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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


The flat bucking bars with the machined recess for the rivet head; I have problems keeping their edge from marking the receiver sidewall when they are placed between the rivet head and lower plate.

The obvious solution is to not put them there and accept the rivet heads having a flat spot.

What am I doing wrong?:confused:

 

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Winn R said:


What am I doing wrong?:confused:

Everything?



Seriously,

Is the edge of the bar marking the receiver or the rivet? Did you get two bars with two diffferent dimples in each? Try covering the bar with masking tape. Maybe try one with a shallower dimple or you could use JB weld to build up the inside. If you want, tell me the dimensions of your rivet heads and I can make one for them. I tried to make them work for all the rivets, but each manufacter's are different.

Also, you may want to check that the receiver is firmly clamped while riveting and is not trying to roll when pressing the rivet.

The best results seem to be when using a buck with a dimple slightly larger in diameter than dome of the rivet and with a depth of about .015 less than the height of the rivet head.
 

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Also, a fubar I did the first time I used this fine jig.. The anvil part was a little big to fit in the inside grove for the center front rivet.. Thus it was pushing on the trunnion and not the rivet, this caused the receiver & trunnion to be pressed into the bucking block..


Plinker, the only problem I have is using the jig to do the counter sinking.. Any thoughts on that??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mike-- the press sits back in a dark corner. I know that was the case at least once, left side center, because I could see where I hit the front piece of the feed ramp.



Plinker762 said:
Everything?
Frank-- why should this be any different than everything else? And, it turns out you're right.

However, I have not been wrapping the bar in masking tape. Nor have I made sure that the rivet does not completely fill the recess. The rivets are from Bob's group buy.

You mean I'm actually supposed to use those large pieces of angle to secure the receiver in place? and no longer trust my steady hand and steely eyesight? which is probably the heart of the problem.

And I bless you and your gadget regularly. It makes a nearly impossible task doable. Thanks

 

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Winn

I got one of those drafting table lights.. The one with the clamp base and long adjustable arm.. I mounted it to the top of my press, and I can adjust the light right down next to the work area.. Makes it real good for seeing stuff...
 

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I always clamp the receiver when using this fixture. It keeps the receiver & rivet from moving while pressing, holds the receiver tight against the trunnion, and allows the setup to be done outside of the press where visibility is better. I also check the clearances of the adapters in the trunnion before I use them and adjust the setscrew as needed.

I've had good luck countersinking the holes. What problems have you been having? I have been clamping the receiver when doing this too. The front holes in particular since they are not on the centerline of the barrel hole and the receiver really wants to roll over. I recently did a Global receiver and only real problem is that the receiver is really too thick for the countersinks in the trunnion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Frank--your advise:

Set up away from the press in good light

Solidly clamp it down

Check clearances

Works

Mike-- Now have a drafting light mounted over the press. Much better than Braille method.

Thanks Gentlemen
 

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i got a bar imprint also on my first build..gives it personality. i found i did better not using the clamps, easier for a hack to hold it than all that setup stuff
also, thanks plinker for a great tool that works as advertised
 
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