Some time ago in another post I talked about using Moly in my guns. Now I?m like most others because I hate spending more than I need to for a product, so after using moly supplied by a friend for the last year I finely asked him where he got it. Got him at a weak moment, he was selling me his M1-Garand (Yah, I hated to take his Garand but he needed money) and without thinking he told me where to buy it cheap. The moly he?s been giving to me only cost $4.50 a pint and can be found at most any Hot Rod shop, it?s Schaeffer?s Moly E.P. Oil Treatment. Yes it?s for car engines but you take it and mix one part Moly to three or four parts Grain Alcohol, I use Everclear (Booze) because it?s easy to find. It won?t stay mixed so keep mixing it as you use it. It?s best to start a new gun with a Moly treatment first before you shoot it and then after each cleaning. Older guns just do the best cleaning you can (Electrolytic?) and then treat it. As far as the treatment goes, it?s just a matter of swabbing the barrel and any moving parts you want with the mix, then before you go shooting run a patch through with a little solvent to remove the excess Moly. The Moly will enter the pores of the metal and you?ll gain a little velocity and cleanup will be easier, you?ll also find less buildup of copper and lead fouling. If you?re into real target shooting you can also use a spray-on Moly on about one in four of your bullets to get a little extra zip. If you want to try the spray-on give ?Kano Laboratories? a try, they sell the spray cheaper than gun specialty companies do. In fact I?ve thought of trying to put together a Group buy on their Moly spray, but I don?t think there?s enough people that know about using Moly yet. Go to http://www.kanolabs.com/ and click on ?Molyfilm? in the second group. And take a look at their ?Kroil? also, I?ve used it on old carbon and fouling buildup and found it?ll loosen them up for removal and is great on stuck and rusted parts.
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