First Attempt, Romak 3 questions.

HCPookie,

Thanks for the headspace tips. I had come up with about the same idea. I didn't remove the firing pin though. Is this a safety issue, or will it affect the measurement? I used a piece of .004 and a piece of .0075 shim stock. I couldn't close the bolt on either. It will close easily on a cartridge with no shim stock though. I read on one of the milsurp websites that the difference between go and nogo for the NATO 7.62x51 is .004. That is why I tried the sizes I did. The Romak headspaces on the rim, but I think this method will work for rimless cartridges too.

I have an additional step I'm considering. Since I reload, I've used cartridge length gauges to check my finished cartridges. Here is one for 7.62x39.

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/333085

On the end of these gauges is a step. The finished cartridge length, from the mid-shoulder to the base must fall inside the step. This, I'm sure, is directly related to SAAMI headspace. My idea is to try different thickness shims on a particular resized and unloaded case until I'm even with the top of the step. This is the maximum length a cartridge is allowed to be. It probably is the same as a no-go gauge. In my opinion, this is the critical length. If I add shim thickness beyond this and still close the bolt, I probably have an issue. If I knew the difference between no-go and field gauges, I could shim out to that value. If factory ammo gauges OK, and chambers easily, I'd think a go gauge would be unnecessary. I'm considering this instead of buying go no-go gauges because a cartridge gauge is only 16 bucks, and I need one to reload that caliber anyway. The only problem I see so far is interference from the extractor claw. Removing it would simplify things.

Range Report:

Flawless operation by receiver. Man does this rifle launch the brass. The 8x42 scope was nice! The combination of the spring loaded buttplate and the compensator make this 7.62x54R a pure pleasure to shoot! I was shooting the Wolf 148gr. Wearing only a T-shirt, no chicken pad, it punishes less than 7.62x39. (IMO)

I had two issues. I can solve both, but would appreciate input.

1. FCG is gritty and creepy. I've polished the FCG on my SAR-1 and figure to do the same here. Is there any thing I should know that is different?

2. The compensator kept coming loose. The retainer pin from the front sight block is too high above the barrel to engage the notches in the comp. The comp almost seems to be too small a diameter. I can loctite the comp, or try to modify the pin to work better. Any suggestions?

Once I settled in and started concentrating, I was putting groups of 3 or 4 within 2 MOA. I was waiting in between groups 5 to 10 minutes for cooling, but it was hard to wait. I feel sure that cleaning up the FCG will improve groups.
Thanks for all of the input!! This forum, kept frustration to zero. I can't wait to get going on the AMD65 and the plum 74 I got from DPH.

Rhino_66 said:

You're not using satin tung oil are you? Seriously, I had to return the second bottle of oil that I bought because I grabbed satin by mistake. Duh...

It could depend on how you're applying the oil. I did my stock set with a heavy coat of oil initially without wiping too much off. The second and third coats were really heavy and buffed with 0000 steel wool between coats. If you put the oil on too thin, you will not make any progress as the oil won't fill in even the tiny scratches from the steel wool and it will leave a satin finish. You need to wipe or brush on at least one heavy coat. When you do this, keep rotating the part to prevent the oil from running or sagging. You will need to keep continuously turning the part for about 15 or 20 minutes. I usually sit down and watch something on TV while I'm turning the part. Work over a drop cloth! If you're married, make sure she doesn't know about this...

You could also try more thin coats without scuffing with steel wool between them. Eventually the oil will fill in the scratches and give you a glossy finish.

If you put on a heavy coat and keep it from running or sagging, you can get a finish that is like glass. The Romak stock set in this picture turned out fairly well, but I have a milled AK set that looks like it's still wet.

Click to expand...

I need that buttstock Buddy.

But gosh darn it you went and buried it in heavy Poly now will have to take

the stipper to it.

Gosh darn it.

All kidding aside looks good I have a buttstock on the way removed all the orginial poly from upper and lower handguards and will give it a coat of red dye and some tung oil same for buttstock when it gets here.

I like it a little darker.

So will keep an eye on yours here is mine at begining.
http://community.webshots.com/album/206124831MlnSoC/3

bbowling said:

OK Rhino, you showed me yours, so now I'll show you mine. Thanks for the tip on the tung oil type. I still don't know what I started with, but as you can see, the Homer Formby's high gloss tung oil finish will definitely shine.

Click to expand...

That is a great job can't wait to show you mine:lame:

Okay but will be red.

Did you use the old rit dye thing?

thanks

Ps all nice jobs.
anybody think of having them parked?
might on mine just for the hell of it.