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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a condensed version of this thread http://www.gunco.net/forums/f300/mauser-project-68868/ I'm leaving that one open for discussion of this thread.


All the Mauser talk here lately motivated Me to dig out a project that got side tracked a couple of years ago. This is my 3rd Mauser project which in no way makes me an expert on the subject, but I have picked up a few things along the way.

I had already blueprinted the receiver before the project got shelved. It's a 1937 Czechoslovakian VZ-24 (large ring Mauser)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Some of the tooling used for blueprinting

Mausers have two faces that the barrel seats on. The first is the face of the receiver, which gets trued by using a mandrel to chuck it up in a lathe
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This tool is somewhat similar to the one above. But this tool is spring loaded to apply pressure on the bolt for polishing the 3 locking lugs. You simply apply valve grinding compound to the lugs and work the bolt for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm going to pillar bed the receiver and free float the barrel.
You can see that the rear mounting hole comes slightly elongated to accommodate variations in receivers. The receiver needs a solid lock up there for best accuracy. Here's how to do it. The pillar also solidly locks the receiver to the TG. First you need to drill out that hole large enough to fit the pillar and the bedding compound. Then accurately cut the pillar to the correct length. I also opened up the area around the front receiver lug to allow for the bedding material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This pic shows the notch that must be cut in the TG to accept a trigger mounted safety.
You need to tape up the stock and apply the release formula to anything that you do not want the bedding compound to stick to.

In the 3rd pick you can see where I plugged the holes where I do want it to stick with silicone plugs before applying the release compound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I mixed up the acraglas and applied it to the front lug and pillar. Then clamped it all together. Now it needs to cure for 48 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bedding came out mint. Very tight fit now.

1) Receiver side (top) before bedding. You can see how big the front lug recess was and the elongated rear hole.

2) Top after bedding. Perfect fit on front lug recess and rear pillar bedded in place.

3) TG side (bottom) before.

4) Rear pillar bedded in place

5) Front TG hole. You can see how much larger the original hole was and how bedded hole is not even concentric to original.



This sucker is rock solid now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This is the fixture I used to mount the scope rail.
There are hardened drill bushings that fit into the holes you see on the top of the fixture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I used these to drill the stock for sling swivels.
They drill the pilot hole and face the stock square at the same time
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Firing pin assembly, ready to go into the bolt.

Left) Original Mauser firing pin, spring, bolt shroud with the military 3 position safety and cocking piece.

Right) Assembled unit with titanium FP, extra power spring and sporter style bolt shroud with no safety mechanism (which I moved to the trigger)

The FP/spring change makes a huge difference in the lock time on a mauser. The factory FP on these things is freakin heavy. Lock time is cut by over a third by going to the light weight pin and heavier spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This will give you an idea how big and heavy the Mauser firing pins are. Pin hell, these ought to be called firing rods. LOL
The titanium FPs cut the mass by over 50%
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Installing the barrel.

I clamped the barrel into the barrel vise using lead shims.

With the receiver set up in the receiver wrench, it's just a matter of torquing it down.
 

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