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Hey guy's,
I would like to take a shot at putting my $.02 in here since I have learned allot from others here.

I went down to Advanced Auto and picked up a can of "Duplicolor 1200 Degree Ceramic" Black paint in a spray can. The can costs about $4.


The kit started as a poor Polish under-folder, from Ohio Rapid Fire. It had about 20% finish left and rust had taken over.
I purchased a $20 spot bead blaster from Harbor Freight, stole some sand from my little girls sand box and sifted it through a window screen to filter out all the small stones, grass, and toys :thumbup1: .
I sand blasted all of the metal parts including the dust cover down to bare metal. I used compressed air and blew off the parts then wiped it all down with a clean rag.

The directions on the can say to spray thin coats then bake @ 300 degree's for around one hour.

I did not follow the directions. What I did was heat the bare metal with a propane torch. I did not get the parts too hot, I just made light passes with the flame to try and make a nice hot, even surface temp.. With the bare metal heated up and the spray paint shaken up, I then applied the paint.
It would smoke as I was applying it. I made light passes with the paint not over coating it. I allowed it to cure for around 20 minutes.
After letting sit I turned on the back yard grill on the lowest heat setting. I put all of the painted parts on the grill and left them in there for 15 minutes.

The finish product came out better than I expected. No runs at all (due to heating up the metal good). The finish is tough enough not to scratch with a fingernail. It took about 20 passes with the selector lever dimple, to cut through the paint, and still the bare metal does not show though all the way.


I tried the directions on the can with an AMD65 kit and it turned out not too good. It looked like the paint turned to ash. It can be scratched easily with a fingernail and the oil used on the bolt and FCG is soaking into it and it has a wet sheet look. it will be redone.


I will try pic's when I get home.


:thankyou:
Samuel
 

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Strange how things work out. Yes, I would like to see pictures of both (good and bad).
 

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Id be afraid the grill would get to hot, since there is no temperature gauge. Did you use an upper rack on the grill? I would like to see pics of that weapon. If it worked that well I would be interested in trying that method. Very good info!
 

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I used my charcoal grill to heat Brownell's Teflon Moly to the required 300 degrees. I was able to use the thermometer that came with a Turkey fryer. The long probe reached all the way into the center of the grill. I used a little Al foil to shield the coated and dry to the touch parts from the grate.

I was able to control the heat by adjusting the gas controls and opening the grill hood when things got a bit too hot.

Temperature control was not too difficult and I avoided the acrid smoke and smell I would have suffered if I used the oven in the kitchen.....not to mention the cost of a divorce lawyer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mbadboyz said:
Id be afraid the grill would get to hot, since there is no temperature gauge. Did you use an upper rack on the grill? I would like to see pics of that weapon. If it worked that well I would be interested in trying that method. Very good info!
Yup, used the upper rack. I did open the cover about every 5 minutes to take a look.

I kinda feel like an old fat lady checking a turkey in the oven now that I said that :eek:


I gona try some porn. Be right back.


Samuel
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I tried posting better pics but I must be doing somthing wrong.



Samuel
 

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I use that stuff on mags. OK, but Acetone will strip it right off - even when cured. Don't get a good cleaning solvent near it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Trotsky said:
I use that stuff on mags. OK, but Acetone will strip it right off - even when cured. Don't get a good cleaning solvent near it.
Have you tried WD-40? I don't use solvent. I use #9 Hopps for lube and bore cleaning, and WD-40 for pre-clean and general blow off then wipe down.
 

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F-Troop said:
I used my charcoal grill to heat Brownell's Teflon Moly to the required 300 degrees. I was able to use the thermometer that came with a Turkey fryer. The long probe reached all the way into the center of the grill. I used a little Al foil to shield the coated and dry to the touch parts from the grate.

I was able to control the heat by adjusting the gas controls and opening the grill hood when things got a bit too hot.

Temperature control was not too difficult and I avoided the acrid smoke and smell I would have suffered if I used the oven in the kitchen.....not to mention the cost of a divorce lawyer.

My wife is beyond divorce, I think if I use the kitchen oven one more time my life wont be worth Joeken :wink:
 

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another pic of guns and laundry!!!lol...
they look good with the heat and apply method! I think I may try it out, thanks for the info tidbit!
 

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I have found that lower temp paint holds up better when getting hot than hi=temp paint. Just my findings.

High temp paint gets soft when you heat up the barrel bumping.
 

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I've used the Duplicolor 1602 on my SAR-2 with good results:



The only thing you have to be careful with is spray solvents like Gunscrubber - it will take the paint off. Other than that it's a great solution. I've also heard of people using Rustoleum black epoxy applicance paint with good resutls. It seems to be more resistant to solvents like Gunscrubber.

I've started using Norrell's Molyresin. Once you bake it on, nothing short of sandblasting will take it off.
 

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I bought a can of barbecue paint today. I will spray it tomorrow and bake it for an hour. Will let you all know.
 
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