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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
their was some intrest in my offer to share smaller quantitys of Kasenit. It is kind of like a small group buy, only I bought the product before I thought about shareing it. I said I would include the instructions coppied from the can with each share but now I think I will just put it up here for everyone , and this way their is no paper to get lost.
I will do my best to copy it exactly as it appears on the can. It looks like they have not changed their lable in 40 years. here goes

for mild steel
1 heat part uniformly to a bright red {approx 1650 degrees f}
2 dip or roll in compound to form a fused shellaround area to be hardened. reheat to bright red.
3 Quench immediately in cold water useing a scrubbing action to ensure maximum cooling rate.
to increase depth, repeat operation number 2 before quenching. to insure maximum of hardness reheat and repeat operation no.3

for tool steel
heat part to a light yellow glow. deposit in compound and leave untill its right tempering heat is reached. then plunge into clean cold water or oil. this will bring out the utmost limit in hardness and also prevent craching.

for deeper cases on mild steel
immerse part in compound useing an open, shallow receptacle. subject to heat of 1650 degrees f for a period of from 15 to 60 minutes, depending upon depth of case required. use dry tong to remove part from molten compounds. quench part only in clean, cold water.

Kasen it compounds are highly refined, non-poisonous, non-inflamitory, and non-explosive.

:thumbup1:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
to be honest I uesd this product on the point of a dead center I made. when I decided to see if it had done anything I was amaized how well it worked!!! and how easy it is!! A cheap hacksaw blade did not even scratch it!! no I was not pushing as hard as I can but even so it was very hard. great for our ejectors. and all you would need is a spoon full.
I hope this helps .
 

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I will never forget the first time I used this product (it works great). The quenching part is what I didn't expect...the loud "Bang" or "Pop" when I put the hot material into the water. Scared the crap out of me. Only thing I can add to the instructions is to "Wear Eye Protection" .
 

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I've heard good things about this product. My understanding is that it does case-hardening, although without the colors. Izzat right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the tip of the dead center I made and hardened was grayish, black after cleanup.
 

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I've use kasenit to harden the face of flintlock frizzens (the part the flint hits.) It's a great product and much easier than other methods of case hardening.
 

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Question: I've got a SAR-3, and my understanding is that if I ever need to replace the firing pin I'll need to fabricate one from an AK-74 firing pin and ensure that firing pin protrusion is 1.4 to 1.52mm. Here's the question: Are firing pin tips hardened? i.e., if getting the protrusion within acceptable range means filing/stoning the tip of the pin, does the tip of the pin then need to be re-hardened? And, if so, would kasenit be an appropriate means of doing so?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
kasenit will definatly help. if you get .030 depth from all around then that is allmost the entire pin . I would say it will depend on how much material you remove and if it gets hot when you do it. if retreating is needed at all.
mostly I am thinking ejectors , but fire pins are a good idea too.
 

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Thanks for the info, hotbarrel!

Will it also work as a Viagra substitute?
 

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Dzerzhinsky said:
Thanks for the info, hotbarrel!

Will it also work as a Viagra substitute?
Now that's funny.....LOL
 
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