Gunco Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I drilled out the old pin from my gas assembly. I then installed my tapco piston and drilled a new hole. I went to the hardware store and purchased several different size "tapered pins". I drove the best fit pin into the piston and is very tight. I then grinded down what was left over. It still has the wobble like the original one, so I assume it is ok. Has anyone else used a tapered pin in there assembly? Also, do you think it will be fine using these?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,900 Posts
As long as the pin has a tight enough fit to keep it from backing out, you should be good to go.
Is there enough of the small end coming thru the carrier to peen over?
Might not be a bad idea, if you can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
7.62x39 said:
As long as the pin has a tight enough fit to keep it from backing out, you should be good to go.
Is there enough of the small end coming thru the carrier to peen over?
Might not be a bad idea, if you can.
Yeah....I dont think it will back out at all. I had one end coming out the other side and I dremmeled it off and then grinded it down. Little paint and its a done deal. I was just asking because this was my first one. Thanks for all the feedback from everyone on this issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,077 Posts
I think you should keep an eye on it for a wile just to be shure it wont back out. but realy that is prety standard for all parts of a new build.
the pin would have to come out before the piston could move.,what would happen if it fell out???? maby end up in the reciever,,, maby jamming something.... maby ejecting out??? neither one sounds too deadly. then you shurely would see the hole if you are keeping an eye on it. now what would happen if the piston started backing out? you may fail to close the bolt due to the piston hitting the gas block before the bolt can lock. I would think you would get some feel that something is wrong before it totaly unscrewed.. either way I can not see any major failure from the piston backing out... I know unforseen things happen but that is my feeling. I think you are fine but I have to admit I like a head on both ends. I make a rivet from a nail .. but I happen to like hammer forming parts. I think I should have been a black smith. hahahahha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,856 Posts
When using a tapered pin you should always use a tapered reamer just to make sure that you have solid contact completely around the pin. If you just drilled a straight hole chances are some of the pin doesn't have good contact and could work loose. I'd really keep an eye on it because you don't want something going wrong a the worst moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Toten Kopf said:
When using a tapered pin you should always use a tapered reamer just to make sure that you have solid contact completely around the pin. If you just drilled a straight hole chances are some of the pin doesn't have good contact and could work loose. I'd really keep an eye on it because you don't want something going wrong a the worst moment.

I will keep an eye on it. If it moves at all I think I will replace it with a better roll pin.
:thankyou:
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top