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George,

I assume you are thinking about the two front trunnion holes, for kits that still have the barrel pressed in?

How could we find out if they would handle the load without backing out?

I keep thinking back to Winn's tooth pick experiment.
 

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Gentlemen-- I like the Dickens out of this idea.

The opportunity to check the headspace, drill the old ones out, push the trunnion in the receiver, bang in some rivets and then rivet the rear lower; would be a wonderful way to go.

I'll get some, put them in, and run a case through it. That should give us some indication.

What's your thought on the right size?

Looks like a 10 or 12.

George--it never occured to me that they'd hire guys with good ideas to run nuclear power plants!!
 

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I make the overall max shaft length .20"--about 3/16. Opps those aren't in stock-- if I got the 1/4" and ground them I'd lose the pilot.

Hummmm?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
7.62x39 said:
George,

I assume you are thinking about the two front trunnion holes, for kits that still have the barrel pressed in?

How could we find out if they would handle the load without backing out?

I keep thinking back to Winn's tooth pick experiment.
If they are the right material, they should work for all the trunnion holes. Even the bottoms if they aren't too long. Put a drop of locktite on them and press, hammer or drive them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Winn R said:
Gentlemen-- I like the Dickens out of this idea.

The opportunity to check the headspace, drill the old ones out, push the trunnion in the receiver, bang in some rivets and then rivet the rear lower; would be a wonderful way to go.

I'll get some, put them in, and run a case through it. That should give us some indication.

What's your thought on the right size?

Looks like a 10 or 12.

George--it never occured to me that they'd hire guys with good ideas to run nuclear power plants!!
Winn,
I got this off of another board! I think that they would work ok. Plus they would look real good!
 

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George, I think it will take a 12.

With an overall length, .20 in., the 3/16 would be perfect however they're not stock.

If the quarter inches were ground down, how would I put the pilot shaft back on?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Winn,
I think by beveling the leading edge of the screw slightly, you will be able to get it started just fine. Kind of like getting a barrel started in a trunnion. Once it starts in straight , just give it a whack!
 

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gtbehary said:
If they are the right material, they should work for all the trunnion holes. Even the bottoms if they aren't too long...
I agree.

I was just thinking that it's so easy to form a real rivet in the lower, rear position, even with the barrel in place, that the extra security it would offer would make it worthwhile to use there.
 

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Max--I agree

The utility would be to avoid the pin removal, barrel removal and reinstallation mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Winn R said:
Max--I agree

The utility would be to avoid the pin removal, barrel removal and reinstallation mess.
I was thinking more of the guys that don't have the rivet tools. This would be a simple way to get an AK together. You would need a kit, a receiver, some drive screws, drill with a couple of bits, a hammer and a can of black grill paint!! Maybe I am over simplifying it a bit!
 

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Jack--I called them earlier today to place an order and their system was down.

Might be the reason.
 

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Man, I might just have to hold off on my builds to see if this pans out, what length was the consensus?
 

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They left a message today however I didn't get an order in.

It looks like a quarter inch long and a number 12 screw.
 
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