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Here is the first attempt I made with Stickermans jig.

The jig did perform well, but I buggered the top rails a bit by too aggresive whacking with a hammer. Next time I think I will try to hit them down to roughly 45 degrees and then pressing them down the remainder with a piece of bar stock. Anyone try this before?
 

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On your next one try using something in between the rails and the hammer. Maybe some wood or scrap metal. 1st....Just tap the rails with a hammer to get them started then use your scrap wood or metal in between. It will turn out a lot nicer.
 

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mbadboyz said:
On your next one try using something in between the rails and the hammer. Maybe some wood or scrap metal. 1st....Just tap the rails with a hammer to get them started then use your scrap wood or metal in between. It will turn out a lot nicer.
Have you bent any more flats?
 

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Wow, you really beat the crap out of them rails huh? I too have Stickerman's jig and I did just as you are asking about. I used a piece of long flat stock and got my bend started and then used the same piece of flat stock to press them down with. Mine came out about as flat and straight as you could want. Now if I could get over the trigger guard rivet hurdle I'd be on to the next stage of this build.
 

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Rule .308 said:
Wow, you really beat the crap out of them rails huh? I too have Stickerman's jig and I did just as you are asking about. I used a piece of long flat stock and got my bend started and then used the same piece of flat stock to press them down with. Mine came out about as flat and straight as you could want. Now if I could get over the trigger guard rivet hurdle I'd be on to the next stage of this build.
What problem are you having with the trigger guard?
 

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gtbehary said:
Have you bent any more flats?
Hey buddy! Yes. I am working on 3 of them right now. I mean. I have bent a total of 3 tomorrow will be my 4th for my underfolder kit I was telling you about. I just finished welding the rails on my first receiver. Getting ready to paint it tomorrow night with the Aluma-Hyde II! I have 2 more receivers to do the spot welding rails on. I dont like that step of the building. I just dont have it down to a T yet.
 

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mbadboyz said:
Hey buddy! Yes. I am working on 3 of them right now. I mean. I have bent a total of 3 tomorrow will be my 4th for my underfolder kit I was telling you about. I just finished welding the rails on my first receiver. Getting ready to paint it tomorrow night with the Aluma-Hyde II! I have 2 more receivers to do the spot welding rails on. I dont like that step of the building. I just dont have it down to a T yet.
I guess you've mastered the jig!
 

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Arrrrghhhhhhhhhhhh!! The damn trigger guard is absolutely killing me. I have 7.62's trigger guard rivet a jig and have tried every way that I can think of and I am not having satisfactory results. I wish I had what it takes to post a picture but I don't so I will do my level best to give you a blow by blow of the dirty details. Initially I set it up just like you ought to and when I pressed things together it squished the rivets but it also pused the domed rivet heads out and away from the trigger guard so that they did not sit flush, looks like crap. Next I tried clamping everything together, used a long bar clamp and a piece of flat stock across the upper rails. Clamped it all tightly together onto the press block, and then proceded. Same results. At first I tried it with the One-Pat group buy rivets and they were closer to the correct length but were too narrow. So I made up a bichen simple little jig that allowed me to cut 5 rivets to the correct length at one time in my mill. I have used the 5/32 rivets that 7.62 made the jig for, I mill them down until there is .100 sticking up through the bottom of the receiver. I brought home my air hammer from work and tried it, it worked better but still not good enough. On a whim I turned the jig over and pressed a set of rivets with out the divets that they index into. It did flatten out the top of the dome a little but otherwise it worked choice. So, that being the deal I chucked the jig up in my vice and used a ball end mill to drill another set of dimples on the other side. I purposely made the dimples a little on the shallow side. Now it is ringing my rivet heads, but when it is said and done with the rivets are in and everything sits flush. Then I went to the back rivet and it is doing the exact same thing. For something that was supposed to be dip $hit simple this has turned into a multi day/evening nightmare. So anyhow, not to high jack a guys thread, but if you have any other ideas or insight into it by all means enlighten me.
 

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I had a similar problem with one of 7.62's jigs. The divits for the rivet heads were just a touch deep for my rivets. I use rivets from Global, maybe they spec out different ? Anyway, easy fix. One pass with an endmill and then polish up the top on a belt sander. I also redecked the pad for the rear rivet. It fixed the problem and cleaned up the top surface nicely. I'm not getting any ringing of the heads and they sit flush with the back squashed nicely.

If you decided to resurface the top deck, try using a rivet as a gauge to see if you have removed enough metal. I removed enough so the rivet was flush with the endmill, then sanded out the cut marks.

Another mod for the jig I did was to narrow the bucking block to fit inside a global receiver. As it is, it is just a smigeon too wide to fit a global. I milled one dimension (length?) down to fit a global, and the other dimension (width?) fits a standard receiver width - 1.25".

s & p
 

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Hmmmm, surface the face of it a little, now there is a thought. That is the weird thing though, when I drop a rivet in the divet it appears to sit flush. The question is though is it hitting the sides or is it actually bottoming out? I flipped it over and drilled the bottom side as well, I think I shall open them up just a tad and see what that does for me. Thanks for the thoughts on decking that sucker a few thou, that is a good idea that I had not considered. Rule .308
 
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