If they are the right material, they should work for all the trunnion holes. Even the bottoms if they aren't too long. Put a drop of locktite on them and press, hammer or drive them in.7.62x39 said:George,
I assume you are thinking about the two front trunnion holes, for kits that still have the barrel pressed in?
How could we find out if they would handle the load without backing out?
I keep thinking back to Winn's tooth pick experiment.
Winn,Winn R said:Gentlemen-- I like the Dickens out of this idea.
The opportunity to check the headspace, drill the old ones out, push the trunnion in the receiver, bang in some rivets and then rivet the rear lower; would be a wonderful way to go.
I'll get some, put them in, and run a case through it. That should give us some indication.
What's your thought on the right size?
Looks like a 10 or 12.
George--it never occured to me that they'd hire guys with good ideas to run nuclear power plants!!
I agree.gtbehary said:If they are the right material, they should work for all the trunnion holes. Even the bottoms if they aren't too long...
I was thinking more of the guys that don't have the rivet tools. This would be a simple way to get an AK together. You would need a kit, a receiver, some drive screws, drill with a couple of bits, a hammer and a can of black grill paint!! Maybe I am over simplifying it a bit!Winn R said:Max--I agree
The utility would be to avoid the pin removal, barrel removal and reinstallation mess.