Gunco Forums banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,077 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well I am thinking of painting my first AK. I see all kinds of options. even duplicolor car paint. I would prefer not to buy paint through the mail and pay shipping. how about some suggestions for paint that I can just buy local. I am going to bake it on and want it to stay when I spray cleaners. oh yes BLACK. I do not think I will find Alumnihide in wallmart or the local hardware store. thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Hey man, I've been searching archives and reading every post since I started my 3 projects in September. I've spent at the minimum of 5 hours a night learning(600 hours total). I've literally read those thousands of posts when the AWB was still in effect. Before people started the most expensive way they used Rustoleum BBQ spray and baked it at 250 degrees for 4 hours. They have their Molycoat, etc. but I finally got it down to a science. First you sand 100 coat and leave a rough surface. Then you use naval jelly cause it leaves a thin parkerized finish. Then BBQ paint that handles 1200 degrees. It'll scratch but what tool doesn't? That's the keyword 'tool'. That's all a gun is. It's not a piece of art, a gemstone, a replacement for love. It's the most efficient TOOL for killing. Why try to make a silk purse from a sows ear?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,151 Posts
There's also that 1200 degree ceramic engine paint they sell in Auto stores. People seem to be having good luck with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Can you spray over the ceramic engine paint when you do touchups? I've read about that to but was afraid that when I screw the finish up, as I always do, I'd have to strip it to reapply. That's what shied me away from epoxy stove paint. Now I do have a can of black woodstove finish out in the garage. That stuff will stay black when heated to a red glow. I'll coat a scrape of sheet and see how it holds up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,077 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SNAZI
good question.
also THANKS for shareing what you have found out. I will pass on the jelly and park it in a hot acid bath before I paint. If we do not get an answer on the touch up with the ceramic paint I will just use the BBQ paint, I have it here allready, that is a pluss.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
The beauty, and genius, behind the AK design is that it was made so indigenous people could manufacture it locally. I dumped my ARs when I got into this to finance my projects. I have a nephew in Iraq, and contact others on another board. They prefer the AK over their issue rifles. The only high tech tool I purchased was a dial micrometer. Tried a vernier but you couldn't calibrate it. I'm doing everything the hard way on my rifles. Have a 6 foot fire stack built out in the field to use a leather charcoal casehardening of one receiver. Another will be damascus with at least 1000 layers. Last a Tapco flat(needed a template and why waste it?) Read a post about using stove steel to build receivers and have an electric I'm scrapping for one. I'm doing that project at the akfiles forum. With the leftover parts I think I'll make a 9mm blowback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
I found out about this paint from Tantal. http://www.tantal.kalashnikov.guns.ru/

Use a light dust coat of:

Dupli-Color Low Gloss Black : DE1634


Then paint over another light dust coat of:

Dupli-Color Semi-Gloss Black : DE1635


Bake on 400deg for 1 hour.

Makes and EXACT replica of Russian paint though not quite as durable. This paint is 500deg ceramic engine enamel.

The thing I really like about this paint is the cans have a much higher quality "pin type" paint head that lays out paint with the accuracy of a air brush. This eliminates allot of waste and extra paint going everywhere but the rifle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
I used a flat black spray paint with 3 coats and I like the finish but Im afraid to install anything until I know it wont get all scratched up real easy. I bought a can of that 1200 degree barbecue paint and Im going to put 1 coat on and let it cure in a warm room for a couple hours and then let it cure for a week. Do you think this will work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
What paint did you use? A flat black?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
I think Im going to try some of that barbecue 1200 paint tomorrow on my underfolder im working on. Its not like im taking it to war or anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
It cost me like $17 for 1 can of alumahydeII paint. I just cant see spending that kind of money for a can of spray paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
I will look tomorrow for that and try it then. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
I noticed over at Gunsnet a few guys have been using Rustoleum Appliance Paint. The epoxy stuff. They bake at 300 for a gloss finish or 400 to bust the gloss down a little. I'd still use the 'BBque stuff cause it touches up without looking obvious, but I guess the epoxy stands up to the selector scratch real good. If you are friends with a Sherwin-Williams dealer the Prolane industrial paint is supposed to be similar to Duracoat. The stuff they usually sell in 5 gallon buckets. Hell, I painted my Harley with the 94 cent Color Shop spray can crap from Walmart. They wanted 1200 dollars at the shop to paint it 'right'. Cost me $5 and still picks up good looking snatch. If in the end the one with the most toys wins, then I'll save my money and buy more toys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,038 Posts
For a flat kinda look, the duplicolor 1200 degree ceramic works good. you can bake it in the oven. if you have a bulgy kit with the textured paint, use the rustoleum textured black, #7220. it matches perfect.

someone posted they used the appliance epoxy and when the barrel heated up, the paint turned soft.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top