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PSL build

1821 Views 22 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Coils
So my next build will be a PSL.. What it the deal, how does one, press the barrel out without doing any damage to the mouth of the chamber?? Any trick you guys have learned?? B2B
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I made a little tool out of a brass fitting. Will find the picture and link it.

Here it is....
The AK Forum - View topic - PSL parts kits are sold out!

post linked above.
Figured it out tonight. I found an old compresion fitting for a gas line and taped out the mail end to fit the bolt. the female end had a large enough hole to fit around the cone but it was a little to long and fat to fit in between the locking lugs. I cut about 1/4 inch off the end and left a stub sticking down. Then sanded the out side until it fit between the lugs and sat nicely on the barrel face. stuck it in the press and out it popped. " I love it when a plan comes together ;-)"

Below are the pictures of the piece.

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I used two nickels and the power steering pulley puller to remove mine, it came out fairly easy compared to some of the AK barrels I've done.
The main thing is be careful with that flange on the chamber end.
+1 on what coils said. That little ridge or ring looking area of the chamber face is what the cartridge headspaces on. I stacked 2 pennies and it cut through 1 of them.
I just used pennys with no drama. Has any one tryed to instal the bolt hold open? It is notched through the receiver kind of a pain in the *** to install. Just demilling the scope rail was a pain
I'll share my experinces... really simple as it is jsut a long AK build.

Did mine on a Coldsteel receiver shell. Start with the trunion, and work back to the mag release/trigger guard and then use the top cover to fit the rear.

I used my mill to round the back of the receiver extension plates to fit the buttstock, but it turns out it could have been done with just a grinder or dremel. I made sure mine were actually squared, and aligned with the top of the receiver to ensure they looked correct.

The rivets are longer than average, so the AK long rivets won't work. Recommend 3/16" rivets you can buy from McMaster-Carr that are 1.75" long and trim to fit. You can use the 1.5" rivets but you'll need to grind the flat of the rivet head to make the shank longer and reduce the size of the head. And it will just be long enough to barely fit. Better with the longer trimmed to fit.

Bolt hold open is easy but tedious. Use a 3/8" square bar and you'll have to drill both sides for a blind rivet hole (I think this is similar to 1919 rivet installation). Cut the notch in the middle for the engagement tab using a dremel and some small files. Be patient, I've done two of them and they both work great! You can fabricate your own tab if your kit doesn't have one, and use a light spring. Something a bit heavier than an ink pen spring. Honestly don't remember what the spare one came from, I think it was a left over spring from some electronics gear. Remember the spring needs only to hold the tab down during recoil, and the magazine spring must push it up.

Dremel the notch for the spring (a half-circle "chute") and the retainer cross-pin. I used a nail peened over for the crosspin. Recess or file flat on the front so the magazine won't hit it.

Fit the center support last. Make it as close to the magazine as possible to ensure good engagement with the tab. Once there mark the rivet holes and drill. On the scope rail you have the one rivet that is supposed to clamp onto that. I had problems on both of mine with getting that installed tight. You really need to use a punch and hammer it down. The problem is you'll inevitably bend the support due to the notch, so you'll probably have to hammer/bend it straight again for the hold-open to work properly.

The alternative way will be to use a long rivet that is offset enough to minimize interference with the retainer, then cut the notches and holes AFTER the rivet is installed while it is in the rifle. This seems infinitely more difficult but may be better for you. So far the rivets seem to be holding well using the punch method...

The rails are much bigger and on the Coldsteel you can cut them down to the proper shape. I left mine larger for more spot welds.

If you install the scope rail "properly" there will be a really small rivet at the front that will install through the rail. It isn't necessary IMO since the spot welds are just as strong. I did it on one and had to really cut it down small.

And speaking of rails, itis the worst part IMO. You need to remove the crap left over from the demil process and make sure your receiver is also smooth to allow for good spot welds. I found out too late that my barrel is situated such that I needed to adjust my scope rail by a noticeable amount. At first I thought my receiver was fit wrong, but after careful inspection it looks as if the receiver is OK. It appears to be the barrel itself is angled downward in the trunion just enough that it throws off the scope if you mount the scope parallel to the top of the receiver (like you are supposed to). It could be bent, but with a bore light it looks OK. SO other than tear it apart and rebuild, I just installed the rail crooked. I won't take a picture of it without the scope :D Other than that it shoots fine... just looks funny without a scope installed.

So I recommend using a bore sight to help with sight installation. Use C-Clamps and vise grips to hold everything in place then mark the receiver... spot weld, then test again with the boresight. When you're confident it is aligned, spot weld the crap out of that thing and be done with it!

Speaking of rails, you'll need to notch the rail to allow an SVD type mount to fit. The locking cam will hit the rail without a notch. Compare an SVD rail to a PSL rail and you'll see what I mean. Easy to do.

The spot weld on the muzzle brake is easily removed and filed clean, and the bayo lug can be rebuild by welding a huge ball of weld and then dremel/file it to shape. As if you really need a bayo on a scoped rifle :rofl:

Ilya has some primo reference pics in his gallery - search for ROMAK and you should find them:

Romak-3_receiver_046 - Gallery
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When I did mine, a couple years ago, CFS was selling Romy receivers, they had the center support/BHO block already installed. It wasn't hard to install, just ackward to hold everything in place until the rivet/pin was installed, I used a roll pin since it didn't come with the rivet.
I don't know how the Nodak receivers are?
I got my kit's barrel pressed out it was easier than a Romo G the barrel pin was not as tight either.. I used a small washer the same thickness as the lip on the face of the barrel and put a brass washer over top and pressed it out easy as pie.. I'm still waiting on the receiver but I got a military one on tap if i want to get it.. B2B
Do any of you guys have the barrel compnent sizes for the psl? Or would anyone mind measuring their barrel? I would love building a psl but mybe use as many yugo parts as I love yugo looks, I have both spare m76 barrel parts and m70 parts. Thanks guys
I don't have a barrel that has the components off but my buddy was thinking of doing the same thing using a M70 gas block so he could make an adjustable gas block. Unfortunately you would need to relocate the gas block back as it is larger than the PSL gas gas block. Also the PSL is stick think barrel where as the M76 is nice and heavy so I tink you would be out of luck unless you rechambered a RPK barrel and reprofiled it.
Thanks pj I've heard psl barrels had that pencil profile so I had a feeling an m76 gas block would be to big so maybe an m70 would work with less mods. I've seen pictures of the psl's breech face and it does look odd compared to ak's. Is the base of the case fully supported by chamber wall just with a much thiner chamber wall where the barrel is milled to clear the case extractor? I'm just going of the memory I have of a picture I saw a couple months ago of a psl barrel chamber end. I might be better off getting a yugo rpk barrel and having it rechambered and reprofiled from the gb forward (using a yugo rpk hg retainer) anyway I'm not trying to hyjack this good psl build thread.
Another question if anyone can answer, does anyone who has a psl also happen to have any bren mags? If so does it look like bren mags could be moddified to be used without moddifications being done to the rifle so a guy could have high cap mags for goofing around while still being able to use regular psl mags? Also would someone be able to post a picture or know where one is on a psl's bolt face? Is the pocket for the case shallower than a rimless ak bolt since its headspaced on the rim? I can't find any place that sells just a psl bolt as I already have a psl carrier with piston I picked up reasonable at a gun show (if I build my own yugo type psl I just need a bolt) but those cfs kits are described as numbers matching, I've been scared away from psl kits after seeing pictures and hearing about some of the other psl kits on the market being butchered during demill. I'm thinking I'll take a chance on one.

Oh one more question (not trying to ramble too much guys) the muzzle threads, are they the regular ak 14mm lh threads? (Visions of the us made svd fh copy are dancing in my head). Haha anyway thanks guys
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Here are the barrel component sizes from one of my PSLs. I might add that ALL of the components galled on removal, and the crosspins for each were the tightest I've run across yet.
No biggie on the galling on mine because I cut the barrel to less than 16" and most of the galled areas either will be turned down or will be on the cut part. Finished barrel will be 16 1/4 " including a perm attached FH .

Component IDs

Bayo lug...............................................581
Gas block.............................................612
L.Handguard retainer...............................673
Barr. Trunnion......................................907

Barrel journal dia.

Bayo lug.................................................582
L Handguard retainer...................................667

Muzz. thread is M14 X 1 LH
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holy crap that is a thin barrel, thanks loner42
All the romo Ak I've built had the pins HFS tight. The AK-74 wire folder's barrel pin was so tight I thought I was going to turn the pin into a rivet. When it let loose it sounded like a gun shot... I almost thought I was going to break the 20 ton shop press.. I'd guess it took 19 tons it was dam tight.... my PSl kit pin was tight but not bad I'd say like the G models. I'm sill waiting on my receiver from TGI they are slow shippers... But I have the kit all demilled and ready to rivet, I got a rivet set from AK builder, so I'm ready to roll... B2B
If you want a rivet set made for the PSL you should hit up waffen werks on the akforum. they have custom rivet and a FCG retainer plate they built for their PSL's It is a real nice PSL set. Last i looked akbuilder didn't make the PSL specific sets.

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I think they had some kind of combo deal for them and I got two sets.
Ak builder has PSL rivet sets, I ordered one but I should have ordered two, as I have two kits now.. they just include two larger rivets.. in the set, kinda pricey @ 15 bones but that's life in the gun world.. I demilled my second PSL kit tonight, a little different kit than the first this kit had some monkey demill it and he cut through the pistol grip area of the butt stock with a cut off wheel and cut 90% through the pistol grip screw... and the flash suppressor is a pin on design and not a screw on break.. I guess the threaded muzzle PSL are a lot more rare than the pin on... My receivers are at the FFL I'm building a NDS and an original Romo military receiver so I'll pick them up soon.. B2B
Will the greenmachine barrel press work on a PSL?

I used the habor freight 12 ton press, you have to put the barrel beside the pressing rod and use the cross bar to press it.
Will the greenmachine barrel press work on a PSL?

You just need the Yugo barrel press and longer threaded rods. According to Green Machine 3ft. long rods from your local hardware store will do the trick.
jreifsch80, I am looking to buy a M70 or M64 gas block, if u know anyone who has one.
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