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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
OH come on, stop bashing my crude motor mounts :D they're only there until I can figure out how to use these damn programs to make better ones.

Man for the first time I can say YouTube sucks, I checked out a few videos that claim they are for Mach3 setup, hell they're either setup for people that already know how to use these programs and just need a refresher or they don't explain shit.
 

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Not cracking on them. They work. That is what is important.
Yeah you tube sucks. I could help today, i have a few hours free. Tomorrow to tuesday will be a bitch for me though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Thanks for the offer. But I doubt I'll get to mess with this until the weekend again, works been kind of busy the last few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
I was going to ask a question about Mach and see you were curious about my progress.
That's cool about the Logan, do a thread of it when you can.


With work being the way it has been, I only felt like messing with it for a little this past weekend.
I felt uncomfortable with no home switches because I was having trouble with the program side of it, so I installed a home switch on each axis, so I feel better now that I can zero everything in the program.
And figured out how to set zero to the work piece, I think, just moved the table around to certain points like I had a piece of material on the table and a cutting tool in the spindle. But didn't try it with anything real yet.

Ran the Road Runner code a couple times just to see what it would do (I think people call it "air cutting"), had my hand hovering over the E-stop the whole time :D , it seems to work. I want to try putting a sharpie in the spindle next and see if it can draw it.


Now the question, but I have to explain it out first

I seen a video where the guy was showing setting up the Road Runner (RR) g-code or any g-code, and how the program will want to set everything to the lower left of the table (actual zero), he showed how to reset zero to the place on the table you want the work piece.
Now he had his program setup to show a 100mm x 100mm table and his RR g-code look small, just guessing it might have been about 20mm square, but when I bring up the RR g-code to my table specs it fills as much area it can, like the whole table.

Is there a way to make the RR smaller through Mach? Because if there is I can't figure it out
 

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Coils. What is road runner????

To set zero ,I type it into the tab window or move the table to it andbhit the zero bittons on the main screen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Coils. What is road runner????
LOL I thought everyone that used Mach knew about the Road Runner, it's a g-code that is included with Mach to test with, I think there's three or four different test patterns and the RR is one of them.
If you want to see it, here's a short video of a guy cutting it with a router
[video=youtube;NH8UYkPjicY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH8UYkPjicY]Mechmate cutting roadrunner - YouTube[/video]
Here's another that shows it better, about 12 or 13 seconds is a good veiw
[video=youtube;zvyww4CX6j0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvyww4CX6j0]Mach3 "Roadrunner" file home made CNC router, second cut! - YouTube[/video]


Like I said I think I got the zeroing thing figured out, I was just trying to see if there's a way to change the size of those generic g-codes to take up less space on the table.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
I seen your question earlier but I couldn't answer it until I looked at the other pc.
On mine it's in the folder Mach3/gcodes on the C drive (or which ever one you installed it on)
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Well I played around with it some more yesterday, I wanted to get that RR file to try and send it to you but I misplaced my flash drive and that pc isn't on my network, I'll still get it later for you.

The only way I could get the RR thing to stay on the table was to reduce the X & Y scale that's next to the DRO, I changed it from 1.0 to .750

I did a couple cheesy videos and loaded them to YouTube
This one is just doing an air cut
[video=youtube;FoxVKmGb1vg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoxVKmGb1vg]P1000392 - YouTube[/video]
This one is the second cut of the RR at the .750 scale, you don't see much of the cut because of the sawdust, and you'll notice I forgot to turn on the mill at first :)
[video=youtube;Ie3F82lpjTQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ie3F82lpjTQ]P1000393 - YouTube[/video]
And this one I just reset the gcode and ran it through again just to see how close it would stay to the first cut, it looks like the X might have a little backlash
[video=youtube;zdTy5ShUwEE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdTy5ShUwEE]P1000396 - YouTube[/video]
 

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Looks like the belt has play in it for the y axis. Looks like youre right about the x axis. If you have a dial indicator we can measure that and input it into machIII so it will compensate. Its been years since I have seen a clean mill. Looks kinda naked. I see you either got smart or got the led light idea from someone....

Congrates. Do you like ars? Depending on your tooling/fixture ability there are some interesting projects you can do..
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
I'll double check the Y belt, can't believe you can tell from that video. But then I don't have any tensioners on them either.
I'll also have to mess with the X more to see how much backlash there is or if I can get rid of it mechanically.
I might go direct drive on the table, I was worried about over working the motors before, but they don't seem like they are straining at all with this setup.

Yeah I remember you guys talking about the LED lights, that's a great addition, you can see mine were coming off (it's off now) but it held on there for almost a year with just some crazy glue. When I make the new motor mounts I also want to make a new collar for the Z and have the ball screw attached to that and put in a groove for the light strip to set in.

LOL clean mill. The only reason it's clean is because it hasn't been used since I took it apart :D

Yeah I like the AR platform, actually I like most firearms
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
So what's a good, easy to use and cheap CAM program?

I got a CAD program I'm trying to learn, it seems like it's more then I'll ever need.

And I have to buy Mach3 yet, still using the demo version
 

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Ill have to get a pic of my led z collar. Turbo is used by a lot of hobbiests but quite honestly machIII is the heat...
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Maybe I'm a little confused about CAM programs, but I thought they were used to convert the CAD (or what ever) item into gcode, and mach3 just reads that code to tell the motors what to do?
 

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Cad draws it and puts it out in a variety of differnt formats. Conversion programs (if not in g code) convert it. Cam runs the code on the machine.
 

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Yeah I know it's not an issue, I figured one of those pin ports in the program can be switched or I'll just move the motor to the other side of the mount, but I like where it's at because it's out of the way. Going to go search for info on this

Here's some pics of the temporary mounts, first the Z

I originally had my Z set up similar to yours but had to change it do to the amount of backlash/slop in the rack and pinion gears. Have you noticed any hop in the cutter?

Original setup:


New setup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
OK VZ, the CAM program is for the machine, so Mach is a CAM program, I got it now.





Holescreek I've only done a few cuts into that board in the videos so far, don't know how it will act with metal yet.
I did place a dial indicator on the Z and kept running it between .050" & .090" in both directions and there didn't seem to be any backlash, but that still doesn't tell me how it will hold up cutting something hard.

I want to make a setup with a ball screw, but I want to try and make a new collar for it once I figure out the programs better, thinking of putting the LED light strip in a groove and having the mounting area for the ballscrew and one of those flexible hose things for a mist system.
I'll have to look at mine closer but I don't know if I want to try mounting the screw right to the original collar like you did, mine looks different then yours.

Also I didn't want to do too many mods right away in case the CNC thing didn't work out, then I can put it back to a manual setup if I need to. But so far it looks like I'll continue with this project.



Can you give more details about your Z setup, mainly the ball nut & bearing? I just can't picture how the bearing(s) is setup in that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
Update

I'm giving up on this for now, can't get it running right, motors on the table don't turn sometimes and it's not consistent on the distances of the moves. Wasted enough time for now, so putting it back to a manual machine, hopefully I'll get time to put something together with these parts to mess with it more later, like a small gantry table for a router or plasma setup.
 
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