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I decided to just hammer my barrel back into the trunion on my AMD 63 kit as a test.
First I measured the barrel and trunion to see what the difference was in size. Mine was less then .02, so a little polishing of the barrel and trunion with 320 then 400 grit paper. After the 400 everything looked real shiny and it was decided that was good enough instead of going to 600 then 2500.
I applied some anti-seaze paste to both parts then proceeded to hammer. The barrel went 2/3 of the way very easily using a rubber mallet with the trunion on a dense peice of Teak wood supported by the garage floor. That is where the taper starts to come into play to make it tougher.
The next step was a Brass hammer to send it home. At first the brass hammer did not distort or mar the barrel end, but the in the end it did, so take warning from my stupidty. Find a way to shield the threads on the end of the barrel with something, what that is I don't know yet.
I hammered the barrel in the rest of the way untill it was close to my measurement I took before removing the barrel. Then I made small adjustments and went too far which then needed a little adjusting the other way in the vise. I got it back in to my measurement which was too tight. Hmm? Okay, so I measeured my other AK's and AMD65 kit. It ended up working at the exact same measurement as the 65.
Btw: When you first start the barrel it's pretty easy to use a wrench to get the trunion and barrel timed with each other so the rear sight base will slip in with the trunion. You have to do this work in a vise! A big one is preferred with plenty of room.
I used a level to get the trunion and rear sight base on the same plane.
The vise was used to press the barrel pin back in after it was done in reverse order of what is posted in the library. Once I had the barrel in and headspace was working well I also noticed that the barrel pin hole was lined up perfect.
So, there ya' go. A hammer mechanic strikes again.
First I measured the barrel and trunion to see what the difference was in size. Mine was less then .02, so a little polishing of the barrel and trunion with 320 then 400 grit paper. After the 400 everything looked real shiny and it was decided that was good enough instead of going to 600 then 2500.
I applied some anti-seaze paste to both parts then proceeded to hammer. The barrel went 2/3 of the way very easily using a rubber mallet with the trunion on a dense peice of Teak wood supported by the garage floor. That is where the taper starts to come into play to make it tougher.
The next step was a Brass hammer to send it home. At first the brass hammer did not distort or mar the barrel end, but the in the end it did, so take warning from my stupidty. Find a way to shield the threads on the end of the barrel with something, what that is I don't know yet.
I hammered the barrel in the rest of the way untill it was close to my measurement I took before removing the barrel. Then I made small adjustments and went too far which then needed a little adjusting the other way in the vise. I got it back in to my measurement which was too tight. Hmm? Okay, so I measeured my other AK's and AMD65 kit. It ended up working at the exact same measurement as the 65.
Btw: When you first start the barrel it's pretty easy to use a wrench to get the trunion and barrel timed with each other so the rear sight base will slip in with the trunion. You have to do this work in a vise! A big one is preferred with plenty of room.
I used a level to get the trunion and rear sight base on the same plane.
The vise was used to press the barrel pin back in after it was done in reverse order of what is posted in the library. Once I had the barrel in and headspace was working well I also noticed that the barrel pin hole was lined up perfect.
So, there ya' go. A hammer mechanic strikes again.