[JoeLad]

I used Chestnut Ridge stain on my Ironwood set for my MAK-90.
It really looks like crap. Is there any way for me to remove the stain from the wood? There's no finish on it yet, just stain.

JoeLad

 

[hotbarrel]

my best advise would be to call a place like sherwin willams or another GOOD paint store. I would not delay .... maby rubbing thinner but I realy would ask the experts. HAY maby their is an 800 number on the can and they could help.

 

[JoeLad]

Thanks for the tips fellas. I used an antique furniture refinisher on them. It did take out some of the stain, but not all of it.

I'll look for the stock bleach at Brownell's.

JoeLad

 

[hcpookie]

You can get the "industrial bleach" which is a runny gel for use on wood decks at Lowe's/Home Depot. I used this to clean my deck before I put on water seal.

Its just normal clorox, with a thickener to keep it from running as quickly.

I suspect whatever Brownell's will sell will be very similar - bleach is bleach.

 

[Sangrun Hunter]

I've had luck in the past soaking wood in bleach, but it will weaken the wood and you have to be careful how long and how much.

 

[Rhino_66]

You can buy bleach from chemical supply companies, but be careful. Typical reagent grade bleach is 12% to 15% hypochlorite. Clorox and other home use brands are around 2% to 3% hypochlorite. The reagent grade will really damage almost any material that it comes in contact with. It will destroy nylon and other plastics even with short exposure. The reagent grade stuff will remove the stain, but will damage the stock beyond repair in a very short time. Stick with the concentrations like the home-use brands. You can thicken bleach by adding a little corn starch to make a paste. Think of it as bleach gravy.

You could also try the dishwasher trick afterwards to get all the bleach out.

 

[Sangrun Hunter]

You can buy bleach from chemical supply companies, but be careful. Typical reagent grade bleach is 12% to 15% hypochlorite. Clorox and other home use brands are around 2% to 3% hypochlorite. The reagent grade will really damage almost any material that it comes in contact with. It will destroy nylon and other plastics even with short exposure. The reagent grade stuff will remove the stain, but will damage the stock beyond repair in a very short time. Stick with the concentrations like the home-use brands. You can thicken bleach by adding a little corn starch to make a paste. Think of it as bleach gravy.

You could also try the dishwasher trick afterwards to get all the bleach out.

\


Umm..... Bleach Gravy..... Must have Bleach gravy... Slobber, drool....

 

[AK-74Freak]

Don't forget to add a little ammonia to the mix :blowup:





JUST KIDDING!!!!!!! :biggrin:

 

[JoeLad]

I found a website that advises using bleach followd by water. Use more bleach if the first time is unsatisfactory. The longer the bleach is on, the lighter the wood will become. Finally, use white vinegar to neutrlize the bleach, follwed by more water.

I bleached it today with varying results. I have yet to put the vinegar on it.
I'm ready to buy another set form Ironwood at this point. I think I read somewhere they have no walnut left, and don't plan on mkaing anymore. Is this true?

JoeLad

 

[DrugRunR]

Don't buy another set.
Yours can be fixed.

You need to PM Z_recto.

Ask him what he uses.

He can repair and refinish any stock set.