm curious about the bill of materials total cost. Here is what I found with a few searches today:

CZ26 kit (Apex) = $89.95
TEC Tactical tube = $135
TEC Tactical FP kit = $20
TEC Tactical barrels = $100
GunBuilds Striker (Greg Clark) = ??
-TOTAL- = ??

* Prices updated from Dutigaf's post below
 

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aka: SDK1968
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7,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
barrels were around $100 shipped in either caliber

FP kit is $20 shipped or $15 if you buy more than one....

Gregs striker was done in a GB from a member here named SKYPILOT.. he has the price on that.

for those wondering about the difficulty level? think of a STEN MKIII build.... this is about the same amount of work & skill level.

the really only difficult part is drilling that bolt. :hyper:
 

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Great job Sean. Thanks for documenting it here.
 

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aka: SDK1968
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
thanx bub..

last minute update:

NOTE: ORIGNIAL bolt weight was 23oz. The actual weight of the NEW complete bolt/striker/FP sleeve & FP on this build is 27.75oz!!! thats AFTER all the lightening work & every bit that i could trim off of it. but hey it works! (5/5/15)


edited for math corrections...
 

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aka: SDK1968
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
alright i got the finish coat on last week & its been curing while i was on vacay...

heres one of my crappy pix;

IMAG0469_1.jpg


& now lets talk about the first problem ive encountered so far.... because testing & test building is all about problem solving! :)


NOT a 9mm problem.

it ONLY happens with TOK surplus.

look closely at the magazines... you'll see that on the 2 they have a line & a ridge in them.. when using TOK surplus the striker comes back so far that the INSIDE of it hits the front lip of the magazine on cycle!!
IMAG0471.jpg
it hits it hard enough that it puts a crease in the magazine & then makes the magazine BEND!! yikes!! it makes it impossible to remove with out a LOT of effort from the top.

its real easy to see what happened & its even easy to fix... but this is one of those things about testing... its how you find out.

you can fix it with just a buffer to stop the rear travel, OR if you want the rear travel ? you can take some out of the inside of the striker.

i tried a buffer first & that worked... but some people are anti buffer & want the full range of motion. if your of that notion then you need to relieve the inside of the striker...

a side note is that if your having to do the change that Greg did & shortening the FRONT of the striker .. you probably dont want to shorten the inside too! so the buffer may be the way to go.

ive not had to do the mod that Greg is doing. my FP set up is different than his & its not been an issue for my build in either caliber... so in the interest of testing out both paths, ive done it both ways now.

problem cured either way & now i just have to see if i can save those other magazines.
 

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aka: SDK1968
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Greg Clark has interesting post detailing out the differences & similarities between his BATF approved design & my set up.


between my TOK/9mm swappable version & his approved dedicated caliber versions there is plenty of info for a homebuilder to tackle this..

i cant C&P Gregs material without his permission..... but he might come thru & post it here.
 

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Hey 555th I sent you a message about the striker giveaway. Tec tactical has tubes with a special price for those f us in the group buy.
 
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