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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone give me some advice/details/pictures of a Tapco extension welded onto an AMD-65? I've heard it can be done with a MIG, and this is all I have to do it with. But, I'm not really sure what the legalities are on doing this. If anyone has done it, pictures would be great, or advice on how to properly due it. I would probably be using flux core wire (.030).
 

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The amd 65 that I have posted on this site has a tapco extender mig weld to the barrel. I drilled 4 holes in the part that screws onto the threads of the barrel and filled them with welds. It is much easier and a lot cleaner looking if you silver solder them on. I bought silver solder paste from brownells for 25 dollars, enough to do 25 + rifles. You just brush it in the treads screw on the extender and heat with a map torch. This is acceptable to batf. As a matter of fact, brownell's screwed up and sent me 2 orders of the paste. I paid for them both but I really don't think I will need the second one. If anyone needs one I will sell it for what I paid for it and ship it for free. ak'sr4me
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ak'sr4me said:
The amd 65 that I have posted on this site has a tapco extender mig weld to the barrel. I drilled 4 holes in the part that screws onto the threads of the barrel and filled them with welds. It is much easier and a lot cleaner looking if you silver solder them on. I bought silver solder paste from brownells for 25 dollars, enough to do 25 + rifles. You just brush it in the treads screw on the extender and heat with a map torch. This is acceptable to batf. As a matter of fact, brownell's screwed up and sent me 2 orders of the paste. I paid for them both but I really don't think I will need the second one. If anyone needs one I will sell it for what I paid for it and ship it for free. ak'sr4me
So the silver solder paste does require a Mapp torch? I had success heat treating my rails with a propane torch, but don't know much about the silver solders heat requirement. Is the silver solder irreversible? After the sunset of the ban, I would love to put a flash hider on and take the brake off.

"I drilled 4 holes in the part that screws onto the threads of the barrel and filled them with welds."

I don't quite understand what you did here. Could you please explain a little better? I did buy an extension and not a long replacement muzzle break for the -65.
 

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MAPP gas works better and heats the barrel and muzzle thingy's faster. Using propane without the Oxygen attachment will not provide enough energy to heat the entire barrel and device at the same time to achieve a good solder joint.
 

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I spun my extention on tight. marked the spot ware the pin engages the normal break. took the extention back off. cut a notch in the extention for the pin to snap into. screwed the extention back on tight. now the pin stickes out into the extention as normal. I put a drop of weld on the end of the pin conecting it to the extention. then I used quick blue on the entire extention. oh yes ,, i filed the drop of weld a bit to square it off and it looks prety much like the end of the pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hotbarrel said:
I spun my extention on tight. marked the spot ware the pin engages the normal break. took the extention back off. cut a notch in the extention for the pin to snap into. screwed the extention back on tight. now the pin stickes out into the extention as normal. I put a drop of weld on the end of the pin conecting it to the extention. then I used quick blue on the entire extention. oh yes ,, i filed the drop of weld a bit to square it off and it looks prety much like the end of the pin.

Is this sufficient HB? The letter above states you either have to have half the circumference welded or 4 equidistant spotwelds around the circumference.

How exactly do you use the silver solder paste? Do you rub it around the threads, heat, and then screw on? Is this reversible?
 

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You just spread it on the threads like you would if you were applying pipe sealer on gas pipe. Screw it on in the position you want it and wipe excess off. Then heat until you see it running out of the fitting and let cool. As far as being reversible, I really don't know but I will test it out and see. ak'sr4me
 

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a small point--

when welding half the circumference, it is possible to draw the break.

it's exceedingly interesting to have small pieces of the bullet going off in unknown directions. actually, it is more interesting when the direction is known by the impact.

but not suggested.
 

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well it appears that my idea may not be up to the standard. opps I guess I will be dooing some drill tap and welding . again oops :eek:
 

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I may need to send them off a letter myself gust to be clear. I was told it is OK to drill a hole in the break tap it put a set screw into the threads then weld over the screw. no way to ever remove it. OH BOY allways something. I can do this to the 65 without removeing the weld allready their if it is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hotbarrel said:
well it appears that my idea may not be up to the standard. opps I guess I will be dooing some drill tap and welding . again oops :eek:
HB, I was just curious. I really don't know these rules myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What is the general consenus on permanently attaching a brake or nut that will be the easiest to remove after the ban?
 

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I think we will see the goverment come after all our guns before the ban will ever sunset so I don't think it matters if anything we do is reversible. This country is leaning more and more towards a police state every day. ak'sr4me
"To disarm the people (is) the best and most effectual way to enslave them..."-George Mason
 

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welding should be all around, or on 4 points around the circumference. silver soldering is a better idea, and reversible. to reverse, heat and remove the brake, and hten apply a steel brush to the threads while the solder is still fluid. need to keep the heat on for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
justashooter said:
welding should be all around, or on 4 points around the circumference. silver soldering is a better idea, and reversible. to reverse, heat and remove the brake, and hten apply a steel brush to the threads while the solder is still fluid. need to keep the heat on for this.

I bet silver solder requires a Mapp/Oxy torch. How big does the bead have to be if you use 4 equidistant spots around the circumference. Could this possibly be reversible after the ban. Depending on how big the bead has to be, you could grind it down and file it away. Is this permissable when permanently attaching the nut that comes on the end of the barrel?
 

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They sell mapp gas tanks for under $10 at lowes (not propane, mapp) from the benzomatic compay, but where do you get the proper silver solder? The stuff they seem to sell melts in the 4-500 degree range.
 

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Brownells sells the correct heat range silver solder for about 25 dollars. It is called "fusion". You can buy it online and get it in a couple of days. ak'sr4me
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
meyerse said:
They sell mapp gas tanks for under $10 at lowes (not propane, mapp) from the benzomatic compay, but where do you get the proper silver solder? The stuff they seem to sell melts in the 4-500 degree range.

The expensive part it the attachment that goes on the top of the tank. Sure wish I could get one of these for cheap!
 

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I bought mine with the electronic starter at Meijers for 39.95. You do not need the oxy for silver solder. Just map gas. ak'sr4me
 
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