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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some time ago in another post I talked about using Moly in my guns. Now I?m like most others because I hate spending more than I need to for a product, so after using moly supplied by a friend for the last year I finely asked him where he got it. Got him at a weak moment, he was selling me his M1-Garand (Yah, I hated to take his Garand but he needed money) and without thinking he told me where to buy it cheap. The moly he?s been giving to me only cost $4.50 a pint and can be found at most any Hot Rod shop, it?s Schaeffer?s Moly E.P. Oil Treatment. Yes it?s for car engines but you take it and mix one part Moly to three or four parts Grain Alcohol, I use Everclear (Booze) because it?s easy to find. It won?t stay mixed so keep mixing it as you use it. It?s best to start a new gun with a Moly treatment first before you shoot it and then after each cleaning. Older guns just do the best cleaning you can (Electrolytic?) and then treat it. As far as the treatment goes, it?s just a matter of swabbing the barrel and any moving parts you want with the mix, then before you go shooting run a patch through with a little solvent to remove the excess Moly. The Moly will enter the pores of the metal and you?ll gain a little velocity and cleanup will be easier, you?ll also find less buildup of copper and lead fouling. If you?re into real target shooting you can also use a spray-on Moly on about one in four of your bullets to get a little extra zip. If you want to try the spray-on give ?Kano Laboratories? a try, they sell the spray cheaper than gun specialty companies do. In fact I?ve thought of trying to put together a Group buy on their Moly spray, but I don?t think there?s enough people that know about using Moly yet. Go to http://www.kanolabs.com/ and click on ?Molyfilm? in the second group. And take a look at their ?Kroil? also, I?ve used it on old carbon and fouling buildup and found it?ll loosen them up for removal and is great on stuck and rusted parts.
 

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I, too have found moly to be a superior product. I have used moly paste in my barrels immediately after break-in, and have never had any type of fouling problem. I handload, and use a dry spray-on moly to coat bullets (tumbler type too costly for my blood). Moly is the cat's meow for lubrication.
As for the Kroil, I first started using it when I worked in a sawmill, many years ago. If you can't get a frozen bolt off with this stuff, it ain't comin out. Kroil... the oil that creeps... it's the very best penetrating oil bar none!!! Midway USA had it on sale recently for 3 bucks a quart! Excellent bore cleaner, too... I know some oldtimers who use nothing but.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think the Midway sale was for an 8oz.can of Kroil because I?ve gone to Kano Lab?s on the net and they don?t sell it in quart size cans. The 8oz. size sells for under $5 from Kano and $6.75 at Midway.
Some of us think that WD-40 is a perfume, so Kroil will take a little getting used too. I?m not fond of its smell, but I do like how it works. I found an old gun with a heavy carbon buildup and it knocked the carbon loose in a half-hour and it just wiped off. When I buy an old Mauser or Mosin Nagant I soak the barrel with Kroil before I clean it and shoot it the first time. Then after cleaning it again I start using Moly. I?m about to start using electrolytic cleaning on my old guns so that I can get all the fouling out before starting with Moly. I?ve read and been told that the electrolytic cleaning method for guns works very well on old guns like I have.
 

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I believe I stand corrected... I summonsed a Midway frequent buyer flyer, and it is 8oz.
At the sawmill, we used to get it a spraycan, and a one gallon metal can. We actually would thin out dark cutting oil with it and use that for drilling/tapping/cutting. Don't know why, but it seemed to work better. I'm actually fond of the aroma of kroil... I'd soak my tired feet in it if it didn't stain the rug so badly (please don't ask why I know this).
I wonder if you took some of that kroil, and mixed it with the moly oil, and warmed the metal a bit to open the pores... if that wouldn't help suck more of that moly into the metal? I like your idea of the moly treatment. It does reduce fouling by quite a bit, and it seems that any fouling you do get comes loose alot easier.
 
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