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I tried adapting this: Power Case Trimmer for drill press - Forster Products

but went back to using a Lee trimmer case holder (for ease of grip) and a tubing cutter. With that combo I can do a rough cut down at the rate of about 10-15 seconds per case.

After forming, a final case trim brings the rough cut into spec.
 

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DOES ANY ONE MAKE A TRIM DIE FOR THE X25????? USE A PENUMATIC HACK SAW TO CUT THEM TO SIZE COUPLE SWIPES WITH A FILE AND YOUR DONE
 

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Yup, the Forster power case trimmer is expensive, I got lucky scoring a low miles used model for $25 several years ago. I have the Forster hand lathe, collets, etc from my precision loading days, so there was no extra cost to me.

What I didn't like about the power trim was that it was easy for the cutter to tear brass. If you do go the power route, I recommend using high rpm on the cutter and a light hand on the crank. Ended up being faster to use the tubing cutter method.

I did try to use a power saw at one time, but the cases are so small that for me it gets tedious to hold the case so close to a moving blade.
 

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I did try to use a power saw at one time, but the cases are so small that for me it gets tedious to hold the case so close to a moving blade.
no need to hold anything if there is a trim die made for this calibur just screw it in the press and cut or file what sticks out past the end of the die.. But does any one sell a trim die? im sure one can be ordered custom. Hmm now that i think about it I have the finish reamer so i could make a trim die. It would not need to nbe hardend if i put a hardend washer ont he top of it.

Im considering loading for this round at some point but Im still waiting on a few things.
 

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If they made a slightly too-long trim die, you could possibly use a hand-held saw to trim it, leaving something of a jagged edge that I would not want. Chucking the newly cut case into a standard trim die and using a file to finish it would work.

There's would be too much .223 case sticking out of a standard trim die to just file it, IMO - the .223 case is .87 inches longer than the 7.62x25 case.

I'm sticking with a Lee trim shell holder and a pipe cutter, with trim-to-length and neck reaming as the finish steps.
 

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Resurrecting this thread again, because despite what I said a couple years ago, I decided to give this a try just for shits and giggles, and as an exercise in self sufficiency. I have plenty of commercial 7.62x25 brass although most of it is loaded up with XTPs at the moment.

Picked up some apparently once fired commercial .223 brass at the range last year, and finally tumbled it up last night and tried my hand at case forming. The tubing cutter method mentioned above seemed to work okay, and the Lee dies had no trouble forming the brass... I use a Forster Co-Ax press, and it barely took any force at all. Some of the sites showing how to do this mention removing the entire decap assembly, but if there is a reason to do this with the Lee dies, I can't see it since they don't have an expander on the sizing die.

All of the sites talking about doing this mention the need for reducing case wall thickness, usually using an inside neck reamer. I bought such a reamer in .308 for my Forster case trimmer, only to discover that it is actually about a .311 reamer. It's made for some other operation wherein the necks are reamed prior to sizing, though for the life of me I can't understand why anybody would need to do that.

Using a combination of micrometer, small hole gauges, calipers, and some commercial brass, I determined that the reamer I actually need should be about .302" (letter N) to make the neck wall thickness the same as the commercial brass. Trimmed to the same length as the commercial brass, and after expanding, I should be able to use the same crimp die adjustment, and not have to worry about feeding problems due to neck thickness. Reamer is on order.

A couple other things I discovered... My Forster case trimmer is too long to trim 7.62x25 to length... I have to order a shorter base. That should allow me to ream and trim in one step. They make an adapter for a power screwdriver which I am probably going to buy, which would have saved me a lot of time trimming .308 cases a while back. I like that idea a lot better than the drill press setup that Forster sells.

Also, there is this site which shows all the steps in forming Tok from .223. He uses an outside neck turner to accomplish the same thing as I am doing with the inside reamer. He's also got a link to a miniature chop saw from Harbor Fright, which may be just the thing for doing a cleaner, faster job of trimming the cases to length prior to forming. You could rig a depth stop, and cut them pretty fast.

Who knows, with the power tools it may be possible enough to convert the cases over fast enough for it to actually make some sense.
 

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YOU DONT NEED A SPECIAL ADDAPTER FOR THE FORESTER TRIMMER TO RUN IN WITH A DRILL OR ELECTRIC SCREW DRIVER. USE A NUT THE TREAD IS NOT SPECIAL ON THE SHAFT. I USED A COUPLER NUT FOR JOINING READY ROD/ALL THREAD AN A NUT DRIVER IN MY SCREW DRIVER OR DRILL.

I HAVE ONE OF THOSE MINI SAWS FROM HARBOR FREIGHT IS CUTS FINE.
A MEMBER HER SELLS A ATTACHMENT FOR DOING 300 BLACKOUT THAT IS REALLY SLICK IT ALLOWS YOU TO RUN THE CASE THROUGH A HOLE AN THE NEXT ROUND PUSHES THEM THROUGH. IM SURE ONE COULD BE MADE FOR THE X25.

I HAVE A OLD 223 BARREL THATS SHOT OUT AN IM GOING TO CUT OFF THE CHAMBER AN MAKE A FIXTURE TO GO ON THE RH SIDE TO TAKE 223 CASES PERCISLY AN CUT THEM. IM WORKING ON ONE NOW FOR MY 6MM BRX VARIANT. A CUT OFF 223 DIE WOULD WORK AS WELL . A SIMPLE HOLE DRILLED IN A BLOCK AN ANGLEING THE BLOCK WOULD GET YOU CLOSE.

I HAVE A FAIR AMOUNT OF WELL SHOT BRASS FROM MY VARMINT BUILD THATS GETTING CLOSE TO THE ENDOF ITS LIFE. IM HOPING TO USE IT FOR A X25 AT SOME POINT.

MY PROBLEM IS FINDING PRIMERS RIGHT NOW
 

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VZ58 IS A MEAMBER HERE AN A GOOD GUY . HE MAKES AN SELLS A TOOL FOR HARBOR FREIGHT SAW TO DO 300 BLACK OUT . I BET IF IT WAS MADE SHORTER AN MOVED OVER IT WOULD WORK GREAT FOR 7.62X25 . THERE IS A VIDEO OF IT RUNNING .

IT HAS A SPRING LOADED BALL BEARING TO WORK AS DETENT ON THE RIM AN THE NEXT ROUND PUSHES IT THROUGH. I HAVE TO SAY ITS PRETTY SLICK .

300BlkTalk • View topic - Case cut off tool ***In stock ready to ship****

I THINK THERE IS A WAY TO INSIDE REAM AN TRIM IN ONE STEP ON A FORESTER .

FORSTER WILL MAKE A CUSTOM REAMER SIZE I THINK . ALL YOU WOULD NEED IS A REAMNER WERE THE PILOT GOES . ADJUSTING THE NECK THICKNESS TO BETTER FIT THE CHAMBER WOULD LIKELY IMPROVE ACCURACY AS WELL.

I HAVE A OUTSIDE TURNER FOR MY FORSTER AN I THINK I CAN TRIM A THE SAME TIME ILL HAVE TO LOOK.

IM DOING A 6MM BRX VARIANT THAT REQUIRES CUTTING 308 WIN CASES DOWN FORMING AN REAMING OR OUT SIDE TURNING AN THEN TRIMING SO ALL THIS STIKES CLOSE TO HOME AN IM WORKING ON WAYS TO SPEED THINGS UP AS WELL AS GET MORE CONCENTRIC NECKS IF I INSIDE REAM . SO FAR THERE NOT REALLY CONCENTRIC WHEN THERE RESIZED AN THE DOSENT CORRECT IT IF REAMED
 

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That trimming attachment is kind of cool. I already ordered the custom reamer from Forster... We'll see how long it takes them to get it here. I ordered the shorter base from Midway but it's on backorder for who knows how long [edit... found one in stock at Sinclair]. I think all I really need is to find an extra base, cut it down a little, and drill another hole in it. I went for the power adapter because it is $13 from Midway, and it fits the hex chuck on my power driver without any other screwing around. Looks like I got the last .30 Mauser RCBS mold that Midway had in stock. Harbor freight saw is ordered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I had no problem using a stock forester hand trimmer after taking off the stop collar.. it trims the cases down to X25 length in a few turns after i cut them with a tubing cutter to rough length... I also use the reject case 223 split or crushed..etc I had no luck inside neck reaming using a 308 reamer on the cases they were too loose.. after reaming.. for a 308 bullet... I'm not sure they even need reaming... B2B
 

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Thought I would post a picture of my case trimming setup with the custom .302" reamer and power adapter for my cordless screwdriver. It reams and trims in one step, very quick.

 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I tested out my reloads using 800X powder and Vectan BA-10 powder 110 gr 30 carbine projo it all worked out very well except the powder charge with the BA10 was too light.. I need to do a little more tweaking on the loading process had some trouble.. seating bullets straight with the Lee dies..
 

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B2B,

i know this is an old thread... but are you still trying to make TOK brass?

with the commercial TOK in brass reloadable available now.... is it actually worth doing this? or is it just because you can? i always understand that reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
yeah I know but old threads are fun to revive.. and these days it can be months and years between loading and testing,, I hate not having much free time.. not really trying I've done it and it's very doable easy..just takes a bit of effort and some tools etc..
sometimes it's a lot easier to just buy the brass and load, if you have the $$$.. but I'm cheap... I always enjoyed reloading, it's never been work to me.... it's always been fun..so it's time well spent to me.. and converting one brass to another use has always been an accomplishment for me.. I enjoy turning 30-06 to 8mm 243 to 308... a lot of my loading projects was done for in case /what if ! that stuff is no longer avail.. can I still make what I need.?? also if a 223 case is damaged split neck or crushed can I still use it for a tok rd?? 223 case are plentiful tok case are not..
 

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gotcha.

you & Greg Clark are the only 2 guys i know who actually reload TOK...

do you want me to send you some S&B TOK brass with some 5.56 to play with?

shoot me a PM & i'll throw you some in the mail.
 
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