[Co7t]

I'd like some pointers on polishing stainless steel using a dremel rotary tool. I have some of that abrasive polishing compound (#421) and felt polishing wheels on a mandrel I've been practicing on. I still can't get that bright polished look I want.

First off, what's the best way to apply the compound to the felt wheels? The compound is pretty hard so I've been running the dremel w/felt wheel in the compound and found that making the felt a little wet helps - the compound coats the wheel evenly. I then start polishing the SS at a medium/low speed and I'd slightly wet the steel occasionally (like spit shining boots). That has worked the best for me, but I'd like more suggestions on doing this.

Any dremel gurus here who'd like to offer pointers/suggestions?

Co7t

 

[Sangrun Hunter]

One piece of advice I can offer is to get a motor and 6-8 inch buffer wheel. Unless they are small parts the larger wheel works so well.

Also: Are you using the grey oxide stuff? Many places do not carry it for some reason? (You find red and teh white stuff) It's the very fine stuff for polishing to mirror finish. Don't forget steel wool is a great way to end a polish job for an extreme finish.

 

[Co7t]

I'll eventually get a motor, but for now I am mainly working on small parts. The stuff I use is reddish (rustlike) in color. I have heard of using steel wool and will give that a shot as well. What's the best method to finish it off with the steel wool? I've never polished anything except my boots - I wish it was as easy 'cause I can get them boots to a mirror finish in no time...

 

[Sangrun Hunter]

I would go to one of the local hardware stores or maybe order online the aluminun oxide? I wish my memory wasn't failing me at the moment. Try that stuff instead because steel wool can take forever.

You can use sand paper too 400 , 600 and then on up if you go to an autobody supply hosue they have paper that goes up from the usual 600 stuff you find in Home Depot. My neighbor gave me some 1800 recently and you can get a mirror finish. I also have some 2000 for polishing fiber optics that I have kept around for years. I used that to polish my trigger parts.

 

[Co7t]

Hmmm...I'll look into that. I just tried using some steel wool and it works really great! I just buffed it as-is; should I use oil or anything else with the sw for a better shine, or is dry buffing all that's needed?

Thanks!

 

[Sangrun Hunter]

I usually buff with light oil. I'll have to post pics of my polished very lightly blued custom 1911.

Forgot to add: stainless will rust if not treated. It's not the same stuff your dinner ware is made out of. The Nickel content is lower on gun stainless steel to keep it from being brittle.

 

[Toten Kopf]

7.62x54R...

I just can't beleive what I just read, stainless steel corroding! DAMN RIGHT!!!!

You are the first person that I can remember that has made that statement, most think that, 'I have a stainless steel mojo felwaper and I don't need to worry about corrosion'. But you hit the nail on the head.

 

[Sangrun Hunter]

TK,

My Dad was a machinist, architect, general builder, engineer, and gunsmith along with few other things.

I learned a lot along the way and still do to this day from him. He's one of those guys that rattles off Rockwell scale hardness specs in PSI numbers.

He's a member here too, so Dad if you watching, thanks!

 

[bigblock]

I had a Colt 1991A1 made of SS rust on me. I keep it in a pistol bag and did not look at it for about 6 months and found it with very lite rust on the grip safety. I know oil my guns on a regular basis. I no longer have that pistol. :thumbsdow

 

[mauser88]

Birchwood Casey makes a polishing cloth and lead remover. I use it to clean my S&W 686. I mainly use it to clean the cylinder. As a result my cylinder is quite a bit shinery than the rest of the pistol.