[hcpookie]

http://www.victornet.com/productpages/toolblack1.html

Don't know about it, but the MSDS shows it contains Nitric, Hydrochloric, and Phosphoric acids, so this is more than a coating since it appears to etch the metal.

It is actually cheaper in the MSCDirect catalog than at this link... pages 1742 and 502.

Anyone heard of it?

 

[Toten Kopf]

I have some, isn't really that good. It kinda works on some metals but mostly the finish is a little blotchy. I've had to re-do pieces with the Birchwood-Casey blueing pen with better results.

Just my experiance.

 

[hcpookie]

Do you think it is good enough for a paint-over base?

 

[Toten Kopf]

Do you think it is good enough for a paint-over base?

I really don't use it for anything anymore. If it wasn't such a hassel I'd send it to you so you could try it out. I don't reccomend it for anything. Just haven't had any success with it.

 

[BKBrno]

Do you think it is good enough for a paint-over base?

This from their FAQ:
Q: What is the chemical composition of the black finish?

A: A crystalline deposit of cupric selenide.

That's basically the same thing as cold blue. I don't think it will cut it as a paint base.

 

[Dzerzhinsky]

Naval Jelly, a phosphoric-acid based rust remover, leaves a light gunmetal grey phospate finish. I have no idea how well it would work as a base before painting. I do know it's a very thin coat, because you can readily remove it with Semichrome Paste metal polish [which then gives a good finish that, at least on the bolt carrier of my SAR-3, isn't too shiny yet isn't flat like the finish left by Naval Jelly.]

 

[blfuller]

There are several metal preps that are used in the automotive refinishing business. I use one made by PPG, it is called DX520 Metal Conditioner. It is sold by the quart or gallon, bought a gallon for about $20. After bead blasting you drop your parts into it and use a brush and keep your parts wet with it and it forms zinc phosphate on the parts. It even has some detergent in it to degrease. Excellent base for Gun Kote or Moly Resin.

 

[hcpookie]

Naval Jelly, a phosphoric-acid based rust remover, leaves a light gunmetal grey phospate finish. I have no idea how well it would work as a base before painting. I do know it's a very thin coat, because you can readily remove it with Semichrome Paste metal polish [which then gives a good finish that, at least on the bolt carrier of my SAR-3, isn't too shiny yet isn't flat like the finish left by Naval Jelly.]

I use naval jelly as a base finish for paint on several builds. Pleased with the results. The longer you let it sit, the thicker (and better) the phosphate layer. Too thin and paint won't stick that well. Works well for a cheap paint base IMO.

 

[Tobacco Man]

How do you apply the naval jelly? Before you sand, or after?
Thanks, T M

 

[trikerjay]

later jay

 

[COYOTE3]

Sounds promising! Let us know how it works.

 

[hcpookie]

i was at lowes today and saw this product http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm the prep and prime. it sounds alot like kg k-phos. has anyone tried this yet? i plan on picking some up tomorrow to see how well it works.
later jay

Seen that used in the past on several forums with success. Be sure to drop in the steel wool.