I'll share my experinces... really simple as it is jsut a long AK build.
Did mine on a Coldsteel receiver shell. Start with the trunion, and work back to the mag release/trigger guard and then use the top cover to fit the rear.
I used my mill to round the back of the receiver extension plates to fit the buttstock, but it turns out it could have been done with just a grinder or dremel. I made sure mine were actually squared, and aligned with the top of the receiver to ensure they looked correct.
The rivets are longer than average, so the AK long rivets won't work. Recommend 3/16" rivets you can buy from McMaster-Carr that are 1.75" long and trim to fit. You can use the 1.5" rivets but you'll need to grind the flat of the rivet head to make the shank longer and reduce the size of the head. And it will just be long enough to barely fit. Better with the longer trimmed to fit.
Bolt hold open is easy but tedious. Use a 3/8" square bar and you'll have to drill both sides for a blind rivet hole (I think this is similar to 1919 rivet installation). Cut the notch in the middle for the engagement tab using a dremel and some small files. Be patient, I've done two of them and they both work great! You can fabricate your own tab if your kit doesn't have one, and use a light spring. Something a bit heavier than an ink pen spring. Honestly don't remember what the spare one came from, I think it was a left over spring from some electronics gear. Remember the spring needs only to hold the tab down during recoil, and the magazine spring must push it up.
Dremel the notch for the spring (a half-circle "chute") and the retainer cross-pin. I used a nail peened over for the crosspin. Recess or file flat on the front so the magazine won't hit it.
Fit the center support last. Make it as close to the magazine as possible to ensure good engagement with the tab. Once there mark the rivet holes and drill. On the scope rail you have the one rivet that is supposed to clamp onto that. I had problems on both of mine with getting that installed tight. You really need to use a punch and hammer it down. The problem is you'll inevitably bend the support due to the notch, so you'll probably have to hammer/bend it straight again for the hold-open to work properly.
The alternative way will be to use a long rivet that is offset enough to minimize interference with the retainer, then cut the notches and holes AFTER the rivet is installed while it is in the rifle. This seems infinitely more difficult but may be better for you. So far the rivets seem to be holding well using the punch method...
The rails are much bigger and on the Coldsteel you can cut them down to the proper shape. I left mine larger for more spot welds.
If you install the scope rail "properly" there will be a really small rivet at the front that will install through the rail. It isn't necessary IMO since the spot welds are just as strong. I did it on one and had to really cut it down small.
And speaking of rails, itis the worst part IMO. You need to remove the crap left over from the demil process and make sure your receiver is also smooth to allow for good spot welds. I found out too late that my barrel is situated such that I needed to adjust my scope rail by a noticeable amount. At first I thought my receiver was fit wrong, but after careful inspection it looks as if the receiver is OK. It appears to be the barrel itself is angled downward in the trunion just enough that it throws off the scope if you mount the scope parallel to the top of the receiver (like you are supposed to). It could be bent, but with a bore light it looks OK. SO other than tear it apart and rebuild, I just installed the rail crooked. I won't take a picture of it without the scope
Other than that it shoots fine... just looks funny without a scope installed.
So I recommend using a bore sight to help with sight installation. Use C-Clamps and vise grips to hold everything in place then mark the receiver... spot weld, then test again with the boresight. When you're confident it is aligned, spot weld the crap out of that thing and be done with it!
Speaking of rails, you'll need to notch the rail to allow an SVD type mount to fit. The locking cam will hit the rail without a notch. Compare an SVD rail to a PSL rail and you'll see what I mean. Easy to do.
The spot weld on the muzzle brake is easily removed and filed clean, and the bayo lug can be rebuild by welding a huge ball of weld and then dremel/file it to shape. As if you really need a bayo on a scoped rifle :rofl:
Ilya has some primo reference pics in his gallery - search for ROMAK and you should find them:
Romak-3_receiver_046 - Gunco.net Gallery
3
