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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What would be the best overall size for a parkerizing tank.
 

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It really depends on the size of the parts, do you want to do barreled actions or smaller parts. The chemicals are expensive so matching tank size to the part will cut down product needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
right now i'm only going to do AK parts. I was kind of figuring 6x6x20 for the barrels, and a smaller one for the other parts. Does that sound about right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that sounds like a good idea..i guess i'll have to make 3 of them..haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i think i will just start small and make more as i need them...
 

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It sounds like you are able to make you tanks like I am. I made a small tank 3x4x12 and then two that are 3x4x34 that way I can do small parts and receivers and also be able to do barreled FAL receivers.
 

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The idea size is 6x6x36
You need to consider all future park jobs.
You might get a enfield later that the barrelled action is 34 inches.

I just got a tank from hotbarrel.
It is heavy walled tank. It is 36 inches long and the tank is not a rectangle.
It is 3 inches at the top and 4 inchs at the bottom.

You need heavy walled if you are gonna use OPEN FLAME.
You can get away with the light duty stuff if you use electric heating elements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alfajim, yea i can make almost anything i want at work..as long as i do it on my own time..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
DrugRunR what do you call heavy walled?
How thick are yours?
I was thinking of using 11 ga which is almost 1/8
 

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I need a tank a little longer. I want to park FAL barrel and receiver together. You said you would make one. I got the video, looks kinda straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
whatever size we need i can make..as long as it will fit in my truck..
 

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if you can fab your own tank then the proper size tank will change with what you are going to cook. yes at least 3 tanks is a good start. I have found myself cooking all kind of parts now that I am set up. tools at the fd even motorcycle parts, and some parts for my dozzer. like any other tool once you have it you will find many uses for it. It works great and is prety easy to get good results. As for heavy guage,,, it sounds like what you have will be just fine. personaly I want my tank to be rigid, and I do not want it to go "TUNK" when it gets hot and warp out of shape. this could be very bad if acid were to spill out or fly when the tank popped.
I know, I know , TUNK is not a word, but you will know it if it happens due to a flimsey tank. again it sounds like you are all set.
oh yes do you have a blaster to clean with?? or are you going to do something else?
 

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WC846 said:
DrugRunR what do you call heavy walled?
How thick are yours?
I was thinking of using 11 ga which is almost 1/8
have to ask HB.
He made mine
My other tank is very thin (18 to 20 ga)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hotbarrel..i am going to take my stuff to work and do the blasting..we have a sand blaster and a glass beader. so i can pretty much do anything i want there..
 

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thanks for asking,
sorry to hijack this thread so I will be short. my hand is MUCH better I have what seems like a few layers of dry skin now. it is not as thick or tough as the other one. still redder that the other one with very clear line ware the red stops. it is very sensitive to texture. my biggest complaint is the big nuckels hurt deep inside. I am told they are still swolen and even that will get better. the only scar is ware I put on a glove too soon and it took the thin new dry skin back off. all in all much better. I would say about 80 % back. again thanks for the consern. the hotbarrel
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I just ordered this stove for heating the park tanks..i got the 3 burner, it is 31 inches long and has 3 separate burners on it...probably cook up some good burgers too..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well if we can't find an expert, we'll just have to cook us up a mess of burgers
 
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