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One piece of advice I can offer is to get a motor and 6-8 inch buffer wheel. Unless they are small parts the larger wheel works so well.

Also: Are you using the grey oxide stuff? Many places do not carry it for some reason? (You find red and teh white stuff) It's the very fine stuff for polishing to mirror finish. Don't forget steel wool is a great way to end a polish job for an extreme finish.
 

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I would go to one of the local hardware stores or maybe order online the aluminun oxide? I wish my memory wasn't failing me at the moment. Try that stuff instead because steel wool can take forever.

You can use sand paper too 400 , 600 and then on up if you go to an autobody supply hosue they have paper that goes up from the usual 600 stuff you find in Home Depot. My neighbor gave me some 1800 recently and you can get a mirror finish. I also have some 2000 for polishing fiber optics that I have kept around for years. I used that to polish my trigger parts.
 

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I usually buff with light oil. I'll have to post pics of my polished very lightly blued custom 1911.

Forgot to add: stainless will rust if not treated. It's not the same stuff your dinner ware is made out of. The Nickel content is lower on gun stainless steel to keep it from being brittle.
 

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TK,

My Dad was a machinist, architect, general builder, engineer, and gunsmith along with few other things.

I learned a lot along the way and still do to this day from him. He's one of those guys that rattles off Rockwell scale hardness specs in PSI numbers.

He's a member here too, so Dad if you watching, thanks!
 
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