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I'm new to this board but not to ak's, having owned them since the mid-90's. I currently am modifying two saigas to return them to their respectful ak stature. I had one parkerized, however, I have been wondering what to do. I see a lot of guns finished with duplicolor and aluma-hyde, however, do they stand up to abuse. Are you painting because it is cheaper or just as reliable? I have tried brownells baking lacquer on mags, sand blasting and degreasing and baking but the paint still comes off where contact with the mag well occurs. Currently 35 of 36 mags are parkerized but I still wonder what to do with my remaining saiga and two russian m44 mosin nagants.

Any suggestions?


Thanks in advance


Bravo2zero
 

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I use the alumina hyde 2 alot, because it is economical and it is really some tough stuff. I tried the Brownells moly resin in a spray can.Not very durable. Norrells is probably the best if ya want moly resin,at least what I hear.I believe they are the original ones to make the moly(not sure).Alumina hyde
is easy to finish with too,but it takes quick some time to cure about a week or 2..my .02 worth
 

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Blue the Nagant with cold blue. Heat it up with a heat gun or oven then apply the cold blue paste. Works like a charm for me.

On the AK's I can't comment since I have yet to re-finish, but you could use the method above also.
 

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all i have done is phosphitize and blue. Hay I would buy some duplicolor and do the best posable job, then put it to the abuse and see if it will take it??
what you got to loose??? try it and let us know..
 

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There really isn't any finish (that's available at our level) that will hold up to every kind of usage. Even phosphating will wear, especially in areas like where the bolt rides and various other moving parts. The main purpose of finishes is to look pretty (as in deep bluing) and to aid in the prevention of corrosion. With a good finish you will still have wear but it is mostly limited to the moving parts. Which are easy to clean and lubricate. Also the finish will absorb oils to aid in parts movement and again help prevent corrosion. Some manufacturers apply paint after phosphating for added protection so if the paint is scrached the phosphating underneath will continue to protect.
 

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GUNKOTE GUNMETAL BLUE.

Look at my polish build.
If applied properly it will last a lifetime.
 

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I use parkerizeing solution fron PALMENTTO ENTERPRISES. you mix in 4oz. into each gallon of distilled water. their phone number is 864-246-3836, it is a good place to deal with, they took the time to answer my questions and did not sell me a bunch of crap I did not need. another soultion company was less than friendly with me so even thow I called them first they got zero dollars from me. Palmetto will treat you rite.
as for price comparison to paint. well I bought a quart bottle and it shure cost more than a can of spray paint. HOWEVER this bottle will do a heck of a lot more than a bunch of spray cans. I feel it is cheaper in the end, if you are going to do more than one or two parts in the next few years. the solution will last consintrated for a long time. it is easy and fun heat up the mix and drop in the part, then watch the magic.
 

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sag run
I too like to heat up parts before applying the blue. I glass beaded a balaster then heated and blued, it was amaizing how nice it came out. the fine blast texture made a prizmatic finish with the blue it giltters like millions of tiny cristals wow
 

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hotbarrel said:
I use parkerizeing solution fron PALMENTTO ENTERPRISES. you mix in 4oz. into each gallon of distilled water. their phone number is 864-246-3836, it is a good place to deal with, they took the time to answer my questions and did not sell me a bunch of crap I did not need. another soultion company was less than friendly with me so even thow I called them first they got zero dollars from me. Palmetto will treat you rite.
as for price comparison to paint. well I bought a quart bottle and it shure cost more than a can of spray paint. HOWEVER this bottle will do a heck of a lot more than a bunch of spray cans. I feel it is cheaper in the end, if you are going to do more than one or two parts in the next few years. the solution will last consintrated for a long time. it is easy and fun heat up the mix and drop in the part, then watch the magic.
What exactly is the purpose of phosphating the metal. Is this just a preparatory state before blueing the metal? If this is the case, I would assume that phosphating and blueing requires metal that is still in pretty good shape with no scratches. For my build, I need something that will cover up and hide some of the deep marring and scratches. I would love to learn about this "phosphating and blueing" though. I like the deep blueing of metal.
 

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I use commercial flat black paint from home depot, its cheap and renewable. When the rifle's finish wears, i reapply, the paint doesnt come offf when cleaning if you use chemicals to clean, like M pro-7.
 
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