Uzi flat bending *should* be as easy as bending an AK. Getting the measurements for the trunion should be the starting point. Of course making relief cuts for the support ribs, etc. will be a consideration.
That is a beautiful thing.
It's just a matter of structuring some metal sections
to match contours, and allowing some relief cut-out areas
for the corregations. I can see it folding up much like an AK
flat bending jig.
You could almost pour a liquid gel into a finished Uzi receiver and extract it.
That would be the stamping die model.
Got a link for Mckay?
got my parts kit from sarco so the trunnion is intact. i was thinking of cutting the trunnion area of the flat off and bending it as a repair section but dont wanna do anything drastic just yet. I dont have any of the weld components yet, this is kind of a scrape up money and buy the parts one at a time build lol
$49 for the flat? Thats a great deal. There are many Uzi parts kits out there with the trunions destroyed but not the kits from Sarco. I think most of their kits are old stock from the 80's I heard...you know when the ATF was more relaxed.
Well this will take a lot of welding work. Uzi's aren't complicated, they are bullet hoses after all.
The semi block that goes on the back will MOST LIKELY be the first thing to add once it is bent. I doubt you need to add it before bending, but don't quote me on that as I really don't know. Bolt mods (milling the slot for the semi block and the sear modification) will of course be next.
All the weld components are pretty much a fit-it and weld-it situation. There are u-weld-it kits on Gunbroker from time to time so all you should need to do is provide the welder.
Uzis are fun... I must admit that I like mine even though they are heavy. I recommend you consider getting one of the .40 SW barrels from [email protected]. He is sometimes on here, and of course on Uzi Talk. Can't remember the pricing, but it is well worth it. The great thing about the .40 is that it is practically a drop-in conversion. Do a little dremel work, if necessary, on the bolt to allow a .40 round to seat properly. Done right (aka done slowly) you will still be able to use 9mm with no problems! Swap the barrel, and presto the 25 round magazine doubles as a 17-18 round .40 magazine.
Check robertrtg.com for accessories like a $5 sling among other things.
Another thought - you could build it as a pistol and forego the need for a long barrel. You will need to ensure you don't weld the buttstock on and then you are set. If you use an "Aussie sling" stance where you push forward on the gun to make the sling go taught, thereby bracing you shooting, then you can be surprisingly accurate with it. However, were it me, I would go with the 16" carbine barrel. The extra muzzle velocity is worth the long barrel! It is so freaking short even with the long barrel that it makes for a very compact CQB weapon.
Should be fine installing the blocker after bending, since he'll still need to cut several openings in the bottom before being able to install the other parts. As it is there's no way for the sear to enter the receiver (the two smaller holes).
ive been interested in the .40 s&w but d&d sales carbine barrels are cheap so i think im gonna go with that. so my jig would have to have a sort of round mandrel to extend into the trunnion area to ensure proper forming. if i come up with a good jig i guess i will have blazed the trail for uzi flat bending.
i think the blocking bar doesnt have to be welded in until before you weld on the back plate thing bc i remember seeing receiver shells for sale that didnt have the bar installed somewhere. i think it was group industries.
I had an idea. Some of the kits like the one I got from numrich have the front section w/ trunion torch cut behind the trunion. The flat from mckay looks like a booger to bend in this area. Why not trim the receiver stub off a bit behind the trunion, and cut the front off the flat just behind the trunion area. The flat should be alot easier to fold after cutting the front off. Get your measurements off the flat before cutting. Weld the two together. Am I making sense? Should save a few bucks. Hell, dutigaf has probably already done one just like that!
I just ordered my nodak spud receiver shell. akfiend, how long did it take to ship yours? Also, I re-read the thread and saw where you had said almost exactly what I posted about the cut and weld idea. How did I miss that? I can be a dummy sometimes!
sorry mtn dew i havent checked this thread in a while. i dont remember it being to terribly long shipping time. now that i have a mill i could make a bending jig with releif cuts that would actually work.